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Showing results for tags 'RMS'.
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Box Rise better or worse with one amp per sub vs one amp total?
DedicatedEnthusiast posted a topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / ElectricalHello jw if box rise is influenced whatsoever by the number of amplifiers used in a system set up or if it is essentially the same regardless of how many amplifiers are used to power a set of drivers
My Taramp HD8000 Review
Sencheezy posted a topic in Product ReviewsOk guys, here is MY personal Review of the Taramp HD8000 I personally own Three of them. I purchased two use from DangRebel here, and the third directly from Shizzzon. One of used ones from DangRebel went into protect immediately upon hooking up. And the BNIB from Shizzzon also went into protect while demoing Sunday afternoon while at Slamology. Here is a few pictures of my installation for Reference. On the chargers. So to explain my experience in total. My system consist of One DC Power 240XP, 100ft of 3/0, Ten Batteries. I also should mention I run each amp at 1.5 ohm, the amps are the Two ohm version. Now, the drive down to Indiapolois is about 5 hours long. For the better half of the trip, I would turn the gain up half way, couldn't take much more than that, (pressure wise). So the most my voltage would drop would be .1-.3 Volts. During some testing at the shop, we clamped 3200 watts starting at 2.7 rising to 8.1 pulling a little over 300 amps of current. The first time demoing there that Friday night, I was able to burn up 2 300 amp fuses while playing full tilt after 2 or 3 songs. Replaced the fuses, back up and running. Saturday, I beat ALL DAY. Was still having engine issues. So for 87% of my demos were at battery voltage. Since the engine was off, that also means no rear A/C to cool them, still no issues. Yes, they did get warm. On sunday, got warm enough to not hold your hand longer than 30 seconds. But again, it wasn't THAT hot lol. To describe how the amps are mounted. The rear wall is 3" thick of High Quality MDF. Which an another layer of 3/4" wood mounting plate is attached. Then the steel rack. Then the amps are mounted onto an 3/4" MDF mounting baffle, that is mounted onto the steel amp rack. Shizzzon informed me that there was still too much vibration, and wired too low, which is why the bottom amp failed. I was able to verify that the amps were indeed moving, but from what I could see, it was only becuase the truck itself was moving. Not much else I can do about that. So in sum, these amps, in my opinion, are the better choice for us in every aspect, EXCEPT durability. If you think of where these amps come from and their origin, it makes sense for what I see is their biggest flaw. These amps are MUCH more sensitive than Koreans. The output section especially. We had I believe 3 other Team IAK members whom amps failed as well. One was becuase the wrong gauge was used for the speaker cable. One was for no reason, there's mine, and one other. So, for advice for other users. It is ok to run these amps, they do power, cheap, small, and stupid efficient. To run these long term usage, have these key items. 2-3 Group 31s PER HD8000. Use the appropriate size for the output section. 8 gauge min. Ensure there is NO to VERY min. vibration. And wire to the proper ohm load. I wouldn't even risk burping lower than rated. Do not count on box rise. Please note, that the ENTIRE weekend I beat the living piss out of my system lol. Most people, demo for 20-30 seconds at most per demo. I would play full songs full tilt, had no issues. I played my system for at least 4-10 hours in total over the weekend. The amps gave me no issues until Sunday afternoon. Which was a much hotter day, maybe 5-10 degrees more. There was no smoke, just protect light. Yes there was troublshooting performed. Turn system off, let cool down, unplug everything, let cool down, remove RCA/Speaker cables, etc. Moving forward, I will Continue to run these amps. At four ohms each for now, then at World finals run at 2 ohms.
SSA Zcon Power Handling Question
Welterc50 posted a topic in Subwoofers / SpeakersAlright guys, I finally got my build up and running (its in the build log section if you need to see it) and I am asking myself if I need more power. Currently I am running an AB1100.1, and during testing had it wired up but scored a 150.2. After wiring it down for peak power from the amp it scored a 154.2. Te reason I ask this is because these subs seem to be laughing at that amp.. I mean I know they are underrated at 2250 RMS but they literally only move 3/4 of an inch at most (20-30hz) and get stupid loud in that box. I am looking to add more batteries, maybe another alt, and maybe gonna add another AB1100.1. I am just worried that the 3" coil wont be able to handle it at full power.. Anybody have any ideas on what they think they could take (I only give clean power), or know of anyone who has had these up around that power level?
Power Handling Fi BTL 18 fully loaded "daily"
Dustydz402 posted a topic in Fi TechnicalHey may be a dumb question but does the power handling differ from the original specs with the xmax coil and the cooling package added to the sub??? its the n2