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Hell-Razor

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Everything posted by Hell-Razor

  1. Hell-Razor

    I dont think but maybe

    Well PROBLEM SOLVED! It was shitty soldering that did it. Well its not really solved but I am looking for something different besides using screws to carry the power through the box wall -- something that has a positive and negative terminal on it and its like something you put in the wall to the box.. I cant explain it better than that. My old old old system that I bought from a "we put it in your car" type store tossed one of those on. I just cant remember what they are called - it usually has red and black knobs on it that you can either screw in to hold the wire in place or its spring loaded.. I searched for about 45 minutes at the hardware store here in Madison but dont remember nor could I find one close.. Any suggestions on what I am trying to remember (or what they are called) would be sweet! EDIT: look at the picture on this page.. You see the red and black spring loaded switches on the back? thats what I am looking for
  2. Hell-Razor

    I dont think but maybe

    Sweet. I didnt even think about using a DMM. I assume if its bad it will show something lower than 3.x (assuming its a 4 ohm). Or higher? Or nothing at all? Is there anything else that may be if those show all good?
  3. Hell-Razor

    I dont think but maybe

    Yes pushing on the cone, sorry.Isnt it bad pushing on the cone while its playing? I know not to do it at like full power but couldnt that make the magnet come in contact with the coils? Also, does anybody know what to look for? I am going to pop the woofer out again tomorrow to see if I overlooked anything. Nothing looks bent compared to mine.
  4. Hell-Razor

    I dont think but maybe

    Could it be blown even with no resistance while pushing in the magnet manually?
  5. Hell-Razor

    Smell and strange dust

    Just wanted to say hey guys, long time to talk to. Been super busy and that first vid I posted was a pos, second coming soon! Ok now on topic -- When I first got my system running I noticed there was a smell to it. Not a bad smell but just something strange; best I can describe it is the smell of a fresh built, just turned on computer. The reason why I relate it to this is because I just re-built my computer today and notiecd this is how it smells. I have never smelled burning nor have I ever heard the woofer "bottom out". The excursion looks alright to my knowledge for the lowest song I have put at it. I do like to ride around though with the volume up pretty high, sometimes the highest I ever want to go for a song or two. Now I have felt the magnet (by touching the dust cap) right after playing the woofer at max volume for me, its warm but in my opinion nothing too bad. I mean my cell phone sitting in my pocket for an hour or two gets hotter. Anyway this smell -- is there something to be worried about? I have checked all the connections and I would say those are the hottest parts of the entire systen. Nothing has melted and the amps are still cool to the touch. This smell has always been around sense I have put this system in. It usually comes after a few songs (depending on volume and where I got my knobs at) but never gets worse. My guess is its just the amps (starting) to warm up. (maybe I havent pushed my system hard enough if the amps are not even warm yet). With this dust as well. I noticed that the curled ends (at the very edge of the speaker) are getting this strange white dust on it. Its not hitting the back of the seat or anything so I have no idea about this. I just kind of ignored it because the speaker inspected by eye looks likes its still bran new. Other than posting here, I have not seen or heard of anybody reporting this. Really thinking about it now I think it may be something to do with the temp sound deadoning i tossed in there.
  6. Hell-Razor

    Dust cap coming off?

    I was just doing more research on boxes and whatnot and came across Heath and his . Anyway, what is up with his dustcap? Is that what it looks like before / after you blow it off? I know that's a prototype and its not officially released "yet".
  7. Hell-Razor

