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///M5

SSA Tech Team
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Everything posted by ///M5

  1. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Sorry Matt. No fun to lose a best friend
  2. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    You are faster than me! No hurry, do it when it works for you. I REALLY appreciate it.
  3. How are you verifying the crossover points? Be careful, easy to melt your stuff. Running active with dials and dip switches on amplifiers IMO shouldn't ever be done.
  4. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    And if they were a bit closer than 3/16" it'd be fine. I would just blast the first two here and then do the inner two how they look best since I have no way of measuring. '"
  5. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    I had planned on indexing it forward. Feel odd if I have a new "washer" underneath all 4 handlebar bolts. Either was going to trim around 2 or slide it forward which buys me another 1/16". I am still confused at where the extra 3/16" came from in your drawing as I can't argue with it. Funny how much more clear what you made fast is than what I did all complicated and shit.
  6. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    I know it is over 3", but only 0.0625" so I didn't think it mattered much other than for centering it of course. 10/16*4 = 40/16 3/16*3 = 9/16 49/16 = 3.0625" or 3 1/16" Am I nuts?
  7. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Let me know what I owe you Mike.
  8. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Optical illusion. 4.75 is perfect.
  9. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Thanks guys. See if this makes any sense. I figured instead of a picture or two I would make a quick document. In pdf form, I can surely change that if you can't open it. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1C-aL6ObIqcnwa4Az3NhiCyBSpPTugKib Shows what I am trying to build. Reviewing the picture I need to verify the 4.75", but the rest is good.
  10. Active from the amp is dangerous...not sure I would go that route.
  11. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Best thing I've read all day, had no idea where to go. No blacksmith shop here like up at the farm.
  12. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Holy hell. Stop... and thank you. I will get you exactly what I need. I'd be glad to pay for it as well. I need to measure a bit better, but am in bed and dont want to fuck up.
  13. Dual crossovers is a terrible idea....although it makes me wonder how the active portion is setup.
  14. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    I was just in Boston. Commuting there is a no
  15. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Needs 4 5/8" holes to hold the dummy lights.
  16. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    I need a piece of sheet metal that is bent at 90 degrees. 2"x2"x5" . Where would you try to source that? I've been looking for boxes to cut up.... It is for a minidash to mount on the atv when I raise the bars
  17. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Fiber....hmm
  18. Not sound good and being pushed means new drivers, not adding more. The more descriptive you are the better we can help. Would also be good to know how it is all setup. Generically speaking though more drivers will sound worse, not better.
  19. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Wait, wha? Saturday at 11 was the last update. The SHAME!
  20. ///M5

    Where did my midbass go?

    For reviewing the response and trouble shooting it is fine, but just don't expect the gospel if you make the changes as your body will change it all. Hard to measure at pinna correctly as well, but that is a whole different topic.
  21. Adding is not the solution. More will be worse. What about your current setup don't you like?
  22. ///M5

    Where did my midbass go?

    One other warning, don't use the measurements as gospel as I assume you weren't sitting in the car and measuring at both ears. Even then your head will influence the measurement. Of course finding modes and odd response anomalies to try to attack with eq surely works. Glad it helped. Isolation and understanding limits make a big difference in what can be done.
  23. ///M5

    Where did my midbass go?

    I would start with playing just the tweeters first and see how low they can play without stress. Then I would listen to the mids alone and see how high they can play without breaking up and how low without stress. Once there depending on mounting locations and aiming anything can happen. As a first start though I would try to have the tweet take as much mid as it can and the midbass take as much from the sub as it can. Then compare with less. Be careful as you adjust to not throw off your baseline, ie, do NOT use any boost in the eq or any voltage gain in the equalization. All cut.
  24. ///M5

    Where did my midbass go?

    Just as a clarifier with only 8 averages and using a white noise signal what you measured was the variation in the excitation not the response. That being said, the valleys are surely indicative or where the modes of your car are but the variation, width, and values are dubious at best with only 8. General rule of thumb with an FFT and noise signals are to watch the response as it averages and keep averaging until you see no further changes.
  25. ///M5

    Where did my midbass go?

    Just noticed you posted the settings. Yes, some changes. 100 averages Hanning window 67% overlap Personally I have no need for 1/12 octave, 1/3 or narrow band is enough ... I am a narrow band guy, but I can calculated the octave bins in my head. If there are any other settings you have a question on send me a text to peak so I don't miss them.
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