Sniper

so i've got a 1993 Saturn SC1 that has a busted lock system for the trunk. The trunk itself can open in the front via a lever. BUT, if I am going to put the system I want in this car, I want to make it so the car has to be in accessory mode before the trunk can open (or key in ignition, what ever will start 12V activity via remote) I was thinking attaching a small 12v pull motor to the line that runs to the front, then just setting it up so it can be toggled while the radio is running... I dont even know if this is possible ;o Basically, I want my stuff to be harder to steal. 'cause the trunk alone has been worked on (by me personally!) so the hatch mechanism are MUCH lower than stock and the actual lock cylinder has been detached from the mechanism that turns the J hook into place (aka, the metal rod thing is broke and its too much of a pain in the ass to line back up) with the hatch mech lowered how it is, one cannot insert a screw driver on the seal line via center and bash the mech with a hammer, its set so the only way it can be opened is from the inside. which is why im curious about setting up a system where the trunk can only be opened with the car running... (yes, I do realize they could pull my fold-down seats out, but that box is going to fill that whole crevice, the actual amps are going to be at the front of the trunk in front of the lock mechanisms and the 15s will be placed in a way that 4 will fit in that trunk, so we're talking VERY little room. (very creative box, i'll get a CAD pic on here tommarow of what im thinking, that is if I can find a 3VIEW of this car on the internet. BTW : want to make a few bucks? Find me the very image I need to draw this car in cad, and I will get you 5$! This image needs to be : FRONT, SIDE, TOP, and BACK 5 bucks to the first person who finds the perfect image (also, these need to be properly scaled pictures. I'll explain that tommarow as well when I get the CAD drawing up)

on the topic of the saturn and the 15s, since anyone who's familiar with the SC1 probably already knows that the backseat is way too damn small, I think you probably know where im going with this (no, not a wall, maybe window-line wall ;3)

2 15" JL Audio 15w0v2 subs tuned to mid 30s~ (somewhere around 35hz) on a PA3000DB pushing roughly 1100 watts RMS, does 151db at the headrest sealed. makes your whole body shake, made my ears pop

I'll get repaired images up after I get my new HU for the Jimmy im doing a build in. Expect a build thread in 3 weeks to months. (as in 3 months of course)

anyway, a little back story, I sold this sub to a friends brother, he brings it back to me and says the sub is blown and figures I could use it. with a little inspection I noticed a few things. the tencil leads were coated in the normal wire cover thingy that some subs use (red and black wires), well, the wires will still pretty much covered, but there are spots that seem to be missing wire cover. and the Positive wire is pulled out of the terminal a little (meaning it needs re-soldered) and this 18 has a dual spider setup right? the top one is glued on a big ring about a quarter to half an inch tall. anyways, the top spider seems to have pulled itself off of the ring piece, making a buzzing noise that sounds very close to being blown. I placed the lead with my finger so i' d be powered, and I held the cone down a little on the top part of the suspension (to keep the layer from buzzing) and it sounded extremely clean. what im wondering is what kind of glue will work on this sub for fixing the spider? + it doesnt seem to need a recone as it is still stiff as hell, so im not going to recone it >.> TL;DR version : Spider has pulled itself off a riser, needs reglued, what glue works for it?

i ended up using spray adhesive and repaired the terminals with solder. it was a low excursion Dayton Audio DCS450 18. not made to do like 30MM XMAX or anything. gets the job done as a cheap 18, its the one in my image. <------------- i'd upload pics but I am just too busy... as im writing this right before I hit they hay at 12:22AM

so, was at the junk yard today getting some parts for the Saturn (need a new trunk latch) today, when I spotted this odd looking by-nine on the rear deck of a caprice (old 80s box chevy) right? so after I got my part and my bolts needed, I walked over to the caprice and took a peak in the trunk, found about 15 feet of 8AWG wire (perfect length for the application I need it for, no, im not using it as power wire) in the trunk, and then I looked at this yellow by-nine that I saw, the magnet was BIG, had to be atleast an 80oz magnet, mags as big as a CD in diameter, couldnt find the second one, so i grabbed it and continued to look for other parts. later on today when I got home I hooked her up and dropped her in my spare 6x9 box, she's pretty loud for a 6x9. anyways, anyone ever heard of "Thump!" before? back sticker : Thump! T8693 240 WATTS - T! AN Anaba^GROUP INC COMPANY and of course the signature "Made in CHINA" sticker

