RL-p18 power handling...

[01 S 10 0]

My RL-p18 is arriving tomorrow, the box i am going to build will be 5.3ish cf tuned to probably 29hz. This will be a dual-2 model running off a Sundown SAZ1500 @ 1 ohm.

Will 1500+ rms be o.k. for the RL-p in this size box? the box will have about 60 sq inches of port, will that be enough?

btw, i used the RE box calculator to mess around with some designs. I have heard that their tuning is a little off, does anyone know about how much so i can compensate for it?

sorry about all the questions, I just dont want to eff up the sub

Thanks,

Cody

Edited April 22, 2008 by 01 S 10

[shizzzon 461]

i havent gotten the time to test their calculator yet but because that calculator is ONLY for L shaped slot ports, standard port length calculators, including ones in software will actually be wrong unless they have a specific selection for L port calculation.

In a slot port, part of the physical length requirement is actually acoustical length because slot port shares a wall which makes the acoustical length longer and the physical length shorter.

This is why people may say their calculator may say use a port length shorter than expected.

Don't quote me 100% as that's what it's doing because i havent got time to compare it yet.

[01 S 10 0]

but pretty much since it is a slot port and RE is definetely calculating/designing a slot port, it should be pretty accurate right?

[shizzzon 461]

you would think so.... why would they still have it up there?

The only thing i have noticed is telling the program what size width your port is.

I think the port width is external which is 100% retarded if that's true.

It looks like it is from the picture...

Type in 0.75" as port width, it looks like the wood walls join completely, that's what i am talkin about.

[01 S 10 0]

well i built a standard slot ported box today, 5.5 cubes tuned to 29 hz... sounds reallyyy good. But is there a break in period on the woofer? it seemed like after about 15 minutes of listening it was slowly getting louder... is this correct?

Edited April 23, 2008 by 01 S 10

[dem beats 1,223]

break in of speakers is an amazingly heated argument with people on both sides of the fence.....

[JimJ 11]

Not really.

Break-in of speakers happens, it's a fact, it happens with normal use. The misconception occurs when people think that you're supposed to do something special with them to break them in...

[dem beats 1,223]

I was more in referance to anything past a few moments to beak them in.

I tend to agree with this article.

http://www.audioholics.com/education/louds...fact-or-fiction

[shizzzon 461]

don't have time to read all that link but you will only notice a difference if the driver was fresh when you got it then broken in at a later date.

If it comes broken in then you should never notice a difference.

All the things about how to break a sub in, all that is bullcrap.

There is no need to baby a sub forever before wangin on it...

If everything is set right, let it rip.

The longer you baby a sub during a "break-in period", the longer it takes to break it in.

[01 S 10 0]

i agree, this was BNIB, so i did notice a difference after 30 minutes, and now 2 days later im still noticing changes slightly. It is picking up lower frequencys better, it was a little stiff at first.