Lucky 76

Thanks guys!

Thanks for the input! I was going to put 2 10s in each door but depth limitations killed the plan =(. Thats sick bro I betcha those get down low.

I talked to Dom over at SDS and he said that deadener is not what I am after. My panel literally flexes lol. We are not talking rattles. He told me the only effective way to do this was to use those aluminum bars. He told me to weld them but that would require a repaint which is not going to happen. The mids are not the problem, it's the subs. 4 18s on ~ 10kw rms just destroys the panels. He also told me that for my particular application I am better off not using a deadener as it will take away from spl in most cases. He told me to use a mass loaded vinyl to get rid of exterior noise as well as closed cell foam. I am trying to brace the exterior panel of my door from the inside using aluminum bars.

Time to revive this thread once again! Started building the front door panels and rear amp rack. Pictures will come shortly! Each front door to house - 8 6.5" Dayton Audio Mids 4 1.25 Inch Alesis Tweeters Should be an interesting outcome. Btw ... it's good to be back

How do you recommend I brace these in place?

Whichever is easier for you to use.

I am currently trying to make my doors more rigid. I was going to use 1/8" thick aluminum bars but I do not want to weld them to my door skin as I will have to repaint my car. I was told I could use pl premium but I have no way of clamping them down for 24 hours. Here is my solution I was going to just coat the inner skin of the doors with multiple layers of fiberglass. To get this to stick to the skin I am kind of clueless. Would sanding the door with a heavy grit prior to fiberglassing be enough?

I don't think you realize what you are going to have to do near your kick panel area to make a pod. There is a lot of cutting involved and it is a bitch! The only people that fabricate kick panels are people who are going for optimum sound quality. A mid and tweet is usually put in a pod. I highly recommend you take this to a reputable shop to get done as it is not something you want to start as part of your first fiberglass job either. ? I have kick panels from the junk yard, and if the pods dont look so great, I'll just wrap them with carpet so you can't see the imperfections.. There is more to it than that. You need to basically fiberglass the pod onto the metal floor of the car. You then have to vent the pod somewhere to get enough volume or your speaker will be choked. In order to do this cutting of sheet metal is usually involved =(

also tame down the output =)

Alesis 1" Shielded Soft Dome Tweeter | alesis tweeter shielded soft dome soft dome tweeter cc50 FBR3 | Parts-Express.com cross over @ 2500 with 24db/oct slope

yeaaaa without a doubt. I am going to do that before I fiberglass a completely new door. Thanks for the advice!

Personally if the door panel idea really bothers you I would go to a junk yard and find a spare. There is one lying around somewhere.

Your faith is misconstrued. 4x6's are pretty much terrible across the board. Alright, so should I try a pair of mli-65's with SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter in the kicks? I would do the doors, but I don't want to ruin my doorpanels. The truck is a 90, and the interior is in awesome shape. I don't think you realize what you are going to have to do near your kick panel area to make a pod. There is a lot of cutting involved and it is a bitch! The only people that fabricate kick panels are people who are going for optimum sound quality. A mid and tweet is usually put in a pod. I highly recommend you take this to a reputable shop to get done as it is not something you want to start as part of your first fiberglass job either.

So are you saying make a test enclosure that would fit on my door panel first to get proper volume or are you saying make an external test enclosure and see how it sounds at various volumes?