I have a XS Power as a starting battery, 2 runs of 0gauge to my rear batt which is a Deka. I'm wanting to add another deka in the rear and wanted to know if I need to do 2 runs of wire to connect the rear batts together or will 1 run suffice.

Thanks

The box will be for two 15 inch SSA EVIL series subs. But for right now i have two dc lvl 4 15's that will go into the box temporarily. So it will be designed mainly around the EVIL's.

The car its going into is a 2007 Scion Tc. 

I measured out max dimensions and came up with a box that i think turned out very well. i wanted it tuned low, mid 30's and low 31's maybe. 

Heres what i came up with:::

Pic from sketchup 

(Copied and pasted from MS word)

Box Measurements Maximum limits for the SCION TC

                Width =    37 inch max (pushing)

                Depth =    38 inch max (also pushing)

                Height =     15 inch max after double baffled

                                14.25 inch height before baffle and 12.75 internal height for mounting depth

Subwoofer Displacement- .22 per sub (EVIL SSA 15) = .44 total

                                                                .21  per sub (DC LVL 4 15) = .42 total

Bracing Displacement = Using 2x4’s(1.5”x3.5”) = ( .125x.292x??? )

                Using max internal Height – Up and down bracing – 1.5”x3.5”x12.75”.039 CuFt x3 (Three braces)

                                Total displacement in CuFt = 0.117CuFt

                Using max Width internal – Side to side (Port wall to right wall) 1.5”x3.5”x35.5” .108CuFtx2(two braces)

                                Total displacement in CuFt = 0.216CuFt 

                Using max Depth internal – front to back bracing – 1.5”x3.5”x36.5” .111CuFtx2 (also two braces)

                                Total displacement in CuFt = 0.222CuFt

Box bracing displacement for max measurement specs – Total = 0.555 CuFt

Total Box Displacement for max dimensions including woofers and braces

                Using
SSA EVIL 15’s = .995 CuFt displacement

                Using
DC LVL 4 15’s = .975 CuFt displacement

8.1CUFT without displacement

7.105 cuft displacement with EVIL 15’s and bracing

7.125 cuft with dc 15’s and bracing

Port dimensions 12.75 H x 7.5 W =95.625sqin

                With
EVIL 15’s – SqIn of port per cuft = 13.5

                With DC
LVL 4 15’2 – SqIn of port per cuft = 13.4

Tuning with EVIL 15’s = 30.47 Hz tune

Tuning with DC 15’2 = 30.425 Hz tune

Does all of this look correct? Am i missing anything that is throwing me off or is this perfect? 

The amp is an Audioque 1200d running at 1ohm, so its making right around 1200w. 

Not really sure which route to go for a battery.  Should I look in to an Optima or Interstate type battery, or go the route of an XS battery?

It would be the main/only battery and used for daily use in both really warm and cold temps.

Here
are some pictures, and when I have it installed hopefully a little bit
later today I will update with pics. For those of you who already own an
SSA subwoofer this will be nothing new for you (but probably brings
back some great memories!). For those sitting on a fence trying to
decide which way to go??? ....

I have to say as far as shipping goes, SSA gets an SSA+.

Holy shit you guys do this right!

You guys even included a living room table!

My son playing in the box.

15" Xcon vs 12" Pioneer shallow mount sub...no contest.

A few screen shots...

I was pretty discouraged when i measured my dimensions. I don't think i can raise the seat as it's mounted to the sides of the cab. My options are wide open. I am willing to do anything from 8s to a single 12" (doubtful). I'm not sure I can make a ported design work but I guess it's possible.

Any advice or suggestions?

Thanks!

Jhovani came over today and he asked me if we could put his box from his bed into his cab.

So that's what we did.. Unscrewed the box from the mounts, cut the wire and freed the box.

This build was done probably 10 years ago so the truck and the subs weren't in the greatest condition.

The rattling from the truck and subs was horrendously loud from the interior and exterior.

He always told me he thought he had some old 15in JBLs over the last year or so, which JBL makes some high quality subs so I figured they pretty nice.

But it turned out they were the old Rockford Power HX2 15s as stated on the dustcap.

Anyways once we got them in the cab and rerouted the wires we noticed the passenger side sub, was what was rattling like crazy.

Originally when I heard his subs in the blowthrough it sounded like maybe one of them was blown.

I touched the dustcap and the rattling stopped, I figured it was the dustcap was loose at first, but realized it stopped when I also touched cone itself.

I tested if it was the cap by taping up the cap (typically from what Ive experienced, if its the cap the rattling will stop).

