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firey_kimchi

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Everything posted by firey_kimchi

  1. firey_kimchi

    Newbie

    Welcome!
  2. firey_kimchi

    What's Going On

    Welcome! Nice choice of equipment!
  3. firey_kimchi

    2005 Subaru Forester Build Log

    Very nice!!! Love the red port. I feel ya on MDF prices. In Japan, sheets are smaller (3' x 6') and cost almost $80/sheet! I'm also looking forward to the release of the Evil crossovers. Where on the door cards are you going to mount the tweeters? I originally planned to mount mine on the door card but ended up getting some pods and put them on the a-pillar.
  4. firey_kimchi

    2005 Subaru Forester Build Log

    How's the progress coming?
  5. firey_kimchi

    2005 Subaru Forester Build Log

    Welcome back! Can't wait to see your build progress. I have a 2012 Subaru Forester and did almost the exact same thing (evil tweets in the A-pillar, 6.5 Evils in front and rear doors ran off SSA IC150.4) but have a SSA Icon 12 in the cargo area. That Evil 15" is going to destroy your car, lol.
  6. firey_kimchi

    new member

    Welcome!
  7. firey_kimchi

    Aiming Tweeters

    First time going active and need some help with aiming tweeters. My vehicle is a JDM '12 Subaru Forester XS. H/U is Alpine CDA-9887. I've got SSA Evil tweeters in my A-pillars (in swiveling metal pods) and SSA Evil 6.5 mids in the front and rear doors. They're all being ran off a SSA IC150.4. Tweeters are on CH 1/2 and mids (x4) are on CH 3/4. Where should the tweeters be pointed/aimed? I've read several articles but they all say something different (point at the driver, point at opposite headrests, aim between seats up at the headliner, etc). Is it just trial and error? Anyone with these tweeters or helped with a system with these have any advice? Thanks. Oh yeah, currently the sub is an OG SSA 12" ICON ported (2.5ft^3 @ 30hz) but I might change to 2 12" Adire Audio Brahma Mk II sealed later.
  8. firey_kimchi

    Aiming Tweeters

    I appreciate your advice. Thank you!
  9. I'm not an expert but I wouldn't think there's too much of a difference, if any. Only way to find out for sure is to email/talk with Sundown Audio (https://sundownaudio.com/support/contact-us/) I've emailed them before and they got back to me within 1-2 days. I don't have Facebook but they might respond faster using that platform.
  10. Here's the manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/554907/Sundown-Audio-Saz-1500d.html?page=4#manual
  11. The amp is rated 800W RMS at 2 ohms so your sub will be fine. The 3000W at 2 ohms you listed is with 2 amps linked.
  12. firey_kimchi

    Icon Amps?

    From what I was told, the 1800 woofers site isn't correct as they haven't updated it yet to match the SSA site. I wanted another IC2200.1 too.
  13. firey_kimchi

    Wanted: SSA IC2200.1

    Looking for a new or slightly used IC2200.1 in good condition physically and mechanically. Thanks!
  14. firey_kimchi

    Wanted: SSA IC2200.1

    Thanks! I don't have Facebook but got in contact with him.
  15. firey_kimchi

    OG 12" ICON

    I scored this classic ICON the other day. It's brand new and has never seen power. it was in the original box from SSA with the stickers and brochure and the blue foam pads were still intact. I was told it was a D2 so I planned on wiring it in series and powering it with a US Acoustics 2300 at 4 ohms bridged. I hooked up the US Acoustics and it was screaming and then the fan kicked on immediately. I hooked up my DMM and found out the ICON is actually 1.5/1.6 ohms. So wiring in series results in 3.1 ohms and not 4 ohms. I just sold my US Amps USA-1000 so the only amp I have left that would be able to handle the new ohm load is an older US Amps USA-200. It's rated at 520W x 1 @ 2 ohms bridged. I know the older US Amps are underrated but do you think it'll be enough to push the ICON? I'm going to be putting it in a 1.1 cu/ft sealed enclosure. If it doesn't hit the lows like I think it should, I'll build a ported enclosure for it.
  16. firey_kimchi

    OG 12" ICON

    Thanks Lithium for the advice. I thought about swapping the outputs and using the HPF from the HU and the LPF on the amp but then I wouldn't be using the sub output. Would it really matter if I didn't connect the sub to the sub output and just connected it to the rear? Right now I have it connected to the sub output with my amp's gain set (with 40 Hz 0 dB test tone) with the sub level at +15 (0 ~ +15, pg 13). If I connected it to the rear outputs, I wouldn't be able to increase /decrease the sub level if it was too loud or not loud enough. I guess I could use the fader to try and control it. I still have some time before the MDF gets here (takes about 2 weeks). If the difference in power between the 2 amps is going to be negligible, I might just swap amps (probably the easiest fix). The temps are freezing and I hate working on the car in the cold weather without a garage.
  17. firey_kimchi

