Jump to content
sotelomichael

Sound Splinter Dual Rl-i8 setup with pics! :D (Advice please!)

Recommended Posts

Hey there guys! Last you guys heard from me I was trying to get some help with my burnt voice coil rli-8. Since then I bought 2 of these rl-i8s from Patented17 in the classifieds section. I spoke to Mike (owner of SS) and and I've commissioned SPY (all credit with the box goes to him!) to custom build an enclosure for my subs. He did his best to get the specs in the confined area that is my vehicles trunk, to match the optimal specs for the rli-8 according to the website :D

The box itself is .3cuft tuned to 33 hz and I know will play down low very well. Here is where you guys come in. I have a clarion DZX785USB (link) that has preout voltage of 6v, and I have a pair of Clarion DPX2251 (link) amplifiers that will be powering up my entire system.

The speakers for my build are (2) sound splinter rli-8s dvc 4 ohm wired to a 4 ohm load @ 600 watts on one of the amps, and my front stage is a pair of morel integra ovation 6. Now I need help in properly setting the gains to match what I expect from my setup :D

First off, the front stage, the morel components (link) can handle 120RMS, and the clarion amp puts out a lot more than that (180 RMS @ 4ohm iirc) so I need to set my gains to allow a max of 120 watts RMS to each front stage speaker. I will need to purchase a voltage meter I believe (dmm is it caled?) to accurately tune the gain (voltage) correct? Furthermore, my head unit is active capable, so what is a good setting to have these speakers at? (sorry, I figured if you're taking the time to read might as well ask everything I need :) )

QUESTION : What high pass / slope, low pass / slope should I use for the front stage?

Second, the subs will be wired to 4 ohm @ 600 watts, what is a good lpf and hpf for these subs?

As a reward for listening/reading, here are the pics of my enclosure! Enjoy!

Here are some pics for you sound splinter fans to imagine what these babies will do! :D

DSCN1012.jpg

DSCN1021.jpg

DSCN1022.jpg

DSCN1026.jpg

DSCN1027.jpg

DSCN1028.jpg

DSCN1029.jpg

DSCN1030.jpg

DSCN1031.jpg

DSCN1032.jpg

DSCN1033.jpg

DSCN1034.jpg

DSCN1035.jpg

DSCN1036.jpg

DSCN1037.jpg

DSCN1039.jpg

DSCN1041.jpg

DSCN1042.jpg

DSCN1043.jpg

DSCN1044.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, the port takes up more room than the airspace for the subs, ha.

IMO, setting a gain for interior speakers with a dmm is fairly worthless. Just use your ears. Depending on your install of the mids and where they're crossed over, chances are those bottoming out will be the limiting factor, not thermal power handling of the mid and tweet. Plus both the tweeter and mid could start breaking up with less than 120 watts, and you'll just need your ears for that.

To run active you need 4 channels of amplification for the component set, not just two. So you'd have to get a different amplifier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The box design and box look great!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, the port takes up more room than the airspace for the subs, ha.

IMO, setting a gain for interior speakers with a dmm is fairly worthless. Just use your ears. Depending on your install of the mids and where they're crossed over, chances are those bottoming out will be the limiting factor, not thermal power handling of the mid and tweet. Plus both the tweeter and mid could start breaking up with less than 120 watts, and you'll just need your ears for that.

To run active you need 4 channels of amplification for the component set, not just two. So you'd have to get a different amplifier.

Thanks for the reply! I read the setting gains thread here on SSA and it says you should not run the deck over 3/4 of its max volume, is this generally true?

Oh, and the morel integra ovation 6, sadly, don't have the tweeter and mid using different power sources, power for both come from the same terminal/signal. But what I'm getting at, is since they are similar to coaxials, should I run them off of 2 way active, or just "normal"?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats some very nice work on the box build.

Yes it is! I will be getting it shipped tomorrow after its carpeted! :D

That box looks freaking sweet man.

Hey man, yeah it does look like its gonna be a rather beefy setup :D can't wait! Thanks for the hookup on the RLIs :D

The box design and box look great!

Thanks man, all the credit goes to SPY over at ****

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, the port takes up more room than the airspace for the subs, ha.

IMO, setting a gain for interior speakers with a dmm is fairly worthless. Just use your ears. Depending on your install of the mids and where they're crossed over, chances are those bottoming out will be the limiting factor, not thermal power handling of the mid and tweet. Plus both the tweeter and mid could start breaking up with less than 120 watts, and you'll just need your ears for that.

To run active you need 4 channels of amplification for the component set, not just two. So you'd have to get a different amplifier.

