adding a relay control for trunk release?

[Sniper 0]

so i've got a 1993 Saturn SC1 that has a busted lock system for the trunk. The trunk itself can open in the front via a lever.

BUT, if I am going to put the system I want in this car, I want to make it so the car has to be in accessory mode before the trunk can open (or key in ignition, what ever will start 12V activity via remote)

I was thinking attaching a small 12v pull motor to the line that runs to the front, then just setting it up so it can be toggled while the radio is running... I dont even know if this is possible ;o

Basically, I want my stuff to be harder to steal. 'cause the trunk alone has been worked on (by me personally!) so the hatch mechanism are MUCH lower than stock and the actual lock cylinder has been detached from the mechanism that turns the J hook into place (aka, the metal rod thing is broke and its too much of a pain in the ass to line back up)

with the hatch mech lowered how it is, one cannot insert a screw driver on the seal line via center and bash the mech with a hammer, its set so the only way it can be opened is from the inside.

which is why im curious about setting up a system where the trunk can only be opened with the car running...

(yes, I do realize they could pull my fold-down seats out, but that box is going to fill that whole crevice, the actual amps are going to be at the front of the trunk in front of the lock mechanisms

and the 15s will be placed in a way that 4 will fit in that trunk, so we're talking VERY little room. (very creative box, i'll get a CAD pic on here tommarow of what im thinking, that is if I can find a 3VIEW of this car on the internet.

BTW : want to make a few bucks? Find me the very image I need to draw this car in cad, and I will get you 5$!

This image needs to be : FRONT, SIDE, TOP, and BACK

5 bucks to the first person who finds the perfect image (also, these need to be properly scaled pictures. I'll explain that tommarow as well when I get the CAD drawing up)

[jcarter1885 994]

so i've got a 1993 Saturn SC1 that has a busted lock system for the trunk. The trunk itself can open in the front via a lever.

BUT, if I am going to put the system I want in this car, I want to make it so the car has to be in accessory mode before the trunk can open (or key in ignition, what ever will start 12V activity via remote)

I was thinking attaching a small 12v pull motor to the line that runs to the front, then just setting it up so it can be toggled while the radio is running... I dont even know if this is possible ;o

Basically, I want my stuff to be harder to steal. 'cause the trunk alone has been worked on (by me personally!) so the hatch mechanism are MUCH lower than stock and the actual lock cylinder has been detached from the mechanism that turns the J hook into place (aka, the metal rod thing is broke and its too much of a pain in the ass to line back up)

with the hatch mech lowered how it is, one cannot insert a screw driver on the seal line via center and bash the mech with a hammer, its set so the only way it can be opened is from the inside.

which is why im curious about setting up a system where the trunk can only be opened with the car running...

(yes, I do realize they could pull my fold-down seats out, but that box is going to fill that whole crevice, the actual amps are going to be at the front of the trunk in front of the lock mechanisms

and the 15s will be placed in a way that 4 will fit in that trunk, so we're talking VERY little room. (very creative box, i'll get a CAD pic on here tommarow of what im thinking, that is if I can find a 3VIEW of this car on the internet.

BTW : want to make a few bucks? Find me the very image I need to draw this car in cad, and I will get you 5$!

This image needs to be : FRONT, SIDE, TOP, and BACK

5 bucks to the first person who finds the perfect image (also, these need to be properly scaled pictures. I'll explain that tommarow as well when I get the CAD drawing up)

Not doubting you but I damn sure would love to see you fit 4-15"s with the appropriate box size in the trunk of a Saturn without choking your subs in a too small box because I could barely put 3-12"s in my car and had to sacrifice port area.

[ABXX49 20]

The lever in the front, is it mechanical or an electric pulse?

[bigrank916 72]

so i've got a 1993 Saturn SC1 that has a busted lock system for the trunk. The trunk itself can open in the front via a lever.

