Gioia69

exactly what the title says. digital designs 9500 vs fi btl. who wins in an output competition? not who can take more wattage. which gets louder on a given amount of power? say 2k watts or something.

yeah i figured itd be a pretty close comparison. im just trying to steer my buddy in the right direction and he wants to get as loud as he can get, so i figured id post it up on here and ask. ive been tellin him to get a btl this whole time actually just cuz im a fan of Fi and the reputation the BTL has and the fact that its under $500. cant really beat that.

welll theres no holidays for being agnostic =[

ok. give me 20 grand for a tahoe, and then 5 grand for the system. thanks.

im talking about if you did a drop in comparison. say an 8 cube box tuned to 35 hz or somewhere along those lines. use one sub, take it out, drop the other one in, use it, and which one would be louder!!!!?!?!! and if it has to be a specific car, just say a tahoe. Are you going to be competing or is this just for daily? neither lol. i have a BL now and im already set on the BTL for the future. id never buy a dd 9500, theyre way too pucking expensive. but me and my friend got a demo from a guy with some 9500s and he wanted to know how it would compare to the btl. so i said idk, lets post it up on the forum, those mofos know everything!

im talking about if you did a drop in comparison. say an 8 cube box tuned to 35 hz or somewhere along those lines. use one sub, take it out, drop the other one in, use it, and which one would be louder!!!!?!?!! and if it has to be a specific car, just say a tahoe.

can anyone just grow a pair and answer my question without saying "its all in the install"? cuz i mean you could say that to literaly any situation. you could put a ported 18 in like a 1 cubic foot ported box and it probably wouldnt be as loud as a 12 in a 5 cubic foot box. im not gonna hold anyone to their answer. my friend just asked me which would be louder, so i figured id post something up on here and ask some more experienced people. someone just give me their best estimated answer. it doesnt matter if your wrong. just give me your best opinion.

a drop in comparison. same box same car same everything. just swapped subs. who wins

okay fine. chevy tahoe, 8 cubes tuned to 30 hz. who wins?

what section is this sticky in? id like to read it.

if you do in fact decide to go to a shop, go to as many as you can within reasonable driving distance. some shops charge pretty outrageous prices and will try to bullshit talk you into buying things you dont need or never intended on buying. Lookout for that.

i have a Fi BL 15 in a box thats exactly 4 cubes after port, mdf, and driver displacement. i love the way it sounds, even through a trunk. RE's calc said it was tuned to 34 hz i believe, but i dont think it actually gets tht low. more like 37ish. ill get you the exact specs of the box when i get home. i believe mine was somewhere around 16.5 H, 31 W, 21 D, with the port being 4 inches wide and goes straight back about 17 inches. but again, ill get the exact specs later tonight when i get home. EDIT: by the way mine is the fully loaded, old version of the BL. although i dont think that matters...

first off, like i said earlier, i was running it @ 2 ohms, so i already lose 900 potential watts right off the bat. second of all, i have a voltage meter, and am aware when i am clipping. i was running no where near what that amp was capable of producing, even at 2 ohms. it had nothing to do with how big of an amp it was. i could run a saz 3500d on stock electrical, but theres no way id ever use even half of it. i could just keep the gain knob down. so im not trying to hate, but your statement is kind of ignorant. I must be blind as heck, this guy has a bxi 2600 amp. hooked up to a stock electrical with only one battery, no in line fuse what-so-ever!!!, (250 amp recommended) playing his music hard for ten minutes,at 2 ohms. any he calls my statement ignorant??? how many amps/voltage u think he is pulling, even at 2 ohms(1200-1400wrms) it's quite a bit, .. i call this user error, that's why we all upgrade to multiple batteries, fuses, multiple runs of 1/0 wire and high output alternators. so we don't fry our amps. i don't care what kind of amp he has, it could be Sundown, but on what he's got. it to would be on borrowed time. i guess i didnt define hard, as hard is a subjective adjective. when i said hard, i ment as loud as i can go before i get voltage drop. so no, i was not pushing 1400 rms. as far as im concerned, if i had an amp that pushed 1 million watts on a stock electrical system, and never let the voltage drop, then i wouldnt have any poblems would i? now your just taking shots. i can go on this all day. EDIT: to add to this, i should say if i had an amp capable of producing 1 million watts and had it hooked to a stock electrical system, and had the gain set properly, i would be able to draw such little current that my electrical system could handle, hence not causing voltage drop, keeping everything under control. so what im getting at, is that how much power an amp is capable of producing has nothing to do with how much power the user needs to use the amp at lower power ranges (which i would consider anything less than a 1000 watts)

