Aero Ports and Subwoofer mounting

[shizzzon 461]

If I were to use the Flanged ports that PartsExpress sells, since i have never used these type of ports before, is it necessary to brace the port inside the box to prevent vibration of the port? IF it is required(4KW+) what you guys recommend me do using 4" aero ports(ports be 4" from the floor).

Subwoofer mounting -

What do you think is the most secure method of holding down subs. I was thinking about purchasing this foam tape that partsexpress has to prevent air leakage around subs but wanted to do something different rather than just use drywall screws for a high wattage install.

I have been looking into t-nuts and hurricane nuts and from reviews i've been reading, hurricane nuts tend to be a lot better than t-nuts for MDF. Just put a dab of glue on the nut, hammer it in, then drive a bolt through.

As simple as it seems, since i have never used hurricane nuts, for 3\4" wood, how long of a bolt do i use with nuts like these?

Is there any other method for high strength securing or is this method pretty damn good?

[Woodlawn Cabinetry 0]

Anytime I use round ports or " flanged/aero ports " I always brace them in some manner so their not just hanging in dead space.

As for what to use to brace the port, I just use MDF with the the OD of the port cut and then attach the mdf an interior wall of the enclosure and epoxy the port to the brace.

As for securing subwoofers to the enclosure, I used various types of hardware and found that " hurricane nuts " work the best provided that the hole that is pre-drilled to secure them in place will not cause the MDF to " blow out " if to close to the mounting cutout of the subwoofer.

T-nuts are bad either and what I have discovered is rather than trying to get all the " barb's to bite into the mdf ( which causes " blowout " ) is let one barb land on the sub cutout allowing for the other barb's to get maximum bite into the mdf.

One word of advise with this type of hardware: Make d@mn sure that when you drill the holes to put the t-nut or hurricanes in that they are slightly greater in diameter and this will make for a better fit and alignment of the thread shaft so the bolts will not cross thread the t-nut and/or bolt.

As for " gluing " them in, use a woodworking product that will cause the MDF to " swell " around the t-nut/hurricane nut that will hold in place better than a epoxy or crazy glue type glue.

Phil

Woodlawn Cabinetry

If I were to use the Flanged ports that PartsExpress sells, since i have never used these type of ports before, is it necessary to brace the port inside the box to prevent vibration of the port? IF it is required(4KW+) what you guys recommend me do using 4" aero ports(ports be 4" from the floor).

Subwoofer mounting -

What do you think is the most secure method of holding down subs. I was thinking about purchasing this foam tape that partsexpress has to prevent air leakage around subs but wanted to do something different rather than just use drywall screws for a high wattage install.

I have been looking into t-nuts and hurricane nuts and from reviews i've been reading, hurricane nuts tend to be a lot better than t-nuts for MDF. Just put a dab of glue on the nut, hammer it in, then drive a bolt through.

As simple as it seems, since i have never used hurricane nuts, for 3\4" wood, how long of a bolt do i use with nuts like these?

Is there any other method for high strength securing or is this method pretty damn good?