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mrray13

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Way to go Adrian, now time to come to the states. :)

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I'd use a tweeter with that setup.

im not familiar with many tweeters, but he prefers soft dome.

so we're looking at like 200 shipped for the mids alone, still worth it versus a cheaper midbass and fullrange combo?

im a little concerned with the $1k budget.

hu 200

amps 100

deadening 100? have to email sds yet

(this is where im surprised at costs)

wiring/all install shit - total- 250

  • hu harness + dash kit 20
  • ipod 15
  • power/gnd wire 55
  • rca + speaker wire 25
  • mdf + wood glue 40
  • fg + bondo cheap shit 30
  • voltage meter 25
  • distro block + inline fuse 15
  • carpeting + spray paint 25

350 left for subs and speakers

could i get another 100 - 150 bucks out of him, sure but where should i invest it?

he really likes the icon, out what i've showed him. knowing my brother he would spend more to get the sub that looks nicer.

The problem you have is the pods are built, but not for anything optimal. The mid/tweet could share an active channel and just passively cross the two separate, but everything is a compromise. If the pods weren't built I'd go about it differently.

oh geez i think i forgot to mention something haha, those pics where from someone else's build. the reason i was using them was as a reference since its the same car, and because you've (m5) heard the car.here is a link to the build log, its from 2007 so its been a while, sorry for the confusion.

I bought the drivers for Scott's car, lol, but he had tweeters. Full rangers without I really would prefer up above the dash.

agreed, the fountek should be great in the A-pillar. and they have a relatively low mounting depth compared to some other drivers, which should allow me to keep the pods smaller and less obtrusive.

still on the fence with kicks vs doors for midbass..

there isn't carpet behind the stock plastic kick panel so the midbass would be vented out (no idea where to, firewall perhaps?). i could seal up the kicks as well i guess. also, i wont have to deaden the doors as much.

i remember reading about how it is better to get the midbass as wide as possible for the best staging. is this true?

doors are limited by a 3.25" mounting depth.

If you are running a full ranger, I wouldn't worry so much about the midbass for staging reasons. Crossing under 3-400Hz won't affect it much. I would instead consider where you can get them more volume behind the drivers, if the kicks are truly vented outside and you can seal it off that would be my pick.

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I love that everything from Amazon seems to come from Coffeyville. Fast shipping = happy Penguin.

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I love that everything from Amazon seems to come from Coffeyville. Fast shipping = happy Penguin.

I have amazon prime, it doesn't matter to me where it comes out of. :)

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I love that everything from Amazon seems to come from Coffeyville. Fast shipping = happy Penguin.

I have amazon prime, it doesn't matter to me where it comes out of. :)

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Considering you can buy the cheapest version of that radiator for 145$ off of rockauto, the labor and parts cost for fixing the old one will probably exceed that, and you still have to do all the work I'd just go ahead and put a brand new one in.

If it's that cheap, it's a no-brainer. Radiators are one thing I don't want to buy used or go about fixing.

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UPS, hurry up with my cylinder kit, I want to use the moped again :D

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Of course, conference call I "Get" to lead starts in 10 minutes and I am crashing hard

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Of course, conference call I "Get" to lead starts in 10 minutes and I am crashing hard

Pound espressos. :)

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USPS, hurry up with my amp and mids, I want to get loud :D

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Of course, conference call I "Get" to lead starts in 10 minutes and I am crashing hard

Pound espressos. :)

LIKE A BOSS

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I'd use a tweeter with that setup.

im not familiar with many tweeters, but he prefers soft dome.

so we're looking at like 200 shipped for the mids alone, still worth it versus a cheaper midbass and fullrange combo?

im a little concerned with the $1k budget.

hu 200

amps 100

deadening 100? have to email sds yet

(this is where im surprised at costs)

wiring/all install shit - total- 250

  • hu harness + dash kit 20
  • ipod 15
  • power/gnd wire 55
  • rca + speaker wire 25
  • mdf + wood glue 40
  • fg + bondo cheap shit 30
  • voltage meter 25
  • distro block + inline fuse 15
  • carpeting + spray paint 25

350 left for subs and speakers

could i get another 100 - 150 bucks out of him, sure but where should i invest it?

he really likes the icon, out what i've showed him. knowing my brother he would spend more to get the sub that looks nicer.

The problem you have is the pods are built, but not for anything optimal. The mid/tweet could share an active channel and just passively cross the two separate, but everything is a compromise. If the pods weren't built I'd go about it differently.

oh geez i think i forgot to mention something haha, those pics where from someone else's build. the reason i was using them was as a reference since its the same car, and because you've (m5) heard the car.here is a link to the build log, its from 2007 so its been a while, sorry for the confusion.

I bought the drivers for Scott's car, lol, but he had tweeters. Full rangers without I really would prefer up above the dash.

agreed, the fountek should be great in the A-pillar. and they have a relatively low mounting depth compared to some other drivers, which should allow me to keep the pods smaller and less obtrusive.

still on the fence with kicks vs doors for midbass..

there isn't carpet behind the stock plastic kick panel so the midbass would be vented out (no idea where to, firewall perhaps?). i could seal up the kicks as well i guess. also, i wont have to deaden the doors as much.

i remember reading about how it is better to get the midbass as wide as possible for the best staging. is this true?

doors are limited by a 3.25" mounting depth.

If you are running a full ranger, I wouldn't worry so much about the midbass for staging reasons. Crossing under 3-400Hz won't affect it much. I would instead consider where you can get them more volume behind the drivers, if the kicks are truly vented outside and you can seal it off that would be my pick.

I'll take a better look at it soon. Thanks for the help!

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:drink40:

Job complete!

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Caffeine is not a stimulant to me. Usually puts me to sleep, I love an espresso before bed

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damn near got in another wreck...fucker blew through a red light; song playing on the radio at the time just happened to be the same song playing when I crashed my truck. Spooky :peepwall:

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u heard the song??

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on anutha note

new radiator in..

new idle control valve in.

found a hole in the vacuum line on the back of the throttle body..

truck is purrin like a kitten, but wt out the leak it idles low, so volts are like 13 at the stop light, bout to put this diode back in

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of course I was listening to the song...until the moment the battery exploded and the alternator was crushed that is

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Just picked up a motorcycle! 1982 Kawasaki kz 750 csr

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as long as the song wasnt jeepers creepers lol

1982? carb ugh snds like a headache

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Just picked up a motorcycle! 1982 Kawasaki kz 750 csr

That would make a neat home built chopper project :roflmao:

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