im not sure why the mic isnt picking up drop, you can hear the closet resonate and shit, but no bass.. I dont get it D: This thing drops pretty good for an old 15 though

so, my friend Jeremiah tells me that his brother in law Sean was throwing away some vintage 70s 15" pioneers, so I was like sweet drop that shit in your trunk, I'll give you a holla' in 4 to 5 hours. so about 5 hours later, I showed up at his house, he told me Sean had ripped the woofers up to keep people from taking em. well, they werent actually in bad shape ;o the mids and tweets are destroyed, nothing I cant get off parts express for 50$ or less, I was more interested in the 15s for sub use (5.1 stereo with integrated subwoofer amp, my 8 that came with it was sold right after I got my 18 so I could buy some wood for it XD ) cause frankly, a 200hz crossover point means my music doesnt sound too well on the sats, so anyways, the woofers were just damaged a little around the surround, fixed it with some silicone sealent adhesive, the *bottom* 15 was damaged a little more, the cone was ripped out a little more, it had broke the tencil lead under the dust cap, so for the past few hours i've been trying to get my weller working right to fix it with solder, I dont understand why the solder keeps moving away from the tencil stud on the coil, its getting annoying, cause when the lead sparks at the bass the woofer distorts. trying to fix it cause 2 15s is better than 1 15 (of the same brand and series of cource ) Anyways, these things are worn out so much its amazing, they use the traditional pioneer cloth/fiber surround, so no dry rot (yay for me), the magnets on these things are TINY AS HELL (like 20oz at the most), the suspension is worn the hell out though, the spider isnt very stiff, when playing with tones they push out... And (best part) When you push the cone down and release it, they bounce!!!!! Anyways, still a good grab fer free. (pics will be up shortly)

now with video

Site link is bad.

I saw the Q for sale in the FS section of this site ^^; Hmmm, guess this 1300a infinity's getting some use (amp & wire at the junk yard for under 15$ ftw, and its like 100 feet of 4 gauge wire, plenty for power, ground, and sub ;3)

im currently looking into buying a Fi Q 18 right? well, i dont have any car amps currently! (Had to sell my two 600 watt kenwood amps, yea i know it isnt much power, but it was plenty for my 6000s) So, since I def. dont have enough to buy a SAZ-1000 yet, how much would you say could get the Q moving? like 500 rms? 800rms? 1000rms? I dont wanna spend a whole lot, cause I want to buy a SAZ soon, but I dont want the Fi just sitting around, you know how it is when you get a new sub, you wanna hook it up as soon as the box is done! Cant just finish the box and put it in the garage and watch it gather dust. enough-power-for-minimum-before-I-buy-the-bigger-Sundown-amp budget Budget : about 200 dollars Power needed? : as much thats true for about 200 dollars (this is why im asking, theres tons of amps out there, but what is -right- for 200 buck?) Sites provided : Sonicelectronix.com and audiosavings (avoiding crutchfield 'cause I dont have enough money to spend MSRP on crap, Crutchfield charges more for the cheap-o pioneer than it is at walmart XD) Why am i buying a Q when I dont have cash for a big amp? - 'cause he doesnt want that much for the Q, plus i'll have the cash for it in a while. (few car problems to take care of, like new gaskets and hoses, ya know, normal wear-and-tear type things) EDIT : totally forgot to add this does 6 cube @ 28hz sound good? or should I go bigger? (its gonna be in my closet, so there is technically a limit, clothes, single folding door size closet)

best part, got the amp for 8$ and I got all the wire for 3$

heres what I got there today (besides the crappy anaba speaker) a bunch of 8GA wire (what better way to wire big subs up) about 30 feet of 4GA wire (not sure what im gonna do with this yet, maybe use it for the amp I picked up) a Infinity 1300a amplifier (has NO problems what so ever!, the car it was in had been rear ended, I spotted the tell tale power cable heading to the trunk so I ripped the backseat out, sure enough there was an amp there)

has a black surround and a yellow cone (might be tarnished white) from what i've found out so far, mids shot, and I kinda dropped it earlier and the mag fell off the mid. so if I want to even use this now it needs a solder dab to repair the broken tencil lead D: oh well, atleast it looks cool. it hit lows good, and it was very stiff.

