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shizzzon

Hell-Razor's Build Log

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Great box design Shizzzon !:drink40:

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only problem is this box is only 2 inches shorter than the last one. this will barley fit in my trunk with the amps and battery

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your trunk is 41" deep. this box is 23.75" deep.

I can't go any smaller anymore because in order to build this properly, you must retain a large port area for port plugging... that's your downfall for trying to save space.

You ALWAYS have the option of building it in the car. Lots of people have to do that.

If u need help on doing that, i'll be glad to help.

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It took about ten minutes to take it out and five to put it back cause i was doing a few things at once... wasnt too bad. My mom was just shaking her head.

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then only pull it out when u go to a show.. don't let your mom see you doin that.. keep your wood to yourself, it's your plug, :)

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Ran into a few issues here. For one I was talking with my mechanic. He told me that he is going to have to modify the alternator because it wont connect like it would normally. He thinks the needs to run the zero gauge wire from the alternator to the second battery instead of how its connected now because its too much power for any one battery to handle. Is this true? He kept on telling me that " I think this alt is made for a two battery setup. So it may be too much power to just give a single battery and expect the computer in the car to be alright". The modifcation will be to the output section so its charging both batteries at the same time. Will he have to do this? Also he is afraid of tossing in the alternator right away because its over 2.5x more amps than my old stock alt without having some kind of draw on it (ie amps).

It also looks like he is going to have to run the wire outside the car along the frame. This worries me a LOT. A little water gets inside that cord and zap, there goes all the electronics. I was told to get the cheaper knu kable because I didn't need anything more expensive...

All I have to say after I talked with a few install guys around my area and it looks like its a good long day project for most of them. For me this means probably a week + if I were to tear out everything. The cheapest and certified people I could find were around 400$ and they said they could get it done in a day if I got it there around 8am and I could pick it up around 9pm. My two friends that were supposed to help me out with this totally ditched on me. So I ask that if anybody's around the Wisconsin area and wouldn't mind helping out a nublet like myself, you should send me a pm. Ill supply all the beer you can drink and pay for gas money and some gratitude for helping me out. The only thing I dont have right now that I need is some way of tieing the battery down, the woofer (on back order) and one more pair of "keys" to take out my cd player.

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The extra amperage wont hurt a single battery, not sure how your car is but most I've worked on the alt only puts out power when it's needed. Don't let him work on the alt, just hook up to one battery and link the batteries together. The only thing that could hurt your vehicle is if the alternator put out too high a voltage (like if it was meant for a 16v system). Other than that man just install it like normal. If you're worried about it just run a run of wire from the output bolt on the alt to each battery- no modification required.

I would run the wire inside the car instead of under, you should be able to fit at least 2-3 runs of wire without it being very difficult or noticeable under the carpet. Looks like you've got some nice gear there.

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The extra amperage wont hurt a single battery, not sure how your car is but most I've worked on the alt only puts out power when it's needed. Don't let him work on the alt, just hook up to one battery and link the batteries together. The only thing that could hurt your vehicle is if the alternator put out too high a voltage (like if it was meant for a 16v system). Other than that man just install it like normal. If you're worried about it just run a run of wire from the output bolt on the alt to each battery- no modification required.

I would run the wire inside the car instead of under, you should be able to fit at least 2-3 runs of wire without it being very difficult or noticeable under the carpet. Looks like you've got some nice gear there.

Yeah I like this gear. I hope it will be as good as I am expecting....

Well I am asking some advice here. I know absolutly nothing about cars sooo how do I tell somebody that works professionally on cars that he is mistaken about the alternator? Also I told him you should be able to run the cabling inside the car and he says its way too big.

Anybody else have some advice on how I can take out the floor panel by the door to see if 2x zero gauge wires will fit? Id love to see somebody post some pictures of their wiring coming out of their dash even if theyre hidden. I am just looking for some help here cause this is what I was told. Also the mechanic is a good friend of my parents. He does work for super super cheap. I think my dad got new breaks and a muffler installed for 50$ and a case of beer. I know he konws what he is doing but not 100% sure on it and I think thats the problem. And he is also worried about frying everything. I will email the owner of excessive amperage just to double check (not like I dont believe you guys, but more people saying installing the alt to a stock bat and then doing + to + and - to - will be alright will hel[p me out).

