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How flexible does this wire have to be? I got some 0/1 in the garage but not very flexible. When i mean flexible, i mean does it have to be flexible enough to bend heavily when flexing around all the car parts.

If you can get it from point A to point B its flexible enough. how felxible it needs to be depends on your car and how you route the wire.

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im finally about to install my stereo system after i get it for xmas :) . so i was planning on doing the big 3, but i drive a BMW so the battery is in the trunk, do i still do the same stuff?

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well the last one, Alternator to battery, is going to be more of a pain because of the distance, but if you are running a lot more power and want to get the most out of it, a little more work and a few more dollars will pay off over time

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It shouldn't be that hard. It will be like running a power wire to an amp in the back, except using it for a battery. You will probably have to use 0 gauge, because they probably have 4 running to the back already.

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im lost :(

did you look at the pictures?

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I see no puictures, i only see "Attached image(s)" and a big X :poop:

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www.weldingsupply.com

for cheaper wire needs ;)

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:stupid:

never buy "speaker power wire" copper is copper which means wire is wire....as long as its 100% iz all good

weldingsupply.com :woot:

but you DO NOT have to fuse to the stock wireing fuse form Alt to Batt.

really, some people say double the alt's rated output, or w/e the wires maximum ampere capeablility is.

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ball park figure? what percentage of power /voltage gain would doing the big three give?

average 4 door car year 2000?

ball park?

any other advantages?

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less dimmage.

i'm running 2000 watts off of a stock alt and batt.

It dims when i'm at lights but while driving barely.

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I have just always added extra wire to the big 3 and never removed the factory. I also do 4 wires instead of 3:

battery neg to chasis, battery neg to engine, engine to chasis (all 3 of those 0/1) and I usually just add a 4awg power from the alt pos to battery pos. (unless really hi output then would use 0/1) never messed with any fuses or anything else on it.

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In hondas there is no batt - to engine

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To whoever asked why not just replace:

When you run wires in parallel (a.k.a. Bi-Wirring) it will take the resistance of both wires and half it. Therefore if wire 1 can carry 100 amps and wire 2 can carry 300, you now have 400A capacity. It never HURTS to run too much wire, only not enough will hurt you. As to grounding to the chassis...There was an EXTENSIVE study done a while ago on some forum, it concluded that while some better and some a bit worse, most cars chassis when you ground to it can support between the average 4ga braided ("car audio") power and 2ga briaded wire. If you plan on running 2ga or above for power wire, I would suggest running a ground to the chassis and another directly to the battery. This would be your best bet and would support future upgrades more easily (ex. if you want to put an extra battery in your trunk with an extra amp)...

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How long does it usually take welding supply to ship? I ordered knukonceptz stuff the same day as welding supply(last thursday), but knukonceptz got it to me by saturday. Welding supply didn't even give me a tracking number

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I didnt do it.....

didnt wanna spend the $30 on a fuse/holder

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did it and my lights still dim like a mofo

might need a second battery, or larger main battery, if not then stronger alternator

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did it and my lights still dim like a mofo

might need a second battery, or larger main battery, if not then stronger alternator

I agree. Depending on the model car, it could also be the vehicle's computer telling the alternator that it doesn't have to work so hard so it kind of backs back a little but that's only with certain vehicle.

Just my opinion.

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i was thinking of a second battery but have no where to put one but maybe under one of my front seats? i was also thinking of a kinetik hc 600 or 800 because they arent very big and easier for me to hide, but im not sure

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