Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Jared Harper

Strange electrical issue?

Recommended Posts

Ok. Ever since I can remember I have had a small problem with dimming headlights. However, I never really noticed because I don't blast my system full tilt very often and hardly ever at night. For some reason my lights seem to be dimming a lot lately. I currently have a 200amp alternator with 3 deka intimadator batteries. This powers my saz3000d at 1ohm. I thought that I might have a loose connection or my alternator was failing. I started testing voltage and this is where I'm confused. With the bass at nearly full tilt with the lights dimming bad my voltage stays at a steady 13.98 volts. With nothing on it's charges at 14.2. So, my question is how or why is my lights dimming so bad with little to no voltage drop? Thanks for yalls help.

Ps. I tested with different dmm to make sure one wasn't messed up and I tested at every battery, the amp and fuse box.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

disconnect the starting battery from the rest of the batts and take it auto zone and put it on their battery tester.

Do not have them come out and test it, physically take the battery out and give it to them. They have a machine in the building that tests batts.

The CA rating at 68F is what they will need to test your starting battery. If it fails... you need a new starting battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

do not assume anything else before doing that first what i said above.

It could also be that ur rear batteries are not full charged or you have a dead cell, etc..

In any case, if it was one of these reasons, the alternator is running wide open and outputting so much current to the stereo system that it can't supply power to the headlights.

I do not really think this is the reason though because if it were true, your voltage reading would actually be in the low 13s...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

batts are for when there is no power from the alt !!! a alt is just for charging the batts they could be at full charge and still pulling from the alt all the batteries this is the reason i suggest a battery isolators just remember do not let them discharge at a competitions test and tune part of the even before fore the event some time they trip people up that have batt isolators and you discharge the batt to much unless this is a dd with a small system then just run it strait off the alt and do not forget to fully charge batts before comps a cap will not even help because your drawling more "amps" then your system will allow. put it this way your putting the strain on the alt not having a isolator this is what i think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i think u mean solenoid as an isolator will drop a volt by the time it reaches the rear batts.

Also, alternator is NOT for charging batts but rather to keep them charged!

Try to use an alternator to charge a dead battery or a bank of batts that have been discharged pretty good... the alt will likely overheat from running wide open.

A solenoid will prevent equalization of batteries when car is off. This prevents premature failure.

Now, if all the batts in your ride are same make and series line, then solenoids are optional but since they are so cheap, i always use them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i think u mean solenoid as an isolator will drop a volt by the time it reaches the rear batts.

Also, alternator is NOT for charging batts but rather to keep them charged!

Try to use an alternator to charge a dead battery or a bank of batts that have been discharged pretty good... the alt will likely overheat from running wide open.

A solenoid will prevent equalization of batteries when car is off. This prevents premature failure.

Now, if all the batts in your ride are same make and series line, then solenoids are optional but since they are so cheap, i always use them.

you got it ,it's drawling from the alt when it should not be a solenoid is the same as a isolator but the isolator will trickle charge the bats or keep them charged. the only way you can drawl from those batts is if the system is separated and not connect to each other sine it's still connect it's drawl off the alt too. this is were you isolate the system from each other

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

btw if you add a isolator do not over drawl from the storage batts to make them sizzle or exploded in other word stereo off x amount and on x amount to charge the batts properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the info and help guys. While I was writing the first post I had the batteries on the charge and now the electrical seems to be doing a lot better. I will still do what yall suggested. I guess the last couple shows I've been to drained them down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×