Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'wiring'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • SSA® Store
    • SSA® Store
  • Announcements, Events, and New Member Sign In
    • Newbie Sign IN
    • News, Announcements, and Lobby
    • Competitions & Other Organized SPL/SQ Events
  • Main Sections
    • General Audio
    • Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
    • Subwoofers / Speakers
    • SPL & SQ / Fabrication
    • Sound Deadening
    • Build Logs
    • Home Audio
    • Classifieds Feedback
  • Show Off
    • Videos
    • Photography
  • Technical Reference Center
    • Advanced Discussion
    • Technical Info & How To's
    • Product Reviews
  • Manufacturer's
    • Adire Audio
    • Ampere Audio
    • Crescendo Audio
    • Incriminator Audio
    • Khaotik Enclosures
    • Mechman High Output Alternators
    • Second Skin Audio
    • Sound Solutions Audio (SSA®)
    • Synergy Audio
    • US Acoustics
    • XS Power
    • Manufacturer Archive
    • Your Section Here!
  • Other Audio resources
    • 1800WOOFERS.com
    • LaFountain Design
    • Resources Archive
  • Team Sections
    • Team Decent
    • Team IAK
    • Team SSA
    • Your Section Here!
  • Classifieds
    • For Sale/Wanted
  • Automotive & Performance
    • Automotive and Performance
  • Off Topic
    • Off Topic
    • Hall Of Fitness
    • Computers / Electronics / Music / Games

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL





Real Name




Found 7 results

  1. I'm nearing the finish line in an installation that includes a new HU with FT/RT, FR/LT RR/RT RR/LT, and a SUB output, plus an unmarked, unidentified in the manual, RCA output on the back of the HU next to the SUB output. I have a 5 channel amp that has Channels 1(white), 2(red), 3(white) and 4(red) marked clearly on the amp, plus a SUB RT(white) and SUB LFT(red) input, all input by RCA. The same amp has 4 sets of output terminals, 1 each for + & -. It also has 2 terminals for the sub (+ & -), which connects to the sub on R &L posts. So, first question: How do I run a cable from the HU, which is 1 RCA connection, to the AMP, which has both LT and RT RCA input connections? Second question: I also have the White, Grey, Green, Violet (+&-'s) hooked up from the HU to the wiring harness that goes to the speakers. The reason for this was that I have six speakers placements: 2 6.5" in the front doors, 2 6.5" in the rear doors. In the dash, I removed the tweeters that were in a plate and replaced them with Infinity Kappa20's midrange speakers that have bandpass crossovers that handle 550hz-7Mhz hooked up. Just to confuse things more, The manual for the amp shows The channel 1 speaker attached to the channel 2 output terminals(+&-) and the channel 2 speaker (+&-) attached to the channel 1 terminals. Channels 3 and 4 are where I expect them, 3 & 4. And then again for the SUB it has + and - terminals to go to + & - posts on the SUB. I've routed every plug in every location and checked each speaker, one by one by changing the fader/balance in different combinations to determine what's going on. What I sense I'm doing wrong is that I'm wiring RCA cables with both RT/LT wires into the AMP to the HU when both only want a single signal cable each going into each jack. One single wire each that somehow is carrying both the Positive and Negative in it, versus a double speaker wire that goes into a positive/negative RCA male connector. So that leaves the sub with one single output HU going to the AMP which has a R(white) and L(red) female connector. And then the 5th channel +&- going to the +&- on the SUB input. The reason I have the HU output speaker wires (white,grey,green,violet) going to the speakers is because of the Dash Unit speakers. They're tapped into those 4 in the wiring harness where I can't get to them, but run from the HU from 4 wires to 6 different speakers). Again, the dash speakers are 2" Infinity midranges with bandpass crossovers connected to each which came with them. I just noticed they are 2.5 ohm, and everything else is 4 ohm, which is worrisome. Is there a wiring genius out there that can understand what's going on and tell what I have wrong? There's also a whine coming from the front right dash speaker and possibly the right(passenger side) door speakers. I have the power cable far from the speaker wires on either sides of the vehicle. But I'm sure it has with the larger wiring issue at hand. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. This is a crazy puzzle. Here's a diagram I made to make it more visual:
  2. scud

    Wiring 2 dvc 2 ohm subs

    Hi everyone please any help How do you wire 2 dual voice coil subs that are 2 ohms and i have a 2 channel amp ( http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-VIBE2102N-2-Channel-MOSFET-Amplifier/dp/B00BN7XQG4 ) i want to know how to wire them up to the amp at the 2 x 2400 Watts @ 2 Ohms RMS i have come across this page http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_2ch.jpg%C2'> but does that mean that each sub is wired for 4 ohms. Any help maybe i am missing something or its something so simple but this is my first build and the subs are 2 12" Fi BT series and this is the only amp i have for now. If this amp is not adequate after help with the wiring i would love to know any good deals on amps that could power these subs any help would be greatly appreciated.


