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SQ Three Way Front Stage

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Easy to get derailed when people puke recommendations without asking questions.

What kind of car?

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You really could cover all the frequencies with a 2-way. It would be easier to tune as well. Really no need to get the imprint and the H701, one or the other is fine. The imprint will be more novice friendly, and the H701 is more manual tuning.

It is kinda pricey, but a Hybrid L8 pair matched with a Legatia Pro L1 would be a 2-way system that would take care of ~40hz and of course up through 25khz.

For something less expensive, I mean really "less expensive" is very relative.

Tang Band and Peerless have several options whether you are looking to spend 300 dollars or 600 dollars. There is just too much out there, in reality, how much do you really WANT to spend on speakers?

sorry for some stuff repeating, lots of stuff in this thread.

here's some more finite drivers:

for more inexpensive:

8" mid-bass: Tang Band W8, Peerless SLS 8, Polk db8450's, Rainbow W200's, CDT EF80's, Hertz Hi-energy 8's

4" mid-range: Tang Band W4, CDT (right now ES-4 golds on sale high-end stuff), Rainbow SLC 4's, Hertz Hi-energy 4's, MMats pro audio pro 4.0's, Morel Dotech 4's

Tweets: CDT TW-25's or 24's. Seas Prestige 1" Textile Dome tweet, Tang Band Ceramic tweets with cloth surround, Image Dynamics NX30's, Mmats pro audio pro 1.0's, Focal TN-47's, Morel MT12's

tried to get you a range of prices and a variety of companies.

Personally for something that is less than the Hybrids, the Rainbows and CDT's are top-notch. The Hertz actually remind of similar sound as pioneer premier. the tang bands, seas, decent stuff, very inexpensive if you wanted to get an idea of what they're like and wait and upgrade later they would be a good start/entry into the SQ world.

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Lord and here it goes again. Recommending drivers again without knowing how they will be utilizied.

To top it off, with an H701 it would be absurd to buy CDT, Rainbow or Hertz.

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and if a 2 way front stage will work better that would be fine.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both 2-way and 3-way. If this is your first attempt at an active setup, my suggestion would be to stick with 2-way initially. Appropriately tuning an active setup isn't as easy as it sounds.....it would be a much better learning experience, IMO, to start with a 2-way and once you gain some hands-on experience can decide if you think moving to a 3-way would be beneficial. And you would probably achieve better results with a 2-way initially due to the less complicated tuning requirements.

So any input on mounting locations or specific speakers would be great.

Problem is, there are advantages and disadvantages to everything.....what you need to do is decide what set of tradeoffs best suit your needs. Just briefly;

Speakers in kickpanels you have to worry about appropriate sizing and aiming of the kickpanels, legroom possibly being given up, early reflections from the underside of the dash, and having or acquiring the skill to build them.....but you typically gain more equalized pathlengths, ability to better aim the speakers, good imaging from both front seats, and while there are early reflections from the dash/etc there are steps that can be taken to tame them.

Mids in doors have the disadvantage of typically having worse aiming and not much room for decent aiming, more unequalized pathlengths requiring use of time alignment and inherently limiting good imaging to only a single seat, possibly have early diffraction and reflection due to the door panel that can be more difficult to tame, typically differing listening axis from each driver which not desirable and could decrease imaging/coherence.......but on the plus side, it's an easier install, with the proper processing and install considerations results can still be acceptable for a single listening position, easily accessible airspace for the midbass, and no legroom given up.

If you separate the tweeter from the mid (mid in door, tweeter in A-pillar for example) you may help your stage height at the expense of possible coherence and lobing at the crossover point, but that can be helped with proper tuning but typically requires proper tuning to get "right".

That certainly isn't a comprehensive overview, but should give you some things to consider when selecting your mounting locations and what best fits your time and abilities.

As for drivers, there are so many options on the market it can be difficult for us to make too specific recommendations, especially without knowing specifics as far as how they will be installed and used. Some of them will perform well IB in a door, others could benefit froman enclosure. So that's soemthing to take into consideration. Howhigh they will be playing (2-way or 3-way) for mids and how low they'llbe playing (tweeters) will also play a role. Seas, Peerless, Vifa and ScanSpeak are pretty much staples in the DIY community for building quality, well performing drivers at affordable prices. Scanspeak just released a new line, Discovery, which are reasonable priced. SB Acoustics is relatively new but from all reports are well performing drivers. The Dayton Reference line have good distortion performance but have some cone breakup issues that can limit how high they can be used on the top end. Usher builds good drivers, though are on the higher end of the mid-priced drivers. HiVi and Tang Band can be hit or miss....some of their drivers perform well for the price. LPG has pretty good performing small format tweeters, as does Seas. The LPG however don't do so hot crossed over very low (<2500hz), so for example LPG tweeter with Dayton Ref driver probably wouldn't be an optimal mix. If you want a low playing tweeter, chances are you'll have to end up with a large format tweeter. There's just dozens and dozens of options.

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On page 5 there is a link I provided at the bottom of the page to pictures of my car due to the fact I lost my camera. I have a 2004 Tahoe. First post explains pretty much everything.

And for the hybrid 2 way, about how much does that run? Will just that 8 and the tweeter be as good as a 3 way set up? And I am honestly not that worried about price due to the fact this will take a while to purchase anyway and I would like to get something I will be pleased with, although, if cheaper will sound "relatively" the same, that will suit me just fine.

So knowing that, I know brands and models pretty well, but a couple specific personal suggestions of a 3 way set would be great considering I don't have the resources to listen to all of these. I have searched around but I really just am looking for 3 models, not generalized brands that will blend well together. I have ordered the imprint for the time being, eventually if needed I will get the h701. I didnt necessarily want to mount in the kicks unless I had to, but the a pillars and dash would be fine.

