Jump to content

Hell-Razor

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    472

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Hell-Razor

  1. Posted

    I thought so. I just know there are some nono ways unless its burp... etc. I figure I would at least try and see what people think before actually doing it.

     

    I was also thinking about ports and I dont think I was very clear on that end - Say I tuned a 8 and a 6 to the same frequency, would I notice better output to a point with the 8?

    0

  2. Posted

    Vehicle : 2003 VW Passat
    Location in the vehicle: Trunk
    Space available (Length x Width x Height): w1- 39, w2-42, h1-15.5, h2-19.5, d-25
    Subwoofer make and model: Custom, similiar to the Sundown X but more motor force, excursion and lower fs
    Subwoofer Size:12
    Number of Subwoofers:2
    Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Up for suggestions but thinking about aero to save space
    What type of music do you like?: Chopped and screwed, decafs low stuff (about 18-35hz)
    Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday
    Tuning Freq (Hz): To be determined - probably around 26
    Volume : 5-7 cubes depending on tuning, port and bracing.
    Questions: I want to first start out saying I blew my amp and I am in the market for a new one. I am thinking about getting a dc 7.5k, taramp 8k or maybe a banda amp but I hear they have a ssf set at 30hz. I ran a Soundigital amp for about 3 years and loved it but I made a mistake and blew it (it was my fault, not the amps). I dont need to get an amp this big but to play as low as I want, I may have to.

     

    My first real question is firing for the sub. I have done all sorts of sub firing positions and I like into the cab the best. I tried a dc lvl 5 x1 m1 on a 4500 facing the trunk, even with two layers of second skin, it sounded like i was rattling a fair amount. I turned the box around and I think it sounded much better and louder. I have also sealed off and fired both sub and port into the car (2 xl m2 12s). Now it was loud, I just dont feel like it was getting the lows like I want. I believe for that box I was tuned to 35 then swapped out the port from a 8" to a 6" for 30. I think it was better but still not where it could be. I have also tried not sealing off but firing forward and honestly I havent noticed a difference. I have tuned my 12s box from 36 to 25, I think right about 26 was the best. I currently have a custom 15 in there tuned to 27 and I think its more brutal as well as louder than my 2 12s tuned to 26.

     

    I was rolling around the idea of doing subs forward, port drivers side. I know that makes you meter higher (dont care about that) but the passenger side of my trunk is weird and it has a much sharper \ angle than the drivers side does. I was thinking about porting with a 8" aero, but I am not sure how much room I would want to leave between the port and the drivers side "wall" of the trunk {I was aiming for 8 inches when I was thinking about designing a box).

     

    0

  4. Posted · Edited by Hell-Razor

    Hey fellas,

    After being away for a while from the car audio scene, a friends prototype actually grabbed my attention and I decided to get one. The only downside to this is it is super long (around 17 inches). If any of you guys remember CoDrive, then you know pretty much about this sub. For those of you who do not, it is a double motor, double vc design for one sub. It uses 10" spiders, custom machined sundown motors for 8 layer flat wound 3" voicecoils. This beast will have a good amount of excursion and kill the lows. With that said, it will weigh in at about 100lbs (doh).

    I was looking at designs, messing around with some myself, playing with bbp (that thing doesn't like dual vc woofers much), talking to people on facebook and whatnot. I think I have come to the conclusion of firing forward with the sub on passengers side, port 90 degrees halfway back on the box to drivers side. now a 6" aero is a hair too small at like 9.8 in per cuft and a 8" is too big so I may think of trying to find some well piping 7" and make my own.

    What do you guys think? My trunk dimensions are 40w, 21"d and 18.5h at front and 17.25h at the rear.

    EDIT:

    Forgot to add what I want out of this sub.. I just want the lows. I had 2 15s in (probably) too small of a box and was doing 52s. I would like to tune around 30, no higher than 35. I will be using my soundigital 8000.1 as well seeing as the rms on this sub will be about 7k.