The rattling continued, so I decided it would be best if we took the woofer out and see if their is any internal damage visible.

As soon as we lifted it up  out of the box I realized this is Rockford's big 4in Voice coil sub.

Pretty cool as I have never seen a 4in coil before.

I looked over the sub, and initially didn't notice any damage, I lifted up the coil with the cone, and that made the issue very apparent.

The spider was almost completely detached except where the leads were.

I took some simple green cleaner, and cleaned the edge, and the rest of the sub as they were dusty.

Took some stripper and me and Jhovani rubbed the edge to try and clean and remove some of the old fragments of glue and such.

We then used some epoxy and coated the edges, we had a little trouble with that, because the tip had broken when I opened the epoxy.

As I was putting the epoxy on it was coming out the sides and everywhere, we lost most of the first tube...

We got most of the spider epoxied on, but there was a couple places namely by the leads where we didn't get enough, but I was out.

Currently we are waiting overnight for it to dry, and see if this fixes most of the rattling.

On a very good note the coils were shiny and looked brand new, which I thought was pretty impressive since he has hammered on these 15s for years.

Thought I'd post the little experience, since it was kind of an unexpected thing today. Some of you may find it interesting.

I don't know too much about older subwoofers, namely these, so you guys will have to give me a history lesson on these and your opinions

Sorry also if this in the wrong section, I figured this one would be fine though.

Just poppin in to say I will be poppin in alot more. Got alot of builds to post up and get some ideas for 2 of my personal rides I am attempting to outfit at the same time. I doubt it will happen like that, but I will try.

Soooooooooo, whats new?

Also I don't think the soundstream amps are putting out 2000w rms. would a more efficient amp help too. maybe an better amp with about the same rms power as the subs (1800w rms) not to risk blowing my subs....

advice please

Also, heres a short video today i threw together of me and my "dancing boost gauge" and caseys zcon 12s puttin in some work.. also rollin some coal at the end for all the haters

Enjoy!

P.S.. please ignore the music in between videos!

 i have done many stereos for him over the years.  so when he got a new truck he gave me free range and a budget,

 its a new truck so he didnt want to hack it up.. i understand that so....

 head unit will be

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/DVD-Receivers/AVH-P4400BH

box will be for 2 sundown SD-10s

 and the amp will be a older Memphis PR 1000.1 a nice underrated amp.

will be wired with 0 gauge that i have here at home, and we will be adding some speakers to the doors soon

 pictures soon

 For those of you who don't know me my name is Mark and I am the man behind "Car Audio Fabrication" on YouTube. I have posted build threads before (like this one: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/57168-video-build-log-fi-bl-rockford-fosgate-focal-knukonceptz-tip/ ) and if you have ever seen one you know that I love to mix in "How To" Videos throughout the build that describe the process and show each step. This build will be no different! well, it will a little bit because I am going to try to mix in a lot more pictures for your viewing pleasure!

I love to help other car audio enthusiasts young and old, newb and veteran, so if you see something you have a question about ASK!  

The Vehicle:

Chevy Duramax 2500 HD Extended
Cab (Will add pics soon)

The Gear:

Alpine Type R's 6.5" Component Speakers

10" JL Audio W3

Knukonceptz wiring

Wirecare.com wire protection products

Alpine MRP-M500

Alpine MRP-F300

The Install:

Custom Fiberglass Door Pods with Vinyl Wrapped Inserts to accent interior and match sub enclosure

Custom Fiberglass Subwoofer Enclosure (Specs to Follow)

The Goal:

Quality sound that integrates well with the vehicle and requires little to know permanent vehicle modification. (No cutting of panels allowed!)

My Goal:

Teach the readers of this thread as much about the fabrication of the pods and sub enclosure, as well as the install as I can.

Let's begin!

We started with collecting some
of the gear, the ownder of the vehicle wanted to re-use his Alpine Component
Speakers and JL Subwoofer, I talked him into purchasing a MRP-F300 which is the
exact same foot print as the MRP-M500 and will allow for a really clean
install.

The components:

The sub:

The amplifier: (Still need pics
of the 4 channel)

I then determined what was
needed wiring wise and put in an order with my friends over at Knukonceptz.com:

I am very excited to use their
new product the KNF-60, we were one of the first to get a production unit and I
was really impressed with using it in a different build so I decided to get one
for this one as well:

All of the wiring in this build
will be protected by Techflex which I recieved from our show sponsor
WireCare.com . They really have some great products and the "snake"
style techflex will look awesome with the tan and black truck.

Its crazy how many colors of
this stuff there is!

Now the EXCITING stuff!