    2003 VW Passat key parts?

    I was in a bar fight a few weeks ago and I got my VW Passat key cracked pretty bad. The key ring also got taken off when it slammed into the ground. Is there anybody out there that would sell the casing for the key? I know the dealers want something like 400$ for a new key. All the mechanical stuff still works and nothing is really bent, just the plastic outside is cracked. I have taken this key apart several times before and after to know enough that the plastic casing is just a case, nothing in it is permanent. I have googled with no luck though. Any help is appreciated.
  8. Nope. I am positive on this one. I even thought that as well but I am adjusting the subsonic. I just set it at a hair less than halway becuase halfway on a 3500D is 35hz.
  9. Well I just started today really trying to tweak everything on my amplifiers to get everything working correctly. I started with my big amp setting the gain with a DMM. all that went well but I noticed that my subsonic may have been off. So I popped in a tone to 33hz to try and make it cutoff at that point and its not. I cranked it up to 60 hz (has a range of 10-60hz) and it is still not cutting that signal out. Is it possible I have a faulty SSF? I have a SAZ-3500D and a SAX-50.4
  10. Hell-Razor

    In about a year

    Id say a 2010 VW Passat. The Germans are awesome auto makers and I have owned two VW Passat in my time. One (year 94) went at 245k miles and I am sure that the accident it was in is what did the engine in =P (some idiot side swiped it just in front of the A post while it was parked at 3am). Plus the 2010 VW passat looks very classy and fast at the same time. You can get it with any stage turbo you want.... Even if it may be out of yoru price range a hair, I would still go fo it. My 2003 VW Passat right now is still running like that day we got it with 100 miles (now has 85k).
  11. I am so confused right now. I started playing a 33hz test tone, put the SSF at 10hz and I measured the output terminals with a DMM. It came up as 6v. so then 6 x .707 = 4.24200. I then went and put the SSF at about where it looks like it should be on the range and it showed that the voltage went from 6 to 10.25. What the... Its supposed to go down, not up.
  12. Very nice. I did not know this, I thought it was a "brick wall". Anyway, why .707? I have never seen this number in car audio. But then again I am a novice towards this kind of stuff.
  13. Thats what I figured. But you dont know 100% until you ask. I think ill just set things at zero and re do my amp gain.
  14. Currently on my HU there are a lot of options for bass and sub settings. I currently have the bass setting to zero and the sub settings at -20 (lowest it can go) and on my amp I have set my gain using a DMM and reading the "how to set your amp gain" post. Now I was just curious if by having the subwoofer to -20, and having my eq for anything below 50hz set to zero or lower (on my hu) is hurting the performance at all. Currently, the gain on the woofer is about 70% of the way up and its not clipping. Do I set the sub (lets just say) at 0 and same with the built in eq for anything below 50hz? Will this improve anything? And yes I would re set the gain on my amp. EDIT: I forgot to mention my HU is a Pioneer DEH-P7100BT
  15. Hell-Razor

    Dubstep

    I hope this isnt a stupid question but here it goes... I have watched a good amount of videos on clipping a signal and what to look for on a o-scope (square waves). I was just thinking what if the producer makes the waves square in production? I know a lot of dubstep artists do this. I do listen to it on my system and some djs / artists do make good low bass. Just wondering if this will just amplify the clipping of the already square signal made in production and damage my system (like clipping any other signal). <- go to about 1:40 to about 2:04 to see what I mean. He will show the signal...examples: <-- bass is WAY squared off in this songhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnKw236ZQkA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0QznJ2cjKg
  16. Hell-Razor

    New box designs

    /bump
  17. Hell-Razor

    New box designs

    Alright guys here it goes... Trial 2! for my woofer box.... My current design is 31.5w, 22d and 16.5t. I don't remember the wood thickness but I found a scratch paper and I only made my box 3.5cuFt... Which is the smallest they recommend for a level 5 15". Why I did that? I have no bloody idea.... Anyway I re measured and I can add a little more to the box -- roughly 2.25 inches on top, and 7.5 inches on width. I would like to try and reduce the dept the most I can because as of right now I cannot fit more than one battery back there. I would like to be able to lay my amp down nice and neat and have the bat next to it. I will be trying to design my own again but I would love to see people chiming in with recommendations. Pretty sure I want to tune it lower than what I have now (31.5hz) to about 28hz. I would like to add a slide to change the tuning to the mid to upper 40s for competitions. I like having massive output on the lows and seeing my car vibrate to death, probably the reason why I want to tune lower than what I have currently. A rough sketch I came up with (for the complete box) is: 39W, 18.75H, 12.25D with .75inch thickness MDF. This would bring me to just over 4 cuFt (4.02425). Any yays or nays to trying to design a slider with this? Anything jump out screaming "noooo"? My issue right now is that I don't know of any good ways of figuring out a slider to change the tuning.
  18. Hell-Razor

    DP 21" Daily?

