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Tirefryr

The Stereo Integrity Cobra.

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Well, I figured I'd start a thread laying everything out from start to finish. Here goes. Some things are missing like power wire routing and alarm install, but there's no way in hell I'm taking my fender off again just to take some pics. Here goes.

Let's start with the Omnifi. I think many have seen it, but here goes.

I started with this.

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And finished with this.

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Perfect routing of the cable. This necessitated desoldering the wires inside the circuit board, but it was only 5 simple wires and they were spaced far enough apart for my iron to get them.

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Some finished pics.

Now you see it.

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Now you don't.

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Passenger side for comparison.

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More.

10003471mx.jpg

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Here you can see the RCAs nicely routed away from any power wire.

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Can you see them?

Beginnings of the sub enclosure/amprack.

All the Spectrum is dried.

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Everything taped up and the frame is halfway done.

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My slick custom mount for the fuse holder.

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Turned out very well and allows for access to the battery hold down mounting bolt incase of an emergency.

Fuse holder installed.

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nice stuff, how many volts will that red top send to the amp with the car on? what about a yellow top?

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Ewwww...i hate that red top.

Same junk one i have

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nice stuff, how many volts will that red top send to the amp with the car on? what about a yellow top?

It won't send any with the vehicle running.

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nice stuff, how many volts will that red top send to the amp with the car on? what about a yellow top?

It won't send any with the vehicle running.

lies

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nice stuff, how many volts will that red top send to the amp with the car on? what about a yellow top?

It won't send any with the vehicle running.

lies

I don't lie, I'm intelligent.

The battery is nothing but another load on the alt once the vehicle is running. If your electrical system is drawing juice from the battery while running, your alt is failing.

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^^lol

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keep us in the loop during the updates

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very cool lookin Ryan but plywood?

For the fiberglass work, plywood is a much better base. MDF when subjected to a lot of movement will become brittle and break. THe plywood will readily accept any vibration or movement without this worry. It also accepts and grips T-nuts better than MDF which is critical in this install in which I will have MANY hidden fasteners.

I have a very tight chassis setup and every little bump, dip, crown, whatever, is absorbed and translated back through the car. This is not a cruiser and you feel EVERYTHING when you drive it. I'm not taking any chances with anything breaking here.

Whats goin on with the back seats?

Back seats are not needed in this car, so they go bye bye. I had a rear seat delete in there previously that I used to run and this is similar. Actually my in my 95 I had almost this exact same setup albeit with a BA 12.5LF.

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Cobra's don't ever need rear seats FOO...

Rear Psgrs = more weight = worse performance

:duh: :D

LoL

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then again.... he is adding wires, amps, and at least one woofer :(

;)

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And the amps are monsters. Anyways, Ford never should have put a rear seat in the SN95s anyways. There's not really a lot of room back there for anything other than kids. Hell, you're cramped in the front if you're pushing 6'.

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Try an integra ;)

if your over 6' you wont fit ( back seat)

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Try an integra ;)

if your over 6' you wont fit ( back seat)

And at ~ 5'7 and up you don't want to be back there for more than a few minutes at a time.

I've gotta say ... the dash et al in Ryan's car is freakin' spotless.

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looks good so far :D

i have the same ANL fuse holder you do :)

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