so im in class right now, and i cant focus cuz im so pissed off. all i have is a brutus 2608 on a Fi BL. running @ 2 ohms (rated 1700 rms). so heres what happened. im on my way to class, which is about a 20 minute drive. the music was on the whole time. probably going half tilt for the 1st half, then going hard for the last 10 mins. i have never encountered any problems with the amp in the past, so im very conused why it decided to shit out. im running a stock alt and battery, which i know is not enough for this amp, but thats what it is. i never properly set my gain, ive always just turned it down when i saw voltage drop or heard any clipping. back to the story, im about 2 minutes from school, and i feel like bumping a song that beats hard. so i turn on the song, and immediately i get slight voltage drop and some clipping from lack of voltage. this probably happened for like 2 seconds. i turned the volume down a couple notches, to keep my voltage stable, and stop the clipping. it continues to play for another 5ish seconds, and then my sub just stops playing. so i let the music continue playing for another 10 seconds or so, praying that it comes back on. and of course, it doesnt turn back on. so i turn my head unit off for a few seconds, and turn it back on, and a couple seconds after i turn the deck back on, when it triggers the amp to turn on, my voltage took a STEEP drop to the point that i could hear my motor starting to sound not so stable. so i shut my deck off, and a few seconds later, i can smell burnt equipment. i get to school about a minute to 2 minutes later, and asess the sub to make sure its not blown. no coil rub, dust cap not hot, no hot air in the port, so im guesing its ok. feel the amp, its kinda hot, check all the wiring, everything is how it should be. turned my car back on, and turned my deck on, and again i get steep voltage drop, so i turn it off, and go to my trunk to watch smoke pour out of my amp. at this point i assume my amp is fucked. anyone have advice for what i should do? class is done now, ill be back to check this thread soon hopefully.

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welding wire has a much weaker jacket and you have to be extra carefull when using it! like when you go though the firewall you have to use gromets and when going around sharp corners or rubbing spots you HAVE to tape them off or put something soft between the wire and the object. the car audio wiring cost more b/c it has a tougher jacket! Hey buddy......i got to speak up on that one..... that is not consistant with each brand of welding cable..... the 2/0 gauge welding cable that i have ran in the Dakota has a 1/8th" outer jacket and a 1/16th" inner jacket that is tough as nails.... being a Ironworker, I have had my fair share of welding cable in my hands over the past 13 yrs. we drag this cable, several hundred feet at times, acrosss steel, high in the air.....live! you can imagine if it were to cut and arc out, not a good thing. there is some "Billy Bad Ass" car audio cable out there, just the same, there is some welding cable that is top notch, in almost every senario , it will be cheaper, there is no mark up on it due to the car audio hype, some of this companies can sell audio equipment 230% mark up and they will get it for a while too! there is some good welding cable out there.... just fyi. okay , i got that all out there, lol. chop im confused... are you saying that its simply just the same thing as car audio power wire?

welding wire has a much weaker jacket and you have to be extra carefull when using it! like when you go though the firewall you have to use gromets and when going around sharp corners or rubbing spots you HAVE to tape them off or put something soft between the wire and the object. the car audio wiring cost more b/c it has a tougher jacket! is welding wire generally as flexible as car audio power wire? in some cases i believe it is MORE flexible due to the jacket being the way it is. but wiat for someone else who has used this stuff before comment on it. i haven't used it yet b/c i am not ready yet (still in school) to upgrade from 1/0 to 4/0. but it will happen..someday lol! im right there with ya... im still running 4 guage LOL

welding wire has a much weaker jacket and you have to be extra carefull when using it! like when you go though the firewall you have to use gromets and when going around sharp corners or rubbing spots you HAVE to tape them off or put something soft between the wire and the object. the car audio wiring cost more b/c it has a tougher jacket! is welding wire generally as flexible as car audio power wire?

