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Showing results for tags 'dayton'.
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Am currently looking at subwoofers to upgrade from my lowly Powerbass S-10D's. Have been running a Lightning Audio 1001.d monoblock @ 1 ohm for the last year, and every time I get it cranking, the amp shuts off after 10-15 minutes, blowing fuses. I am running a 250 amp alternator, and a brand new 1000ca/800cca battery, with 1/0 run back to my distribution block, and a 14" 4ga run to the amp, with the big 3 under the hood. Will be adding a second battery, under the hood, as there is a second battery tray. I really don't want to run much more power than what I already have, as I don't want to get into having to add a dual alternator, or putting another battery in the back. Probably looking at a1200-1500 watt amp, possibly Skar or Audiopipe, just depends on what I can find for a deal. The Powerbass subs are only rated at 350 watts rms, I'd like to be able to run a clean 600-750 to each. I haven't found much out there for a sub that has a high sensitivity, other than the Dayton's below. Most 10" subs that can handle 500 watts rms or more only have a sensitivity from 83-87db, these Dayton's are supposedly 90.5db. If I remember correctly, it takes double the power to achieve 3db more in output - if that's so, then these Daytons with 600 watts would have the same output as a different sub pushed by 1200 watts at a 87.5db sensitivity, or 2400 watts pushing a sub with 83.5db sensitivity. I know that Dayton is primarily a home audio company, but these have me intrigued. Specs look decent, and what other content I've found online seems to agree. If not these, then make another suggestion for a higher-sensitivity 10" sub, that will work in a 1.25-1.3cu ft enclosure (mine is about 2.8 cubes, less sub and port displacement). https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-463
Okay, this little build will be going into my 1992 Oldsmobile 88. I bought the car about 7 years ago right after I started working for the pipeline I'm working for now. I got a hell of a deal on it and got it so that I had a car just for driving to work so my wife would still have the van to drive at home. I only drove the car for a couple of years before I bought the Jimmy and right after that I gave the Olds to my mother and father in law to drive because their car broke down and my mother in law was having to run around to doctors and things for her cancer treatments and such. Well fast forward from then and I find myself with the Jimmy out of commission and my father in law wasn't driving the Olds anymore because he had gotten his own car. So he gave the car back to me so I could have something to drive to work again. Just before I gave the car to him to drive I had dropped an OLD Pioneer CD player I had bought used on Ebay for $20 to put in the car because the factory radio didn't work. I also put a pair of Hifonics Zeus Components I had lying around from another project in the rear deck in place of the bad factory 6x9's. It still sucked but it made music. Now after driving the car awhile again I've gotten fed up with the damned thing. Only one of the mids in the Zeus components are working anymore and the front factory tweeter/mid thing in the front doors are shot. So I've picked up a little bit of stuff I got for cheap and I'm hopefully going to get it sounding better than it is right now. I'm also going to use this little build as an experiment as well on some ideas I have floating around in my head. The equipment going in: Pioneer DEH-X7500HD - Used a discount I had on hand at SonicElectronix to get it for under $80 Aura 4x6 coax's - On clearance at PE. I don't normally mess with oval speakers and such but for their clearance price I wanted to try them out. Going in the front doors. Dayton SD215A-88 - Used a promo code here and got them for $19 each. Going to use the pair as dedicated midbasses in the rear deck. JBL GTO1004 - Already have it on hand, will use it's internal crossovers to run the Aura's up out of harms way and utilize the Dayton's in the midbass range. We'll see how it turns out. It should be a fairly quick and easy build. The goal is simply to get something that sounds reasonably good with better overall response than it has now and able to get more volume out of it than it can produce now, especially without the front speakers sounding like they're going to puke on every drum hit even at low listening levels.