BUT, if I am going to put the system I want in this car, I want to make it so the car has to be in accessory mode before the trunk can open (or key in ignition, what ever will start 12V activity via remote)

I was thinking attaching a small 12v pull motor to the line that runs to the front, then just setting it up so it can be toggled while the radio is running... I dont even know if this is possible ;o

Basically, I want my stuff to be harder to steal. 'cause the trunk alone has been worked on (by me personally!) so the hatch mechanism are MUCH lower than stock and the actual lock cylinder has been detached from the mechanism that turns the J hook into place (aka, the metal rod thing is broke and its too much of a pain in the ass to line back up)

with the hatch mech lowered how it is, one cannot insert a screw driver on the seal line via center and bash the mech with a hammer, its set so the only way it can be opened is from the inside.

which is why im curious about setting up a system where the trunk can only be opened with the car running...

(yes, I do realize they could pull my fold-down seats out, but that box is going to fill that whole crevice, the actual amps are going to be at the front of the trunk in front of the lock mechanisms

and the 15s will be placed in a way that 4 will fit in that trunk, so we're talking VERY little room. (very creative box, i'll get a CAD pic on here tommarow of what im thinking, that is if I can find a 3VIEW of this car on the internet.

BTW : want to make a few bucks? Find me the very image I need to draw this car in cad, and I will get you 5$!

This image needs to be : FRONT, SIDE, TOP, and BACK

5 bucks to the first person who finds the perfect image (also, these need to be properly scaled pictures. I'll explain that tommarow as well when I get the CAD drawing up)

Not doubting you but I damn sure would love to see you fit 4-15"s with the appropriate box size in the trunk of a Saturn without choking your subs in a too small box because I could barely put 3-12"s in my car and had to sacrifice port area.

Cant help you with the latch prob but I would love to see 4 15's in the trunk of a Saturn. Even sealed would be about 8 cuft but with 4 15's Im guessing you want all the output you can get.

[Sniper 0]

on the topic of the saturn and the 15s, since anyone who's familiar with the SC1 probably already knows that the backseat is way too damn small, I think you probably know where im going with this

(no, not a wall, maybe window-line wall ;3)

Edited October 3, 2009 by Alex Walls

[addiction2bass 0]

well if you want your system to be protected from opening the rear, then relocate that simple pull handle somewhere else... i would recomend under the back seat somewhere preferably some what hidden.

and be sure to not just relocate the old one but run to your local junk yard and buy another pull lever so you can put this FALSE pull handle in the stock location, this way they will think O CRAP this guys pull handle is busted now ill have to pop the trunk lock if i want in th eback. and thats going to take even longer for me to steal...

and put a remote poper on the trunk itself just like for shaving a door handle. they work great for trucks as well!!

wiring them up is very easy. just 12v relay and power and ground to the solenoid on the trunk lid.

then its just tap into a ignition source to activate the relay when you push a botton or use a alarms trunk poper wire if you got a alarm which you should since its the first step to saving your system!

main thing i recomend is using a good quality solenoid! and dont go for the weakest one, they may work at first but in time they could grow weak and just not have enough pull to get the job done.

and if you live in a bad area or just park your car in a bad area at work or what not... then simple way that is proved to work but alittle ghetto.... a chain and strong pad lock, simply attach one end of the chain to the floor of the trunk and connect another piece of chain to the trunk lid itself around the latch area good and strong, then when in doubt simply put the lock on both chains making them just long enough to lift the trunk lid about 4-6inches so you have enough room to get your hands in and unlock the padlock to open your own trunk. then just use some duct tape or electrical tape all over the chain links to keep them from rattling when bumping. ghetto but dam well effective! not to many stereo theives carry bolt cutters with them!

[ppiflat10s 3]

I like that idea of the padlock inside the trunk. wish I would have done that a long time ago when I went on vacation...

if you disable the factory lever, and install a solenoid to pop the trunk, make sure you got a backup situation to get into the trunk, because if the solenoid somehow fails or something breaks... oh crap!