    So I reciently purchased a sundown SAZ-2500d v.2 form SSA and am a little stumped on wiring. I will be running a RE Audio xxx 15'' dual 2 ohm at 1 ohm. The amp has two positive and two nagative inputs, can I use both? Want to get the best power out of this as possable.
  4. 2005 dodge ram 1500 I have this massive triple sub 10", shared lower vent, chambered box 16.5x20x49(with port).... port size is 2.25"x49"x12.5". I have 2 alpine swr-10d4(1000rms-3000peak), and one swr-1043d(600 rms-1800peak). all were previously ran in parallel @ 1 ohm (i think) going to a rockford fosgate t1000.1 power series. Suprisingly it hardely even got warm and pushes them hard. BTW!!= I just yesterday wired in my red top underneath my back seat and i have that wired to the bullz audio 2f cap=> everything wired to that...(i have a normal stock truck battery up front) My questions: 1.Is my port the right length?(can it sound better if made longer/shorter/complete chamber) 2. Is the box itself too big or is it ok? 3. Where can i find a wiring diagram or does somone know how to do 1ohm to all 3 speakers or just two? 4. [would having a diff rms sub on the same 1ohm wire do anything bad?] if so. 5. i have a 1600 boss amp that i've wired into my truck in my current setup of a center console box i made(but it seems to be having a hard time pushing it because it goes onto "protect" mode alot.) 6. should i get rid of my capacitor and stick with just the two batterys? And i have a 1600 boss 800.2 amp and two kicker cvr 12" 05cvr124(400rms-800peak) that im selling to a friend and i was looking for a badass ported box design thats loud going into the back of his old jeep...the available space is{length from back seat to rear door}x{width fromside to side of car}x{height} 25"x35"x15" (If i want to be able to slide it in from the back without him having to take off his top or putting it in from the front) if not then 25"x35"x MIN(15")MAX(30")... My questions:1. I also have some nice component speakers laying around... could i cut holes for them too?[would i need to chamber them completly off from the subs?] im open to any ideas i can make some crazy stuff. My current setup is a center console box with the two swr-10d4's (recently attempted to invert the one closest to front and doesnt sound right) going to that rockford fosgate t1000.1bd... and when i inverted i hooked one to the boss amp and another to the fosgate from the capacitor...but just didnt sound right... i have a problem when they are both right side up... the way the box is made all the air space is at the ground and the sub closest to front gets pushed out further and clips...i also beleive the box is just barely over the minimum for sealed air space. My questions: 1. take out the capacitor= just 2 batteries 2. i tried to invert it? and couldnt find a diagram to reverse polarity but idk if thats what i need to do or what. 3. port it maybe? but how?--- p.s. everything is perfectly sealed on both boxes.
  5. Ok so this is the first time I'm amping some mids/highs in my car using a 4 channel amplifier. I have 2 infinity reference 6x9s by an SSL F400. I bought one of those cheap amp hookup kits from walmart just to fill in the gap for wiring I didnt have. (8gauge power and rcas) I got really bad engine noise at first through the 6x9s. I troubleshoot and made a new ground for the headunit to the chastity of the car, also made a new ground for the amp to go to the same ground my battery in the trunk is grounded to. (strut ground) the engine noise was reduced but is still present. everything sounds good, but there is still some audible distortion. I have a pair of stinger bass blockers on these 6x9s supposed to block 0-300 hz @ 4 ohm, but I'm pretty sure 6x9s are 2 ohm. (it never said on the box but from what i Looked up they seem to be 2 ohm, and ohmage meter doesnt seem to want to cooperate) I have an hc1800 in the trunk strut ground with 0 gauge. up front theres an duralast platinum with big 3 upgrade, fuse block, engine ground, alt power, strut ground, all 1/0 and 0. Bass: powering an Fi Q with a mmats d300hc. door speakers are not amped therefor no alt wind is audible through them. does the RCAS used in the application make a difference? ex. using a 20$pair of stinger RCAS compared to these cheap walmart scosche stuff..I bought a new pair even though I've established that it wasnt the rcas to make the noise, isnt headunit, and isnt amp ground, but it still may be the config I have my grounds..leave to open conversation for troubleshoot. I also just figured out that the noise gets worse when I play through my auxillary cord. Well its not an auxillary its a cord adapter that uses ext in in replace of the cd changer I believe. Headunit is an older JVC KD-720. Starting to think that its the problem, but then again I'm thinking grabbing power from the back battery for the 4 channel instead of running power from the front battery is the problem? Just bought some 1/0 and going to ground the back battery to the front battery - . good idea or worthless?
  6. So Shizzzon got my attention with some cheap 4/0 gauge he got. I'm thinking of adding a couple of 4/0 grounds and a couple 4/0 runs from alt to my front batts. I have never worked with the stuff before. I will be upgrading my alt to a 400 amp eventually so I'm trying to plan ahead. Since the length of these runs will be shorter than 6-7 feet will there be any benefit vs 0 gauge? Is there a way to fuse 4/0 wire? Also what lugs do you use for your 4/0 wire the only ones I found have a minimum buy amount of 10?
  7. I am thinking of going with 2 sets of components for my front stage and doing away with the rears.(maybe) I have a Alpine PDX 4.150 that does 150 x 4 rms to each channel. Right now I have the fronts on the front channel rca and the rears on the rear channel RCA's. So I do not mess with imaging too bad do I just run RCA Y spitters just on the front channel from the head unit so I can use all 4 channels of this amp? I need something to keep up with two 18's and I think my current front stage would but since my rears will blocked by the huge box I might as well double up front and use all 600 of this amp