    0

  5. Posted

    I have talked with rob and rusty from dc on everything to do with my upcoming design for summer 2012. I am going to go with 2 xl 12s on two SAZ-3500Ds, backed up with juicebox batteries and a 220amp excessive amperage alt.

    The box will be a little smaller than recommended seeing as DCs love smaller boxes when they are overpowered. Now my question for everybody that I cant seem to get a hold of is port area, would I be better off giving it a little more (Kerf port btw) space (say 18-20sqin per cuft) or the "normal" range of 15-18sqiin per cuft? My goal is to get decent numbers in the low 30s. I do not have the depth either for aeroports. A 5" aero though would be 21 sqin per cuft which I think would be too big, and a 4" aero would be 14.5, which is too small.

    I have been running my designs through bbp and using torres calculator to back up my designs. It seems the smaller ports are louder but more peaky than the larger ones. The larger ports seem to be able to play lower and more effecient but not as loud. And yes I do understand this is just a model and the cars frequency will change it, I will test and build and test and build some more but I want to see if I have a good handle on this before I start pumping out miltiple boxes on a termlab.

    Anybody have suggestions as well on replacing boxes? I think im going to use just different size / length ports on different faceplates. I think I will try 3.25, 3, 2.75 and 2.5 inches wide and see what plays louder at lower hz.

    I will be sealing off the trunk from the cab and firing both subs and port into the cab.

    0

  8. Posted

    What are your space restrictions?

    39"w, 18.5h, 17"d

    Couldn't you fit 3 12s, have more cone area then 6 8" drivers, and spend less money?

    that box, not including any displacement would be about 7 cubes. I have not looked into the 12s option. I would like to fire forward and have not looked into any 12 options that would handle ~ 1k a pop. I dont think I would have enough room for port and woofer firing forward.

    0

  12. Posted

    Before you buy anymore equipment, do you know why your Level 5 blew?

    Yes sadly. A few things to be honest

    1) I somehow hit "loud" on my cd player without realizing it. No idea how long its been like that so I was clipping

    2) The box was too big

    3) I lowered the SSF and decided to play chopped and screwed stuff hitting at 24-28hz.

    Mike of SoundSplinter is nearly giving away his remaining Orphan 8's (RL-i 8 cousin).

    I know I talked to you Denim about this earlier. The only 8s I can find from soundsplinter are running at 200$ a pop

    If I was in the market for some 8s, these would be in my top choices.

    OP, Do you have some space restrictions that aren't allowing you to use 10" or 12" drivers? Reason I ask, less drivers with more cone area = similar if not more output and less costly.

    Yeah I do have space restrictions. Instead of going for pure power (lvl 5 15) and calling it a day, I think I want cone area instead of power this time around. I would like to try and keep this as cheap as possible without getting like 20$ woofers from best buy or something lol.
    0

  14. Posted

    After rocking a DC lvl 5 15" now for about three years or so it has finally gone on me. I blew the voice coil the other day and well its time to move on... I know I can recone it and probably will do that and sell it, its time for something different.

    I am thinking about 6 8" subwoofers for about 300 square inches of cone area. Seeing as I am limited on trunk space, the box will equal about 4.3 cubic feet and that will give me enough room for my amp and bats. With the lvl 5 on full bore, I was staying in the mid to lower 14v so I figure I am good on electrical for now. I will be pushing these 8s with a SAZ-3500D and probably wire the subs to .66. If I do that I will have at least one more battery put in the trunk.

    My idea is for the woofers to fire into the cab, a 8" flared port 18.5 inches long will give me a tuning of about 36hz and seal it off from the trunk. This isnt going to be a spl box but more of a ground pounding box.

    My issue is I am unsure about what brand to go. DC has always been good to me, but I hear the SA-8s are brutal in themselves. What do you guys think?

