sadistic

if it not butyl then it another type of rubber like your saying, but very similar to butyl. yup i have heard the stories of elemental designs and their lies too there customers. also a good reason not to support them too. second point: i have laid down a base layer of a sound deaden-er then a thick mdf layer to stop vibration i bolted it to the frame. so that is a real true point that it is not the best for spl but we still use it go figure.

i guess your right but it maybe a butyl asphalt base which boils down to higher butyl content. cause they call it a rubberised compound no telling what it is i got the e dead which they claim is butyl too. i think it butyl, i got ribon sealer from auto zone which is 100% butyl same stuff as the e dead i got so i am guessing it depends on how much butyl is in it.

fat mat is butyl rubber just like e - dead and all the others they have up dated there stuff since the sound deadener show down was written good bit of info there as for fat mat verse e dead and dynamat fat mat and e dead are basically the same products. but the e dead i had unstuck from my trunk lid it was to heavy and did not want to adhere in the Michigan sun we have here. but ya there was a noticeable in crease in db's when finished witrh the e-dead. if you think don's method will work to do a spl car go ahead and do it that way. this is why i went e dead or fat mat helps so you do not crack the roof of your car with sound pressure when the metal starts to oil can and become annealed before cracking. ya the e dead stuck to the roof of the truck but not the car maybe i should have cleaned it better?

check these out i do not think you will fit a cvx maybe a cvr because of mounting depth i own the tp210b tuned at 47 hz older model Bassworx - Industrial Revolution 2009 so i am not saying you can't just saying it will be difficult

it has side curtin air bags in the v-dub so there not much room for any thing let alone tweets right ???

Here are some speaker I have been looking at have not had a chance to hear them yet so keep that in mind. mybe you can see what you can find over there in these brands and see what they sound like. as you can see i prefer silk tweets. but you may not. Mid bass 4 inch Parts-Express.com:

good points i think they said in the pre build that the amp was close to 1,500+ rms which if it is would make about 400-500 rms at 4 ohm maybe. but any ways ohm out the speaker terminals for the box make sure the final is not 4 ohm but 1 ohm and yes if your going to run it at 1 ohm you need up grade that wiring to 1/o like i got to do. this is why thus far i have not hooked up my amp yet and really want to. if it is one ohm check the gain etc.. settings btw here are some specks. SPECIFICATIONS: •1200 x 1 watts @ 1 ohm •600 x 1 watts @ 2 ohms •300 x 1 watts @ 4 ohms •0.153v - 5.6v adjustable input sensitivity •RCA Line-Out Jack •15 Hz - 250 Hz Frequency Response •> 90 dB S/N Ratio •4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current) •50 Hz - 250 Hz adjustable 12dB Low-Pass Crossover •15 Hz - 50 Hz adjustable 12dB Subsonic Filter •0 or 180 degree adjustable phase switch •0 - 12 dB adjustable bass boost with 60 Hz center frequency •Wired Remote Control unit included •5x 30 Amp Internal Fuses •17" L x 10.6" W x 2.2" H •MSRP $499 USD The SAE model Class-D amplifiers are only suitable for operation up to 15.0 volts -- they are not stable on 16v electrical systems like the SAZ Class-D amplifiers

that sloppiness is what i am talking about. as in does not seem to hit all the same notes. now the 8 will have a different tone then a 18 if the spl is different. like a 8 with a 83 spl compared to a 18 with a 94 spl but that all depends on were it was measure at on the hertz scale you could measure the 18 at 40 hertz were the 8 was measured at 75 hertz . i think it is sloppiness and tone the guy needs more tone and less sloppiness which was cause by under powering that sub in the first place and putting it in the wrong box. what happen i think made the box to big to handle the power better and it went boomy/sloppy. he could keep that sub but i do not think it will move enough air to please him and get a bigger amp to make it sound better. but i have seen plenty of one sub systems get loud but will it work for him?

you got the same problem i had with my subs mostly now a day's there more gear towards rap! and boomy boxes. would you use two subs ? i am running two jbl power p 1022's in a gold wood box from part's express.com the sealed two ten box it like 36 bucks right now it has .85 cuft per sub and the jbl's require .75 per sub which the little extra space make them be have awesome. i am running them off a Sony temporarily till i get the third for my sae1200d v2 and build a box for it. to tell you the truth any think i have found with the low spl in the 85 - 89 at 2.83 volt has been dull one noteish kinda like rockford fostgate punch stage 3 's if you know the subs there real flat and lifeless in sound out put. personally have not heard fi's q's but am content with what i got. btw if your good at adjusting gain you could run those jbl's off the saz 1000d. any ways in that box there not boomy there punchy and tight and very responsive to rock and metal. jbl powers retail for about 100 each 2 10's or 2 12's for 149 each i think would equal what your after. i got mine on e-bay so check there if you like em or the idea.