I made these outer insert
templates with a series of router techniques and skills, I discuss them in the
video.

The idea is they will insert
into the pod and can be wrapped with a different material or painted to accent
the install. Here you can see I will mount the woofer from the rear, and the
tweeter is flush mounted:

Finally I added some low temp
plastic around the base template so that the top insert could lay flush. I show
how I do this in the video as well.

Well thats all for now, let me
know what you think! Add this thread to your book marks and check back often!

In the meantime I have been looking for a box to put it in. I immediately went over to the Khaotic enclosures to see what they had for a ported single 12. At first I found exactly what I was looking for, A low tuned box, Nicely built, For a good price. However After taking more measurements, I realized that the box isn't going to fit in my 03 Mercury Sable.

I went back onto the forums to see if I could find anything else. I came across the DC creations boxes and I filled out an inquiry to get a quote on a box. I still have not gotten a response over the past few days.

I don't have the materials or equipment to build a box by myself, so I am dead-set on purchasing a box online.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

            Kyle

P.S.- Max box specs are looking like 32"L x 14"H x 18"D

I've recently teamed up with Arkansas Car Stereo here in Little Rock and we're looking to add a few good installers to the team, so if you've got the skills and take pride in your work then we definitely want to talk to you. You can stop by any Tue-Fri between 9-5 and ask for Mack Thompson, Jack Todd or myself Rick Holmes or you can submit your resume to Mack at wmtacs@yahoo.com

Thanks...Rick

has anyone ever ran into an amp like this? i know somethinng is wrong with it even if it is playing somewhat.

im def gonna try n return the soundstream amps again and get a Crescendo 3500 of SSA that ought to take car of the issue haa

i have two sets of images its this album. a 33hz tune and a 36hz tune. i intend to build the entire box minus one side (leaving it to be held on by only screws) and change out the port as i test the subs volume. once i have things set ill glue on the final side.

i would greatly appreciate it if someone would check my math and offer and criticism on what i have laid out here.   thank you very much.

"Who would be interested in a 4" Coil, 12/15/18" SPL Monster woofer? 2500 Watt RMS Power Rating (Conservative). 

A little side project prototype I am currently working on - if there is enough demand I will probably put them into production, I personally love the idea of making them 

- 6 Layer Spider
- High Roll Competition Grad Foam Surround
- Ultra Strong Paper Cone
- 20mm Top and Back Plate
- 4 PC Ferrite Magnet Motor Assembly (220mm)
- Qts 0.52"

I cant get over how Familiar this looks to a new sub woofer coming out from another company...

I live in the Jefferson-town (J-Town) area (40299-3520) of Louisville Kentucky & I was wondering if any of you guys would know or recommend any box builders in the Louisville Kentucky or Southern Indiana Area. I just want someone who is good at what they do & will give me a fair price. I figure that cutting out shipping costs will save me at least $100.00 & with someone local they can actually see my car & build what I am actually looking for.
      Thanks
                 Mike

Some help from you guys would be great... What programs can search your photos for data in that manner?

My Xcon was in extra awesome condition.... Found out that today my father was moving stuff in their garage and boom he calls me to say he thinks he hit it with a piece of plywood he was moving ... 

There is now a puncture/tear about 1/3 of an inch maybe less.... What can I use to fix it/glue it? I know I don't want to "melt" the surround material with normal glue but what should I be using? The subwoofer won't see any action for a while so cure time is no issue..... Let me know..

Sad that this fcking subwoofer was sitting in that garage 8-9 months or more with no issues... he moved the box from the original corner I had it in which didn't expose the subwoofer to anything but a wall AND I put wooden blocks at the base to keep it from touching the wall .... FML!!!!!

Thanks for any and all help fellas!!!

I've heard that you need a special primer, but I wasn't sure. I did a search but most places said use primer as a general term and didn't specify a certain kind of primer or anything.

I need know to smooth out and prime my old DCON boxes and also some SSA logo cutouts.

Thanks

So I was looking at amps as I always do... I just love fcking looking at them.... pricing out what I like and then starting all over again...

Recently went to woofersetc and found this company 'Wet Sounds' The pricing is around the same ball park of ZED Audio... These are "marine" products apparently but they look pretty nice. Anyone ever heard of them before? They pretty much make everything.. A $700 subwoofer is available too... GEEZ!!!

         I would like to know if I had 2 ssa xcon motors & purchased 2 recone kits with 2 12" baskets what would the total cost be including shipping & everything. Do I just buy everything in the store & wait for the shipping info to send them in? What would the wait time be if I were to send in the motors to have them built up & reconed into subs. 