    SAZ-3500D!
  19. Hell-Razor

    New box designs

    Alright, I think I got a new design coming along decently. I think a DC Level 5 15 is about .21 displacement so thats what I about based this design off of. I will be building this box out of 3/4 MDF, 39" W, 19" H, 15" D. This will give the box 4.5cuFt of airspace without displacement. The woofer and port will be firing forward COMPETITION: The port will be 5" W (17.5 inches tall) and 16.5" D tuned to 46hz with a total volume of 4.23 cuFt. Will give me a square port area of 87.5 DAILY POUNDING: The port will be 1.5 "W (17.5 inches tall) and 16.5" D tuned to 26hz with a total volume of 4.8 cuFt. Will give me a square port area of 26.25. i THINK this has to be between 60 and 120 though =/ What do you guys think? The only thing I am not sure about is the competition box. It seems that with a port that big it will reduce the cuFt of the box to about 4 not including the displacement from the woofer... EDIT: I just realized the daily pounding port may do two things 1) I dont have enough port room 2) I may get port noise
  20. Hell-Razor

    New box designs

    Right now with my 3.5cuFt box its holding very very very well (its 3/4 MDF). I put a mirror on it about 5 minutes ago and a laser to see if the box is flexing. Its not but it sure is vibrating....I will fiberglass the box, I plan on doing that and something on the inside to make it nice and smooth. I will tackle that road though when I get to it.But I am up to bracing or moving to 1.5 MDF like you recommended. Its just I am pressed for space is all...
  21. I have been reading around on some build logs and people are saying that they have an amplifier that is "clamped". What does this mean? I have been googling around with no luck (so far).
  22. Hell-Razor

    Amplifiers clamped?

    Clamping the DC side of the amp would tell you how much power the amplifier is drawing from the electrical system, not outputting to the speaker. When someone "clamps" an amp they are measuring the output side of the amp, which is AC. They normally keep a DMM on the power input side to monitor what the input voltage is dropping to, but that's not how they are deriving their power output figures. Anyways.....many people fall under this delusion that they are performing some meaningful act by "clamping" their amplifiers. As Crazy said, they connect their amplifier to a load (normally just a subwoofer in most cases) and play a test tone. They then use a DMM to measure the voltage output from the amplifier and a clamp meter to measure the current on the output side of the amplifier while playing the test tone. They then use basic ohms law to calculate power (Voltage * Amps = Power) and the impedance of the load (Voltage/Amps = Resistance). As I previously mentioned, most people will also use a DMM on the power input side of the amplifier to monitor the voltage drop the electrical supply is experiencing. The problem is, 99% of the time people are simply wasting their time. It's a mostly meaningless endeavor that has been perpetually (and incorrectly) promoted on the internet as having actual relevance. There are several problems with this method. Along with being able to question the accuracy of the measurements themselves for various reasons (accuracy of the devices, the type of measurement being conducted, the varying impedance of the load, the varying stability of the supply, etc), many people try to compare these "clamp test" results to the manufacturer rated power. The problem is, the manufacturer's rated power is specified at a certain distortion level. Nobody performing these clamp tests are measuring distortion. One could make any amplifier appear highly underrated very easily in one of these "clamp" tests as there is a total disregard of distortion. Wow, that actually makes a lot of sense.
  23. Hell-Razor

    steve's 02 vette 6 speed

    How did you not see that pig behind you? Was he in one of those unmarked public cars? Not the police cars with no markings but one of the every-day cars on the road you see now and again.
  24. Hell-Razor

    New box designs

    Hrmm. It looks like I would need some tweaking on the design.... I would need some crazy port. Well I guess its obvious I need a helping hand.
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