Jump to content

Sniper

Members
  • Content count

    52
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Sniper

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 11/14/1992

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    corruptedsephiroth@hotmail.com
  • Yahoo
    alexander_s_walls
  • Skype
    jakethefox90

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Bend, IN
  • Interests
    Bass! Why else would I be here :3
  1. Sniper

    adding a relay control for trunk release?

    on the topic of the saturn and the 15s, since anyone who's familiar with the SC1 probably already knows that the backseat is way too damn small, I think you probably know where im going with this (no, not a wall, maybe window-line wall ;3)
  2. Sniper

    Subs that hit your chest.

    2 15" JL Audio 15w0v2 subs tuned to mid 30s~ (somewhere around 35hz) on a PA3000DB pushing roughly 1100 watts RMS, does 151db at the headrest sealed. makes your whole body shake, made my ears pop
  3. Finishing the 5.4 box today

  4. Finishing the 5.4 box today

  5. Finishing the 5.4 box today

  6. Sniper

    repairing a problem with my 18

    I'll get repaired images up after I get my new HU for the Jimmy im doing a build in. Expect a build thread in 3 weeks to months. (as in 3 months of course)
  7. Sniper

    repairing a problem with my 18

    i ended up using spray adhesive and repaired the terminals with solder. it was a low excursion Dayton Audio DCS450 18. not made to do like 30MM XMAX or anything. gets the job done as a cheap 18, its the one in my image. <------------- i'd upload pics but I am just too busy... as im writing this right before I hit they hay at 12:22AM
  8. anyway, a little back story, I sold this sub to a friends brother, he brings it back to me and says the sub is blown and figures I could use it. with a little inspection I noticed a few things. the tencil leads were coated in the normal wire cover thingy that some subs use (red and black wires), well, the wires will still pretty much covered, but there are spots that seem to be missing wire cover. and the Positive wire is pulled out of the terminal a little (meaning it needs re-soldered) and this 18 has a dual spider setup right? the top one is glued on a big ring about a quarter to half an inch tall. anyways, the top spider seems to have pulled itself off of the ring piece, making a buzzing noise that sounds very close to being blown. I placed the lead with my finger so i' d be powered, and I held the cone down a little on the top part of the suspension (to keep the layer from buzzing) and it sounded extremely clean. what im wondering is what kind of glue will work on this sub for fixing the spider? + it doesnt seem to need a recone as it is still stiff as hell, so im not going to recone it >.> TL;DR version : Spider has pulled itself off a riser, needs reglued, what glue works for it?
  9. so i've got a 1993 Saturn SC1 that has a busted lock system for the trunk. The trunk itself can open in the front via a lever. BUT, if I am going to put the system I want in this car, I want to make it so the car has to be in accessory mode before the trunk can open (or key in ignition, what ever will start 12V activity via remote) I was thinking attaching a small 12v pull motor to the line that runs to the front, then just setting it up so it can be toggled while the radio is running... I dont even know if this is possible ;o Basically, I want my stuff to be harder to steal. 'cause the trunk alone has been worked on (by me personally!) so the hatch mechanism are MUCH lower than stock and the actual lock cylinder has been detached from the mechanism that turns the J hook into place (aka, the metal rod thing is broke and its too much of a pain in the ass to line back up) with the hatch mech lowered how it is, one cannot insert a screw driver on the seal line via center and bash the mech with a hammer, its set so the only way it can be opened is from the inside. which is why im curious about setting up a system where the trunk can only be opened with the car running... (yes, I do realize they could pull my fold-down seats out, but that box is going to fill that whole crevice, the actual amps are going to be at the front of the trunk in front of the lock mechanisms and the 15s will be placed in a way that 4 will fit in that trunk, so we're talking VERY little room. (very creative box, i'll get a CAD pic on here tommarow of what im thinking, that is if I can find a 3VIEW of this car on the internet. BTW : want to make a few bucks? Find me the very image I need to draw this car in cad, and I will get you 5$! This image needs to be : FRONT, SIDE, TOP, and BACK 5 bucks to the first person who finds the perfect image (also, these need to be properly scaled pictures. I'll explain that tommarow as well when I get the CAD drawing up)
  10. Sniper

    garbage 15s

    im not sure why the mic isnt picking up drop, you can hear the closet resonate and shit, but no bass.. I dont get it D: This thing drops pretty good for an old 15 though
  11. Sniper

    garbage 15s

    now with video
  12. Sniper

    Before posting ANY questions

    Site link is bad.
  13. Sniper

    lowest recommended power & box size question

    I saw the Q for sale in the FS section of this site ^^; Hmmm, guess this 1300a infinity's getting some use (amp & wire at the junk yard for under 15$ ftw, and its like 100 feet of 4 gauge wire, plenty for power, ground, and sub ;3)
  14. Sniper

    Thump! car audio/

    best part, got the amp for 8$ and I got all the wire for 3$
  15. Sniper

    Thump! car audio/

    heres what I got there today (besides the crappy anaba speaker) a bunch of 8GA wire (what better way to wire big subs up) about 30 feet of 4GA wire (not sure what im gonna do with this yet, maybe use it for the amp I picked up) a Infinity 1300a amplifier (has NO problems what so ever!, the car it was in had been rear ended, I spotted the tell tale power cable heading to the trunk so I ripped the backseat out, sure enough there was an amp there)
×