Lucky 76

Thanks guys!

I am currently trying to make my doors more rigid. I was going to use 1/8" thick aluminum bars but I do not want to weld them to my door skin as I will have to repaint my car. I was told I could use pl premium but I have no way of clamping them down for 24 hours. Here is my solution I was going to just coat the inner skin of the doors with multiple layers of fiberglass. To get this to stick to the skin I am kind of clueless. Would sanding the door with a heavy grit prior to fiberglassing be enough?

Thanks for the input! I was going to put 2 10s in each door but depth limitations killed the plan =(. Thats sick bro I betcha those get down low.

I talked to Dom over at SDS and he said that deadener is not what I am after. My panel literally flexes lol. We are not talking rattles. He told me the only effective way to do this was to use those aluminum bars. He told me to weld them but that would require a repaint which is not going to happen. The mids are not the problem, it's the subs. 4 18s on ~ 10kw rms just destroys the panels. He also told me that for my particular application I am better off not using a deadener as it will take away from spl in most cases. He told me to use a mass loaded vinyl to get rid of exterior noise as well as closed cell foam. I am trying to brace the exterior panel of my door from the inside using aluminum bars.

Time to revive this thread once again! Started building the front door panels and rear amp rack. Pictures will come shortly! Each front door to house - 8 6.5" Dayton Audio Mids 4 1.25 Inch Alesis Tweeters Should be an interesting outcome. Btw ... it's good to be back

"OK, lets revive this build log. I need you to post what you are gonna be running in your wall. I need to know the subs, the amps and the batteries that are going to be used. This is the information i got off of your video, if it does not match up to your Aviator, let me know immediately before i start the build process. Baffle = right behind front seat area Height - 42.25" for baffle height, 38" once over the hump. Width - 50" in baffle location, 44" wide throughout the rest of the vehicle. Width 2 - 41.75" wide if box goes to the headliner.. Depth - 37" on the hump, 63" total. 2 questions i have- Depth - am i to assume that you can use 26" of depth in between the hump and front seats? If this is true, how close would the box be from touching the seats? and other question - when measuring from bottom up, how high can i go before the width starts shrinking from 44" to 41.75"? The measurements you did at the VERY back of the vehicle are irrelevant for the box design as you stated your equipment will be installed back there. I just need to be able to draw it out as square as possible without having to contour the design every few inches. The front WILL be bigger than the back, but i do need to know the above questions before i start." -Shizzon I can tell you the equipment now and then tomorrow I will have to take measurements in the car. 4 18" Xcons 2 Sundown SAZ-3500D 1 Sundown SAX100.4 1 Sundown SAX50.4 3 or 4 C&D UPS12-490MR Batteries In the back I figured we would hide the batteries in what would look like a bench. Above the bench we can have the 2 3500s next to each other, then the 100.4 below them in the middle and then the 50.4 directly under the 100.4. I will draw up a picture in paint tomorrow at work since my mac does not have paint =(

How do you recommend I brace these in place?

Whichever is easier for you to use.

I don't think you realize what you are going to have to do near your kick panel area to make a pod. There is a lot of cutting involved and it is a bitch! The only people that fabricate kick panels are people who are going for optimum sound quality. A mid and tweet is usually put in a pod. I highly recommend you take this to a reputable shop to get done as it is not something you want to start as part of your first fiberglass job either. ? I have kick panels from the junk yard, and if the pods dont look so great, I'll just wrap them with carpet so you can't see the imperfections.. There is more to it than that. You need to basically fiberglass the pod onto the metal floor of the car. You then have to vent the pod somewhere to get enough volume or your speaker will be choked. In order to do this cutting of sheet metal is usually involved =(

also tame down the output =)

Alesis 1" Shielded Soft Dome Tweeter | alesis tweeter shielded soft dome soft dome tweeter cc50 FBR3 | Parts-Express.com cross over @ 2500 with 24db/oct slope

yeaaaa without a doubt. I am going to do that before I fiberglass a completely new door. Thanks for the advice!

So I am doing a completely new door setup. The inner skin to which the speaker is normally mounted to will be cut out. I am basically going to fiberglass a completely new door panel that will act as a sealed pod that will bolt on to the sides of the door. My question is how do I go about deadening this since the speakers will be housed in their own fiberglass enclosure? This was my approach. Let me know what you think. I was going to deaden the actual steel door with a layer of damplifier then glue a layer of luxury liner ontop of that. I would then bolt in the fiberglassed pod. Inside the pod I would glue on a layer of overkill. Does that sound about right? I want some expert advice as my theory might be wrong. Each door pod will house 8 Dayton DC160 6.5" Midbasses and 4 Alesis 1" Soft Dome Tweeters. Is a single layer of the material I specified enough? Also how much do you recommend I buy of each product? Thanks as Always, Chris

Personally if the door panel idea really bothers you I would go to a junk yard and find a spare. There is one lying around somewhere.

Your faith is misconstrued. 4x6's are pretty much terrible across the board. Alright, so should I try a pair of mli-65's with SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter in the kicks? I would do the doors, but I don't want to ruin my doorpanels. The truck is a 90, and the interior is in awesome shape. I don't think you realize what you are going to have to do near your kick panel area to make a pod. There is a lot of cutting involved and it is a bitch! The only people that fabricate kick panels are people who are going for optimum sound quality. A mid and tweet is usually put in a pod. I highly recommend you take this to a reputable shop to get done as it is not something you want to start as part of your first fiberglass job either.

So are you saying make a test enclosure that would fit on my door panel first to get proper volume or are you saying make an external test enclosure and see how it sounds at various volumes?

I calculated the amount of room I have and the volume seems to work. I was going to port them but didn't have enough volume. What volume do you have? How did you choose what volume you thought you needed? I forget. I know it was possible though I talked via live chat with parts express about it. I think they said I needed somewhere around .3 cu ft / mid if i wanted to go sealed and around .5 cu ft / mid if i wanted to go ported. Don't take my word as I can't remember. I need to relook this again. There is enough room though =)

I lol'd while reading the op, while writting a response, and reading your response. It looks as if I am not alone.

Have you ever owned bose m5? just out of curiosity. Sony will sound fnominaly better than blose. Try it.

I calculated the amount of room I have and the volume seems to work. I was going to port them but didn't have enough volume.

I was thinking about that too. The only problem is it's 3x thicker. I don't know if I am going to have enough volume =(

I cannot make out what you are saying.

The DC160 are an 8 ohm driver rated at 50 wrms. For the 18 bucks they costed me they really can't be beaten. What are you running for your tweets because that plays a major role in chosing which midbass driver would best suite your needs.

Na I have been up in school. Haven't really had time to work on it. Summer is 2 weeks away though and we have bigggg plans. Putting in 8 mids and 4 tweeters in each door =) We also still have the wall to finish ahahahaha.