Well I think thats enough for now... Oh -- what could cause noise? I want to run the wake up wire with the power then RCA's elsewhere, correct? (If I remember correctly its the wake up cable and the RCA's that cause engine noise)

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just dropped in and only read last post.... why are you choosing not to run under the car...... ? just curious.....

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Pretty sure the whole running rca's on the other side is myth as long as they are shielded, could be wrong so I'm sure someone else will chime in.

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just dropped in and only read last post.... why are you choosing not to run under the car...... ? just curious.....

I got cheaper 0 gauge wire so I would think its not meant to be outside in the cold. It gets to -40 here in the winter and one drop of water in that line = bye bye electronics

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Wow, you really get some bad advice from people. Amazing what happens when you don't take the time to ask the right questions.

Cold, water, and your wire will NOT = bye bye electronics. Only an electrical short will do something and that will just blow your fuse...unless you have some idiot help you with your fuse in which case you will just burn your car down instead.

RCA's can be run right on top of your power wire and your ground for that matter. In fact good luck running it not right on your ground. :P

Considering the equipment list you have, $400 is pretty cheap. Considering the questions and advice you get, I'd say you should spend it. Either that or allocate more than a week and do a lot more research first. (starts with searching)

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RCA's can be run right on top of your power wire and your ground for that matter. In fact good luck running it not right on your ground. :P
Alright. Somebody just posted earlier on that power wire or the wake up wire running next to rca cables may cause the "buzzing" noise whenever you turn the car on or push on the gas peddle. Somebody else also said that this is a rumor. I had this buzzing in my other car as well whenever pushed on the gas... So I figure it was run too close together but it looks like it may be another problem.

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RCA's can be run right on top of your power wire and your ground for that matter. In fact good luck running it not right on your ground. :P
Alright. Somebody just posted earlier on that power wire or the wake up wire running next to rca cables may cause the "buzzing" noise whenever you turn the car on or push on the gas peddle. Somebody else also said that this is a rumor. I had this buzzing in my other car as well whenever pushed on the gas... So I figure it was run too close together but it looks like it may be another problem.

I had Buzzing two for years and it has nothing to do with wear you run your wires, their are power and ground wires throughout your car under the carpet so no matter where the remote and rca wire is ran it will be by one of those wires. The buzzing comes from poor grounding of amps/cars electrical or bad rca's and thats it (I did all the other methods of temporary grounding my rca's, ground loops and etc. but nothing helped in over three years-some of those things just toned the noise down). My buzz was eliminated after I sanded the paint under my factory ground wires for battery and engine block which they didnt do (along with other car companies also).

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The idea is that a large amount of DC through a length of wire will create a sort of electromagnet, which would interfere with your signal. But it would takes tons of power and the shielding on the signals and the power wire should pretty much knock down any interference.

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FINALLY! I have an update -- Alternator and batteries and cd player and front end speakers going in this week sometime. Woofer being shipped hopefully by friday.

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Cant wait to see pictures and good luck with the install.

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Boo just one picture, is that all we are worth?

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Boo just one picture, is that all we are worth?

Yeah I want to see the ass of that beast!

You would... I do too!

Hell-Razor, did you ever find anyone else to help you?

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Nope. But I managed to get the cd player ripped out (WOO!) only took me four hours. And then I got the wiring harness all soldered together and my cd player is working. Ill post pics tomorrow.

OH! and here you go Don and Mac (haha)img00036q.jpg

Edited by Hell-Razor

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Most things have been put in... but I forgot my phone to take pictures =(. Maybe Tuesday when I start to work on it again I will post some. Still need to wire the amps to the battery and link (have the wire laid already) the two batteries together. This isn't that hard but WOW is it time consuming.

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