Thanks for the reply! I read the setting gains thread here on SSA and it says you should not run the deck over 3/4 of its max volume, is this generally true?

Oh, and the morel integra ovation 6, sadly, don't have the tweeter and mid using different power sources, power for both come from the same terminal/signal. But what I'm getting at, is since they are similar to coaxials, should I run them off of 2 way active, or just "normal"?

Yes, generally 3/4 of head unit volume is a good rule to follow. Most head units will begin to clip somewhere above that level.

I'm not sure what you mean by active or "normal." Active means a single channel of amplification to each individual speaker to control the crossover going to each speaker. That set of speakers comes with a passive crossover. If you use that crossover, it's passive no matter how you wire it. If you go active you would not use that crossover, and instead use the crossovers on the head unit, amp, or external powered crossover.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, the port takes up more room than the airspace for the subs, ha.

IMO, setting a gain for interior speakers with a dmm is fairly worthless. Just use your ears. Depending on your install of the mids and where they're crossed over, chances are those bottoming out will be the limiting factor, not thermal power handling of the mid and tweet. Plus both the tweeter and mid could start breaking up with less than 120 watts, and you'll just need your ears for that.

To run active you need 4 channels of amplification for the component set, not just two. So you'd have to get a different amplifier.

Thanks for the reply! I read the setting gains thread here on SSA and it says you should not run the deck over 3/4 of its max volume, is this generally true?

Oh, and the morel integra ovation 6, sadly, don't have the tweeter and mid using different power sources, power for both come from the same terminal/signal. But what I'm getting at, is since they are similar to coaxials, should I run them off of 2 way active, or just "normal"?

Yes, generally 3/4 of head unit volume is a good rule to follow. Most head units will begin to clip somewhere above that level.

I'm not sure what you mean by active or "normal." Active means a single channel of amplification to each individual speaker to control the crossover going to each speaker. That set of speakers comes with a passive crossover. If you use that crossover, it's passive no matter how you wire it. If you go active you would not use that crossover, and instead use the crossovers on the head unit, amp, or external powered crossover.

Thanks! I didn't know that clipping was caused by the head unit at over 3/4th of the volume! I'll make sure to not go over that. Also, my morel speakers DO NOT come with a cross over... only the ovation xo come with cross overs, mine are the integra ovation 6... any suggestions as to what I should use on the gain? half, 1/4, etc?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's no way to tell you. It depends entirely on the input voltage of the head unit as well as what your speakers can handle.

I forgot to ask before, what's the hole on top of the box for?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's no way to tell you. It depends entirely on the input voltage of the head unit as well as what your speakers can handle.

I forgot to ask before, what's the hole on top of the box for?

I'm sure you mean the small hole on top of the box, not the entire box being open up top right? well to answer both, the whole top of the box was before SPY put the top on just to show the intricate design :D and the small hole that looks like a spot for a 4" speaker, is actually for a flush-mount terminal box. Since as you can tell by the pictures, we did not want to drill holes through the walls of the box (but I will drill just the wall between both subs real small and seal it up with some silicone on both sides to wire the subs to 4 ohm).

Back to the clarion itself, I know they are rated at true 6 volt preamp, but how do I know for certain other than members from other forums commenting on it? Remember, it's the clarion dzx785usb from clarion. I don't want to over power the components, so some suggestions would be best, I have about 180 x 2 to work with on the amp, and about 120 x 2 max rms on the speakers, I don't wanna burn them! real expensive speakers lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is quite a box. Would love to hear it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is quite a box. Would love to hear it.

I can't wait either lol. But I'll get some vids up for you guys! ......................... And here are some more pics of the finished product!

DSCN1069.jpg

DSCN1070.jpg

DSCN1071.jpg

DSCN1072.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That box is spectacular. Lucky duck :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that box is rediculous, im quite impressed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

awesome design on the box. wished I could cut like that lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

updates?

sweet box, btw.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have 2 TC-1000 8's (same thing as the RL-i 8's) I would love to replicate this box build for mine. Could you by any chance tell me the dimensions or did SPY charge you a fee?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

holy crap that box is awesome! great craftsmanship!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SPY always makes beautiful looking boxes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is quite a box. Would love to hear it.

I can't wait either lol. But I'll get some vids up for you guys! ......................... And here are some more pics of the finished product!

DSCN1069.jpg

DSCN1070.jpg

DSCN1071.jpg

DSCN1072.jpg

very nice box . hope to build one like that for my RLP 12.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wanna hear, curious how it sounds to a normal ported box :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 18 Guests (See full list)

    There are no registered users currently online

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

×