damn tough break have you considered sealed more or less lately. most of all for the sound quality i prefer the sealed over the ported i find there is a slower response to the music like bass drums etc that a sealed helps on that a ported does not i think it called a slower transducer response. for the ported when compared to the sealed and ya rap does sound good in some boxes depending on how build. as for which i would go 12's or 10's also what about just rebuilding a sealed enclosure for that 15 reason i say that is not sure what it's in. i got to do it for my mach 5 ixl 15.2.2 i am a big fan of sealed / band pass boxes and just think the sound quality is better in them. though i do not think a band pass will fit so what about sealed? some time's you just got to forget what the other guy said that loud is best and go for sound quality because you like the music.

I'm not adding any airspace. The displacements are subtracted from the volume and for reference the displacements I am talking about are like bracing(which there is none in this instance) and sub. Your off because your calculating to much port displacement. 1. The physical port is only 21" long. So you have an extra .021ft^3 2. You are accounting for 6.25" of port wall that is not there. So then you have an extra .0352ft^3 So your 2.2795ft^3 + (.0352+.021) = 2.33ft^3 that I calculated. you know what your totaly correct i am off. just do not use the re calculator that often so i was thinking that the port length was 22 long when it fell short a few any ways good point man.

i think you forgot to take in to affect the .75 wood thickness of the port instead of a 2 inch opening like the calculator says it would be 2.75 x 13x22 which would make the box 2.27953125 cubic feet with the displacement of port .455 and sub of .16 and the box inside dimensions of 28.5x13.5 x 13 =/1728 = 2.89453125 before displacements. sorry did not calculate the port tune yet . When a port bends you can't figure the area the port takes up separately then subtract it from the box volume. For example the way the calculator I set up figures internal volume is it calulates the volume of the green area then the volume of the orange area depending on the length of the pink board. Then it adds them together and subtracts any displacements you might have. that is one of my points but not in this post you can not calculate displacement before the port is calculated. so why use displacements in the formula? as far as i see it your adding to much air space with those calculators that add in the displacements. so why not just build a box like 2.5 cu-ft and stick a port in it and forget the displacements? all you have to do to make the bass note out of the port falter is make the box bigger yet ? it would be like using displacements. if you read in to the number that is basically what there doing is calculating and then minus till it fits. which i seen a lot of calculators go way to big on boxes and not play the right note. sounds like a cone fluttering and it was because of the displacements. just like a lot of manufacture will calculate in the displacement in to the ports etc /sub displacements etc... so the box you design become one noteish no mater what. even if you were just to build the box dimensions of a 2.5 calculate the port and stick it in the box. it will play the same as if you add the displacements so you over calculate some what. because of the company calculating more then needed and you add to it. the cone mite flutter like over powering and hitting peak x mech BTW just trying to figure out why your off of mine by .07 cu-ft mine say there smaller were your says it's bigger yet. could not figure it out but will sooner or later lol's

i think you forgot to take in to affect the .75 wood thickness of the port instead of a 2 inch opening like the calculator says it would be 2.75 x 13x22 which would make the box 2.27953125 cubic feet with the displacement of port .455 and sub of .16 and the box inside dimensions of 28.5x13.5 x 13 =/1728 = 2.89453125 before displacements. sorry did not calculate the port tune yet .

x2 once you get it in the box you want it don't unscrew them. there is a trim plate that breaks loose once you unscrew it. all it is is glued down only way to fix it is drill a hole and put a screw in it. that is the mechanical noise i have herad from them.

got a question for you what or who told you to set with a dmm. reason is i know for a fact that you can set it by ear or by osiloscope never ever use a dmm. reason is it give's false readings even with paek hold set on it. see the ac as we know it that the amp out puts is realy a pulsated dc that is considedered ac. the problem with calling it dc or ac is there incorrect it has trates of the two stuff like. polarity and can form a sine wave etc... if you try to use peak hold on the dmm it is not accraute as the o-scope to get it on the verge of cliping and you can not dectet this with the dmm, this is unless it has a oscope feature on it. this is why they say you should over power with the amp and set to the distortion method so to bring the gain up slowly till distortion is heard and remove gain till no distortion is heard. sorry not trying to be a prick just try to help on bad old habbits ask around it true.