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SomeGuyDude

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About SomeGuyDude

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  1. Actually screw it. I'm not doing this dumb argument any more, haha. I'll take what I got so far, make a decision, and just be happy with it. Big thanks to the folks here who actually helped out!
  2. I'm saying they do based on the manufacturer recommendations and the fact that when I plug them all into WinISD I get a pretty good curve going (particularly for the Lethal and the DC). I'm trying VERY hard to get you to at least start to explain WTF I'm supposedly missing but it's like pulling friggin teeth with you. What. Math. Is. A. Fail?
  3. LOL I have noticed no one really talks DC any more. The Lethal Injection is looking like my winner here. Fantastic curve from 30-50 in my box, and from what I've heard it can take more than 600 happily (I'm thinking around 800-1000?). My thinking is use an MB Quart ONX1.1500D, get a Lethal Injection D4 and keep the gains low, that way if I really want I can get a 2nd one. Yay? Nay? BIG thanks to Quentin and stefan here.
  4. Understood. Makes sense. I suppose that's why graphing things out is helpful, yeah?
  5. Well sure that's a factor, but I mean there's gotta be a lot more to it than that. The Lethal Injection has literally double the xmax (13 vs 26mm) and, well, it DOES map really nicely in WinISD, smooth curve with no weird peak. Hm.
  6. I know it's not an exact thing, but that's the ol' "rule of thumb" I'd heard before. Fired up WinISD (had to enter the w3 manually because it's a new model), and it gives me a port speed of .05, which is in green. So acceptable, according to the software. Just outta curiosity, what specifically are we hoping to do with this? Best I can guess is figure out which driver maps best against my box (winner so far: DC Level 3, close tie with Lethal Injection).
  7. Well first off this is like super basic geometry, so you can believe that my math is correct. You're right about the box volume, and I thought the same thing, but again I put my trust in PWK on that one and assumed that he had his reasons for that suggestion. But one bonus of that is that it's a pretty standard box size/tuning. Haven't calculated the port speed, but if memory serves the rule was always about 12sq inches of port area per 1cu foot of net volume (foot per foot, ne?) so we have that in the right region as well.
  8. Yeah. I did all that. That's how I got the volume and tuning numbers (with an assist from http://www.carstereo...icles.cfm?id=31 double check the tuning). The non-port region is 12.5*22.5*14.5 = 4078.128, divide by 1728 and you get around 2.36. Port is 2.25x12.5 = 28.125" of port area, and it's about 30" long, so according to that jigger it's around 31Hz, my mistake. I got 30 by neglecting to account for sub displacement. 2.2cu tuned to 31Hz, roughly. What math is a "fail" here?
  9. Dude you keep saying the drivers don't match the box and I'm saying they do, and you're not even remotely explaining how you came about this conclusion. The sentence "And for pretty much all the drivers you listed, the math on the enclosure is a fail." doesn't actually mean anything. How is the math a fail? And what math are you assuming I did?
  10. Well which math are you referring to? I'm more than happy to chug away with number crunching on my own, but you can't just say "DO MATH" and then act like that was useful. What math was I supposed to do that showed me why it's a fail? And which part is the fail? You didn't empower anything. I much prefer learning to being given answers but if your answer is "lol math" then where am I supposed to go with that? What math did I do wrong?
  11. Sub and port are both back already. I thought that was kinda obvious in the picture. You'd be surprised at the music that goes to 30 and lower too, LOL. Lot of rap these days seems to enjoy dipping down into the 20s.
  12. Boy you just know a way into a girl's heart, don't ya? Anywhoo, I'm exaggerating the L7's SQ. It just didn't sound particularly musical. The box made it pound like hell and I enjoyed it while I had it. How is the math on the enclosure a fail? Box recs from the websites: PSI P1: Ported - 1.75-2.5 ft^3 SSA GCon: 2.00-2.50ft^3 @ 28-33hz (not optimal) Fi SSD: Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 33Hz Lethal Injection: 1.75 cubes - 2.5 cubes, 25 - 40 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Now unless my math is worse than I realized, 2.2cu at 30Hz seems to be right around where all four of those like to sit (a little low tuning for the SSD). My budget isn't $200. I just ballparked that because on much beefier subs I'm gonna need to do way more than upgrade my amp. If I'm going up to a 1500RMS sub I'm not gonna be able to sail along on my stock electrical system. And as for PWK themselves (they gave me the specs, I built), my understanding is they actually throw all the various parameters of the specific driver rather than just doing a simple "tune box volume X to frequency Y". Because I've done the math on box building before. If all they're doing over there is slapping a random volume into an equation to get a port length for a given frequency, yeah I coulda done it myself but I'd seen them recommended before. Did I miss anything?
  13. That it is. Upfacing didn't sound right.
  14. I'm chiefly looking for more output. The w3 sounds gravy but it definitely has a bit of a volume cap that the mids and highs don't. I don't want it to be farting along like my old L7 15 but it doesn't have to be flawless on the SQ side. Price is in the 200-250 area, yeah. You really think none of the others are an upgrade from a w3? First I've heard that, honestly. The box was a PWK design, I gave him the full description. Sub/power/trunk/music, that's what came back. I dunno.
  15. The title was supposed to say "I got specifics", but apparently that was too long, LOL. I know these are always awful, but I swear I've done my reading/searching and I'm not just saying "OMG U GUYS I WANNA SUB 2 POUND". I am, however, criminally indecisive so I might need a boost here. I drive a 2010 Honda Fit. If you've seen one, you know there ain't a lot of space back there. I have a 12" JL w3 in a PWK designed box (built it myself, woo) and a 2.2cu ported box takes up this much space: So space is kind of a premium here. There's maybe an extra inch of depth I have but that's it, so nothing that'd need a big box (which is why I'm sticking with a 12, I'd need to strangle a 15 to get it back there). Plus to be 100 I'm kinda hoping I can still use the current box, LOL. It's a great enclosure, 2.2cu net tuned around 29Hz if my calculations were correct. If I really need to, sure, I can build another. Again, it's a Honda Fit, which means the battery is the size of a deck of cards. So the biggest amp I'm heading for is one that's about 1000RMS. Any more and a simple Big 3 ain't gonna cut it. I'm not buying a new alternator, no sir. New battery maybe. I'm not listening to symphonies and smooth jazz, nor am I just trying to burp shit out at 45Hz for competitions. I want a nice daily driver that'll extend down to 30Hz with authority and suit good ol' bass heavy music. I do have the entire rest of the system upgraded, for the record. It's not stock with a sub. I'm Alpine Type R 6.5" components in all four doors plus tweets mounted up top, running off the amp on the right in that picture. They get loud as balls, which is good because much as I want my chest fluttering, I don't want the rest of the music to get drowned out. The frontrunners are the PSI P1, Incriminator Lethal Injection, SSA GCON, and Fi SSD. I was about to pull the trigger on an RE Sxx, but apparently those are shit now, haha. Any suggestions?
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