My zip code is 40299

                                Thanks for your help

any info is appreciated

whenever his car is off it doesnt hum. even when the stereo is off and the car is on it will hum. we did hook up another pair of rca's to my amps output and ran my signal to his amps inputs and it worked flawlessly. does that eliminate the possibility of a bad ground? ground loop isolator might not even work because the ground is okay because it didnt have the humming when we used my signal?

sometimes out of nowhere the subs will boom uncontrollably very loud to the point where it looks like theyre moving dangerously too much

not trying to sound like a noob but im really kinda embarrassed i couldnt help my buddy out when i couldnt understand what was going on

help please!

Larger than I expected it to be.

It's in beautiful shape with only a few minor scratches.

I'd always heard that 10 and 12 inch subs sounded cleaner, and that they would hit the higher bass range (60-90hz) much better than a 15 or an 18.

After a lot of reading here on this site, my conclusion is that this is only the case with much cheaper "entry level" drivers where the manufacturer just attaches a larger cone to a low powered motor for easy SPL gain.  With a subwoofer such as the SSD15, would there be very good frequency response all through the sub-bass range? My new understanding is that the only difference between a ssd12 and an ssd15, provided they are both "stock" is that the 15 inch driver will be slightly more responsive to less power because of it's higher sensitivity.

my kicker CVR12s were in a ported box tuned @ 40hz. I want a much smoother, flatter response than I had with them. So i've been thinking about getting an SSD15 in a sealed enclosure with the High-QTS option. I suppose I would go about 2 cubic ft before subtracting the subwoofer displacement. So about 1.8 cu ft sealed. Given this application, what kind of results should I expect? Wider/smoother/tighter frequency response and better SQ? More SPL? The 2 CVR 12s together have a rating of 800RMS, which puts the two of them not that far behind the SSD in RMS power, but as I have been lead to believe based on other parameters...the SSD15 @1000+ RMS is simply a completely different animal and it will absolutely annihilate the CVRs in every aspect.

I listen to many different kinds of music, and want a more SQ oriented setup than i've had, so that's why I'm leaning towards sealed. Of course I could also go ported (as I'm sure many of you will suggest), and I have the room to do so. I just want to be sure if I go with a 15" that it will have plenty of loud, clear, and clean output between 30-90hz. 

I'll either be putting it on a Hifonics BRZ1700.1D (I keep hearing that the BRZ series is the only one worth a damn) or this Hifonics GLX1400.1D (I haven't heard much of anything about it, but it is CEA2006 compliant.)

Any input/advice is greatly appreciated!

whats a decently priced block that can split my 1/0 off to a 1/0 and 8 gauge wire.

how can i tell if its wired at 4 or 8 ohms ?

and if it was at 4 ohms would an s4 sub work ? or only d4

 so the options are 3 8s sealed or 2 8s ported im leaning to sealed as he listens to country ,.

  the issue i am having is finding out how much space is left between the back of the seat and the box.. so i can make sure the subs wont hit...

  im looking at the sundown SD 8s  or the sundown E8v-2 if there is not much space left./

 has anyone done an install on a crewcab 2008-2013?

I really prefer using the split barrel over the solid like most of what you see.  Like this:

I found some on amazon for $2 each.  I know I can use the solid barrel but they all seem so damn bulky.  Well, not that 3/0 isn't bulky anyway but I'm not trying to have a huge stack of crap on all my connections either.  Nor am I trying to spend $100 on some terminals.

Anyone have any good reliable sources to look at?  Any suggestions?  I'm not totally against using the solid barrel lugs if they are fairly compact.

Usually I use something like the Knu terminals and call it a day but they don't offer anything that large.  

Thanks!

Plans are RF Punch Pro 6'' or 8'' in the doors below the factory speaker locations and the Punch Pro Tweeters in the factory 4'' locations. Rear speakers will be disconnected and a pair of DR's or DP's in the trunk, haven't decided yet. Just some pictures of it during the clean up.

http://instagram.com/paradymedrew#

I'll take some more with the phone's normal camera next time. Sorry it's an Instagram link.

My question is, In a car audio environment, where my power wire run will be no greater than 17 ft, is the difference in conductivity enough to make a noticeable  (to me as an average consumer) difference?  If not overdrawing or improperly fused?

As an example: 4 awg run 60 amp fuse less than 12" from battery to amplifier that has a max current draw of 60 amps with a total length of the run being 12 ft?  Amp ground at 18" on 4awg as well?

Or say doing big 3 upgrade with 1/0 wire running above mentioned equipment/main power run to the back?