yeah =[. guess ill have to save for another. id like to get a sundown but i really cant afford something like that. ill probably go with audioque, i havent heard anything bad about them and theyre less expensive than a sundown. If you cannot afford new, there are plenty of high end amplifiers in great shape used. Jacob is selling a few used 1500D's direct. ill consider it. i have $11 to my name right now. usually i like to buy my stuff new, just cuz i like knowing it hasnt been in anyone else's hands. but i guess if jacob himself is selling them, then maybe i cant go wrong. do you know how much hes asking for those 1500d's? and off the top of your head do you know what they do @ 2 ohms?

is there any difference between welding wire and your normal power wire you would buy from a car audio company?

yeah =[. guess ill have to save for another. id like to get a sundown but i really cant afford something like that. ill probably go with audioque, i havent heard anything bad about them and theyre less expensive than a sundown.

Actually there are more people than you think that run that much power on stock electrical and dont know why they do but I even did at once (which wasnt smart of me but nothing happened besides amps getting hot every now and then). Yeah buddy quality plays a large part in the role (look at how many hifonics amps crap out on people when it isnt the user's fault), you can try and beef up sorry quality amps all day but there own track records proves them wrong. Were not saying they wont work, Ive heard hifonics amps and at one time thought they were great till I seen the failure rate. Be smart about your logics (they would be good budget amps if they knew how to last), I would pick Audioque amps over these since at least they can last. It was part user error rushing to put it in and the amp itself (enough said). In life the quality of anything has to do with how long it last and that is common sense (not the price of something or the name brand but the QUALITY of the product or service shows how it will endure over time). i agree with you on this. at the time i bought the hifonics amp, i planned on pushing 2 fi bl's. which is why when i blew the amp, i was running it @ 2 ohms, cuz i planned on having 2 BL's @ 1 ohm. and also at the time i bought the amp, i had a job and my life was going well, and i had planned on a h/o alt, batts, appropriate wiring, etc. however, shit turned around and i moved out for a while and got into some shit and owed lots of $$ so i couldnt afford all the stuff i needed to support the amp. thats why it was such a busty system.

first off, like i said earlier, i was running it @ 2 ohms, so i already lose 900 potential watts right off the bat. second of all, i have a voltage meter, and am aware when i am clipping. i was running no where near what that amp was capable of producing, even at 2 ohms. it had nothing to do with how big of an amp it was. i could run a saz 3500d on stock electrical, but theres no way id ever use even half of it. i could just keep the gain knob down. so im not trying to hate, but your statement is kind of ignorant.

theres no built in fuse on the 2608. and this is going to sound very irresponsible and noobish... but i didnt have an external fuse on it. from a birds eye view, this was probably an event waiting to happen. im a broke 19 year old student. im running 4 guage, stock electrical, and no fuses. very stupid, i know. Yea. lesson learned. never just assume that your systeme will be ok without fuses where they belong, because stuff like this happens. take the extra 20 mins to install the fuse and fuse block next time. Fuses won't help a faulty amp. If it goes, it goes. It only helps protect your car in case the power supply of the amp takes a dump and acts like a short circuit between the positive and negative wire. actually i think it would have helped my situation. when it first went out while i was driving, the voltage didnt move. the voltage only severly dropped after i turned the deck off and then back on again 2 times. but maybe not, i dont know. a fuse wouldnt have hurt tho.

Yeah he is right the fuse is just to protect the wiring and your car, because without one the power wire would of eventually caught fire and burned the car to the ground. I had a Pheniox Gold Amp shit out just like you experienced, now mind you my PG amp was over 10 years old and served a LONG time but the breaker/fuse I had saved my car before it burnt down, once my amp shorted and started smoking the breaker kicked and saved my car. Hifonics seems cheap from what I have read, how old was it? I was told my PG should of had the caps replaced at the 10 year mark. ive had it for about a year and a half. only used for about 6 months of driving every day. EDIT: pretty much every day