...when you have more money in wire than most have in speakers ...when you'll sell spare computers to buy a sub (ME!) ...when you will sacrifice the backseat for more bass ...when your door speakers cost more than common folk's subwoofers (common folk being people that have systems, like Rockford P2s, that sort of thing) ...when you've had to bag your car because you have too much weight in the back ...when you dont care how fast your car is, just how loud it is ...when you've got a room full of magnets and old speakers (and frames) ...when you have a magnet holding your door open ...when your computer system has your old 6x9's from last setup hooked up as computer speakers ...when you've spent so much on your system you could have bought a new car ...when your sound system is worth more than the car (oh man, i could go on for hours)

at my place that means i'll need a new cone when I get the new amp. shit gets damaged here when its not used, plus im impatient, if its a refurbished sundown amp, I should have a problem as long as it was fixed right the first time. the 1000's actually arent as much as I thought they were, so I *might* just get the right amp the first time and just have this 18 boxed up. Kinda sucks about this next line, but im gonna need to put a grill on it to be safe. (kids, dogs, older-arsehos-of-brothers) meaning, i get to get something made custom on the water-jet wonder what design i should use :3 (bunch of small Fi symbols? dunno)

http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67_69_80&products_id=205 http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67_69_79&products_id=181 whats another $50?...i had my 15 on about 7-800rms(overrated hifonics 1200d) then switched to an ed nine 1(under rated 1200) and didn't notice THAT much difference. I would just hold out until you can get what you really want. holy crap, thats awesome as hell, i'll have to hop on that still getting a SAZ-1000, thats music to my ears ;3

So... I got bored today and decided to write up equations for amplifiers, like loss, power with efficiency, how to find how efficient it is. basically, a variation of ohms law. as we all know, (V)olts * (A)mps equals (P)ower (V*A=P) but, in amplifier circuitry, this cant be used because amps have their own loss. so lets say our imaginary amplifier is 160A, running off 10.65 Vs, and has an effieciency of 77%. it'll push out around 1312.08 Watts. now to find each number, we use these numbers to find them. Basically, 1312.08W / 10.65V = 123.2a - 160a = 36.8 amps of current lost in the amplifier, 36.8 / 160 = .23, subtract that from 1 and we get .77. simple. I'm quite sure all amp builders already know this, but it was interesting to me, I was trying to find what voltage that the Sundown 1500.1 would have to be at in order to put out EXACTLY 1500 watts. the amp is 80% effiecent and runs off 160A. so we would need exactly 11.71875 Volts behind it (11.7) in order to put out 1500 exactly if its 80% efficient. because no amp is 100% effiecient. (V)x(A)x(E in 0.X form) = (POWER) (P) / (V) = (amps after loss) (amperage left after loss) / (total amperage) = (E)ffciency (amps left after loss) - (amps total before loss) = (amps that were lost in the line) Well, thats about all I know with numbers for now, might throw more info on here, maybe even some info from one of my acoustics books (yea, i'll get some t-line equations on here)

its used, and I can get a 15" 12 spoke basket real cheap (10shipped) + recones aren't that expensive, play with it in the room for a while then after I get the car from my dad (its gonna be his until the second half of my junior year) im gonna get the recone kit for a 15" Fi Q, then have some wall socket fun with the old 18

well, its about time I get a new subwoofer, my 15s are completely worn to shit (bet you've never worn a driver so bad you can make the cone bounce by pushing it in) they sounded so good 10 years ago, I dont know what happened. anyways, so I've got 4 computers imma sell to get a fi, that means 400 to 500 dollars for a new setup. What should I go for that wont kill my price limit? (Please note, Shipping is a factor here, and I want an 18, so subtract 40$ from the total money for wood. yadayadayada) Thinking about maybe a Fi Q 18 fully loaded... but could I get a no-option BTL for under 500 shipped??? (best to put it here, you people know how much these drivers weigh, and if it helps Zip is 46628)