    0

  15. Posted

    Alright I know I havent posted anything on here in a while but let me bounce and idea off of you guys...

    I bought a d3100 recently and upgraded my grounds and I am about 13.9v on full bore depending on my rpms. Now I am pushing a dc lvl 5 15" on a SAZ-3500D. My question is - do I buy another 3500D and put 7k watts (not sure what clamped would be) on it? Its a d2 woofer so I think its possible to wire it down to 1 ohm using 2 amps..

    My other idea would be to get rid of the 15 and get 2 dc lvl 5 12s and another 3500D.

    In order to power both my ideas I would need another 3500D (or sell it and get one massive amp) and another 3100. Oh and I also have a 200 amp alty with the big 3.

    0

  17. Posted

    Well I have been invited to Google+ and am very interested in trying to explained my circles. So I figured why not post on here and see where things go. For those of you who dont know about it it seems to be better than facebook right now - in a fact that its much easier to share and ask for information, pictures, comments, help, video... etc. It also seems to have better privacy options than fb because it allows more strict options.

    0

  18. Posted

    Hey guys whats goin on? Seeing as so many of you are in the Phoenix area just wondering if I could get a demo or two or three. Last time I was in town I kind of met BanginGMC and I told him I would try to contact him next time I was in town but no answer... I also met Mark and TuffGuy40 at a competition. Anybody up for showin off their system? Ill be in town until Tuesday afternoon and have access to a car and can get to pretty much anywhere in Phoenix. I am staying in Mesa and just send me a PM and I will see what I can do.

    0

  20. Posted

    Just wondering where I should connect my stinger voltmeter.. I read some how-tos on it and it seems pretty simple but I haven't really seen a defined place to attach it to. Should I toss it on the front battery (under the hood) or in the trunk with the bat back there and wire it to the drivers seat?

    what?

    okay so lets start over!

    lets say you have 2 batteries, one in the back and one in the front. these batteries will be hooked up in parallel so the voltage, in theory, will be the same at any point in your setup. but we know that if you have your amp hooked up to the rear battery it will draw more from the rear then from the front battery, so with this being said it will be safer to hook up the stinger voltage meter to the rear battery rather then the front battery that way you will get a more accurate, and a better idea of what your actual voltage is that your amp is seeing. and this will be the best way for you to monitor your voltage getting to your amp!

    and like the last guy said you could also hook the voltage meter up to your amp and go from there.

    also be warned you will have to calibrate your stinger meter with a DMM (digital multi-meter)! this is simily done by first hooking up and setting up your stinger meter 100% then hooking a DMM up to your battery(batteries) and getting a voltage reading and comparing it to the reading on your stinger meter. if it is high you will have to adjust the Philips screw driver pod which is yellow and is located under the screen cover.

    you will do this calibration test first with the car on, and then again with off, then again on! make sense? I hope this helps! if not ask! and if it still doesn't ask again! lol

    Makes sense. I kind of figured that but what you said before is they should be (or almost) the same. Do you know if I can extend the wiring on the voltmeter by just soldering some more of the same gauge onto it so I can watch it from the drivers seat?
    0

  24. Posted · Edited by Hell-Razor

    I have a 200 amp alt and a battery similar to the 3100 in the drunk. I am looking to upgrade it as soon as my taxes get back to me (get another battery in the trunk and a 400 amp alty). I dont play it loud for long periods of time and I do know that I need to give the amp more power!

    0

  25. Posted

    I think I am moving from and L port to aero ports o I can get a little bit bigger box. I am trying to use this tool except I cant seem to get what I want. I am looking for about a 4.75 cuFt box (including displacement and bracing) with a depth no longer than 18 inches. I would like to get around 35hz for daily and 45-50 for competitions. Any suggestions? Help?

    The box is going to hopefully be 38w 17.5h and 18d which comes to a little more than 5cuFt and shuold be around 4.75 cuFt with displacement

    0
×