hdrox88

Factory alternator and battery location will continue to run the factory systems for the truck. The Singer alternator is wired up and charging the battery in the secondary under hood location and will charge additional batteries and power the amps. Cold start

Replaced plugs and wires today. Also got the Singer in place.

I pulled the back seat to see how much space I have. I'm undecided if I'm going to leave it all out or cram it in place of the 60% bench and make a 3 seater out of it. I picked up a secondary battery tray.

I bought the LPG 26NA.

For two subs, you would want dual 1 ohm version. Wire the coils of each sub in series, then wire the subs together in parallel. That would get you to a final 1 ohm load. I would encourage some reading to learn some of the basics like this so you have less of a chance of ruining some nice new equipment.

You don't bridge a mono amp. It would depend on if the subs are dual or single coil.

Day 1 - ...and so it begins! Conveniently, the Bose amp and sub are in the center console so removing them made plenty of room to mount my amps in there again.

Is that 13.1v at the alt or the amp? See what the difference is between those two points and go from there.

Too late to call by the time I got off work. I managed to find a couple instances where this is actually intentional. The plastic dot as it was called, is there to help with dispersion and FR. I just hope it's some good adhesive as it gets quite hot in vehicles here in the valley of the sun, don't need it coming loose.

I did the best I could to show what I am talking about. It appears to be stuck to the inside of the grill.

The tweeters came in yesterday and upon visual inspection I noticed something I've never seen before in a tweeter. There is, what looks like, a clear plastic/film disc slightly smaller in diameter than the aluminum dome that is sandwiched between the grill and the dome. It's centered and it's in both tweeters. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be there or not. I did some searching and can't seem to find anything about it.

This is my first time messing with the GM Data system as my older tahoe didn't have it. I don't care about keeping satellite radio, onstar, or the bose system. I DO want to retain warning chimes, retained accessory power, and steering wheel controls. I'm installing aftermarket head unit, amps, etc. I am looking at either the PAC RP3-GM11 and PAC SWI-RC(~$120), or Metra BX-GM1 and Metra ASWC-1(~$90). Of course saving money is nice, but I don't want to have any integration issues. Just hoping someone has used one or the other, or both, and knows if there are any known issues. Edit: I suppose I should mention I am working on a 2005 silverado.

It was late and I was tired, not sure what I was looking at last night. After more research today, it seems there is an overwhelming preference for the Metra/Axxess units.

I used drywall screws on my zcon when mounted on the top of the box with no problems. Threaded inserts and machine screws would be more secure for your mounting orientation.

That is what I'm looking at(for the Metra/Axxess parts). I am finding it for slightly more than that, but it's keeping the steering wheel controls working that jacks the price up an extra $50. Unless I missed something?

I would measure voltage drop front to back(on a demanding song, of course). That would be the easiest way to see if it's needed and you would know for sure, instead of just hearsay.

Will let you guys know when I get it playing. I need to work on treating the doors before I start putting things in place. Hopefully it's not much longer. This factory Blose setup is wearing on me.

My first point of attack would be a more powerful alternator. Of course, that also depends on how you listen. I'm going to go out on a limb and say you are looking to get the most output out of the sp4 that you can. Hifonics is a good bang for the buck amp, I'd make sure your voltage is rock solid before spending money on a new amp.

Well, I pulled the trigger on the LPG 26NA.

So you are using the RCA connections instead of the speaker wires coming out of the unit? First thing I'd check was wiring and make sure the loose speaker wires were protected and not touching eachother or other metal in the dash. Also, I'd check the troubleshooting section of the manual. There's bound to be a description of what the error code could mean.

For that many to keep popping, I would suspect incorrect wiring or tuning somewhere. Does it happen to both sides, one tweeter at a time? Is it both sides at the same time? Only one side that keeps going out? How exactly are they wired?

Dang, I really liked the color of that wrap. Pretty amazing what can be done with plasti-dip now. Kinda makes me wonder if the gloss finish will ever get to a mirror finish like a good clear coat paint job.

Haha, "...I hate tweeters that are designed like shit..." Thanks for the early morning laugh. Unfortunately I don't have the ID tweeters anymore. I do somewhat remember how it sounded when I was tuning and listening to one driver at a time. Kinda weird to listen like that. The mids of a two way set up definitely hold the most important part. Now I think it's kinda funny when people take a stock stereo and add subs and extra tweeters(crappy ones at that) to it.

I was going to see about the used market, but I can't seem to find anyone selling used diy tweeters in the US. Buying from someone in another country(overseas) kinda defeats the cost savings aspect. After you mentioned dome material not being as big a deal as I thought, I dug a little deeper on the 26na and am seriously considering it after reading some of the stuff I found. Of course, their ears are not my ears. Man this stuff gets frustrating, lol. I feel like I am going around in circles.