    OG 12" ICON

    Well, almost 4 years later and I'm finally going to build the ported box for the ICON! I'm using the pre-designed enclosure plans from the SSA site (2.5ft^3 @ 30 Hz) and am waiting for the MDF to be delivered. It's going to be in the same vehicle (JDM 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon Twin Turbo, stock alternator (100A), Bosch Hightec Premium AGM batt, big 3 (1/0), Alpine CDA-9887, and Kicker Impulse i525 coaxials). My question is: my current amp is a MMATS HiFi 4250 and it doesn't have a SSF. The ICON will be wired to 4 ohms and will see ~800W. I've read numerous threads and articles on SSFs and there hasn't been a definitive "yes" or "no" if it's needed or not. Some say for smaller subs (8") it is and others say for lower tuned enclosures (20-30Hz) it's not. Will powering the ICON (rated for 950W RMS), tuned at 30Hz, without a SSF be an issue with the given power? I listen to all genres of music but mainly old school rap, dubstep, and rock. My other option would be to power it with my SSA IC150.4 on Ch3/4 bridged (~550W @4 ohms) since that has a SSF. Previously, I had that amp powering it in the 1.1ft^3 sealed box but didn't sound like it was giving it enough power. Will ~550W be enough power in a ported enclosure? I appreciate all the assistance. Thanks!
  18. I bought a pair of used 12" Brahma MkII subs a few months back. When I hooked them up, the one has a slight noise to it (the other sub has no issues). At low volumes it wasn't really noticeable but with the volume turned up it was definitely noticeable. The noise originally sounded like the dust cap was loose (slight ticking sound). I checked the dust cap and it is secure. I pushed down on the cone to see if there was any noise/coil rub but there wasn't. The voice coils read like they should (1.5/1.6 ohms). I noticed that there was excess glue where the cone meets the spider (at the 1 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 7 o'clock positions) and the glue is pretty hard. If I put a little pressure on the spider near those areas when the sub is playing, the noise goes away. The spider is not cut. Otherwise, the Brahma is in excellent condition. Is there anything I can do to fix the noise? Or will it not matter when it's in an enclosure? I'm really hoping it doesn't need a recone. IMG_7095.HEIC IMG_9300.HEIC IMG_7570.HEIC
  19. firey_kimchi

    Adire Audio Brahma MkII Noise

    I put it in my 1.1ft^3 sealed enclosure for my Icon and it didn't make the ticking noise. Thanks!
  20. Updates? How did these sound?
  21. firey_kimchi

    Enclosure Design for SSA Icon 12

    You'll love the ICON! The SSA website has pre-designed enclosures (for free) listed towards the bottom of their site. http://www.ssaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/icon
  22. firey_kimchi

    Not a newbie, more like an veteran that's been out

    Glad to have you back!
  23. firey_kimchi

    Thiele-Small Parameters Database?

    I couldn't find the paper manual but I did find these on my laptop. Hope this helps! * Mounting Depth - 6.5” * Mounting Hole Diameter - 11” * Overall Diameter - 12.5” * Bolt Hole Circle - 11.75” * Motor Width - 6.25” * Motor Depth - 3.25” * Basket Depth - 3.25” * Displacement - 0.15 cu. ft. * Weight - 21 lbs. T/S Parameters: * Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.49 * Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 4.5 * Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.44 * Free Air Resonance -Fs: 25.1 Hz * Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 72.9 liters * One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 18 mm * Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 86.1 dB SPL * Effective Piston Area -Sd: 480 cm^2 * Force Factor -Bl: 17.7 * Thermal Power Handling -Pe: 600 W * Recommended Enclosures: * Sealed Compact: 0.75cf * Sealed Optimal: 1.0cf * Ported Compact: 1.5cf tuned @ 35Hz * Ported Optimal: 2.0cf tuned @ 33Hz
  24. firey_kimchi

    Thiele-Small Parameters Database?

    I used t o have a few of those. Let me look and see if I can find the orange manual/specs...
  25. Hey guys, I need your help. I decided to change out my substage and now I keep blowing fuses in the distro block after I start my car. Here's my old set-up: Vehicle: JDM 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon (Twin Turbo) Battery: Bosch Premium (American Bosch Platinum S5 equivalent) Big 3: Streetwires Ultra Flow 1/0 H/U: Alpine CDA-9887 Front Speakers: Kicker Impulse i525 Amp: US Amps USA-50 Subs: TC Sounds OEM 10 (x2) Amps: US Amps USA-200 (x2) **NEW Substage: Sub: 12" SSA ICON Amp: US Amps PT-1100 I've got 1/0 going from my battery (200A fuse) to my trunk and running into a 3-way distro block (fuse sizes are 25A, 60A, and 60A). From there, I've got (3) 8 gauge wires going to all 3 amps with 8 gauge grounds per amp. I've never had any problems or blown any fuses in the past 8 years with this electrical set-up. I decided to replace the OEM 10s with a classic 12" ICON and use my PT-1100 (2 power/2 ground inputs) to power it. When I removed all USA-200s, I noticed both grounds were all corroded on the car side (Okinawa weather). I tried to clean up that area with sandpaper and a Dremel but the area was pitting so I drilled 2 new ground holes (about 5 inches from the original grounding points) and sanded/used the Dremel to clean the area up. I cleaned up the USA-50's grounding point while I was at it, too. Afterwards, I covered all the grounds with RTV to prevent rust/corrosion. After I got everything hooked back up, I started the car and set the gain on the PT-1100. The amp was working (green power light stayed on). The (2) 60A fuses in the distro bock were fine. I wanted to set the low pass crossover so I used my CC-1. Right after I started setting the crossover, I noticed the low battery light on the CC-1 so I shut everything down and got a new 9V battery. When I started everything back up, I was having trouble getting the CC-1signal light to stay on (flash green then red). It was late at night so I decided to call it quits for the night and would start the next morning. This morning I started the car and turned on the CC-1 but I wasn't getting the signal light. I looked for the amp's green power light but it was not on so I looked at the fuses. Both 60A fuses were blown. The amp didn't smell like anything burnt/blew. The 25A fuse for my USA-50 was good. I swapped out both blown fuses and re-connected my battery (fuses were good). I started my car and went back to look at the distro block and both fuses blew again. I unmounted the PT-1100 and inspected it to see if something was burnt or damaged. The amp was good. I took it inside my house and hooked it up to my power supply and it was working without issues. I checked all the grounds for the Big 3 and the grounds going to the amps (0.0 - 0.1). The only thing I did different was moved the 2 grounds (5" from their original ground points) but they're reading 0.1 (good). What do I do next?
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