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and if a 2 way front stage will work better that would be fine.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both 2-way and 3-way. If this is your first attempt at an active setup, my suggestion would be to stick with 2-way initially. Appropriately tuning an active setup isn't as easy as it sounds.....it would be a much better learning experience, IMO, to start with a 2-way and once you gain some hands-on experience can decide if you think moving to a 3-way would be beneficial. And you would probably achieve better results with a 2-way initially due to the less complicated tuning requirements.

So any input on mounting locations or specific speakers would be great.

Problem is, there are advantages and disadvantages to everything.....what you need to do is decide what set of tradeoffs best suit your needs. Just briefly;

Speakers in kickpanels you have to worry about appropriate sizing and aiming of the kickpanels, legroom possibly being given up, early reflections from the underside of the dash, and having or acquiring the skill to build them.....but you typically gain more equalized pathlengths, ability to better aim the speakers, good imaging from both front seats, and while there are early reflections from the dash/etc there are steps that can be taken to tame them.

Mids in doors have the disadvantage of typically having worse aiming and not much room for decent aiming, more unequalized pathlengths requiring use of time alignment and inherently limiting good imaging to only a single seat, possibly have early diffraction and reflection due to the door panel that can be more difficult to tame, typically differing listening axis from each driver which not desirable and could decrease imaging/coherence.......but on the plus side, it's an easier install, with the proper processing and install considerations results can still be acceptable for a single listening position, easily accessible airspace for the midbass, and no legroom given up.

If you separate the tweeter from the mid (mid in door, tweeter in A-pillar for example) you may help your stage height at the expense of possible coherence and lobing at the crossover point, but that can be helped with proper tuning but typically requires proper tuning to get "right".

That certainly isn't a comprehensive overview, but should give you some things to consider when selecting your mounting locations and what best fits your time and abilities.

As for drivers, there are so many options on the market it can be difficult for us to make too specific recommendations, especially without knowing specifics as far as how they will be installed and used. Some of them will perform well IB in a door, others could benefit froman enclosure. So that's soemthing to take into consideration. Howhigh they will be playing (2-way or 3-way) for mids and how low they'llbe playing (tweeters) will also play a role. Seas, Peerless, Vifa and ScanSpeak are pretty much staples in the DIY community for building quality, well performing drivers at affordable prices. Scanspeak just released a new line, Discovery, which are reasonable priced. SB Acoustics is relatively new but from all reports are well performing drivers. The Dayton Reference line have good distortion performance but have some cone breakup issues that can limit how high they can be used on the top end. Usher builds good drivers, though are on the higher end of the mid-priced drivers. HiVi and Tang Band can be hit or miss....some of their drivers perform well for the price. LPG has pretty good performing small format tweeters, as does Seas. The LPG however don't do so hot crossed over very low (<2500hz), so for example LPG tweeter with Dayton Ref driver probably wouldn't be an optimal mix. If you want a low playing tweeter, chances are you'll have to end up with a large format tweeter. There's just dozens and dozens of options.

Ok, thanks that was helpful. I think I want to do the doors for the midbass, although that would cause a loss of imaging. If I bandpassed that to a narrow range and used mids in the dash and tweets in the a pillars could that potentially help the imaging. And as for tuning, I have friends that used to compete in SQ, so they could be a big help with that. The problem is they have been out of the game for a while and are not caught up with recent products. I also want to do as much as I can by myself so maybe kicks can be saved for next time. But as for the doors, dash, and pillars, would that be a good idea?

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Lord and here it goes again. Recommending drivers again without knowing how they will be utilizied.

To top it off, with an H701 it would be absurd to buy CDT, Rainbow or Hertz.

I'm sorry, since when does what processor you're using have to deal with what BRAND name of speakers to purchase? THE OP WANTS SQ AND HAS GIVEN PLENTY OF INFORMATION OF HIS GOALS AND WHAT SIZE. If you still have no clue what he is trying to accomplish, then re-read the thread.

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Ok, thanks that was helpful. I think I want to do the doors for the midbass, although that would cause a loss of imaging. If I bandpassed that to a narrow range and used mids in the dash and tweets in the a pillars could that potentially help the imaging. And as for tuning, I have friends that used to compete in SQ, so they could be a big help with that. The problem is they have been out of the game for a while and are not caught up with recent products. I also want to do as much as I can by myself so maybe kicks can be saved for next time. But as for the doors, dash, and pillars, would that be a good idea?

Lots of good info there from Impious, but I guess i am the only one not afraid to name specific models of speakers I have either used or heard in person that I can have confidence in recommending.

I think that list I made above is pretty good, there are a ton more options out there, I mean I didn't name Treo which is one of my fav. companies, but I don't have much hands-on with their mids/highs only subs/amps.

as for the Hybrid two-way. It is not heard of that a few guys out there are using only L8's and Pro L1's as their complete system. No dedicated woofer and no midrange. This really depends on placement of the L8's though. In this type of setup the doors are probably not the best choice. best choice would be floor board next to the kick-panel. actually a pretty straight-forward install, and has proven to be excellent in SUV's, just can't be afraid to cut some stuff up. there are a few different build logs of doing this on the hybrid forums. Really for install tips, I would recommend looking through some build logs on www.buwaldahybrids.com whether you decide on their speakers or not, or even like their speakers or not, the installs are top-notch and prove themselves time and time again.

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Ok, thanks that was helpful. I think I want to do the doors for the midbass, although that would cause a loss of imaging. If I bandpassed that to a narrow range and used mids in the dash and tweets in the a pillars could that potentially help the imaging. And as for tuning, I have friends that used to compete in SQ, so they could be a big help with that. The problem is they have been out of the game for a while and are not caught up with recent products. I also want to do as much as I can by myself so maybe kicks can be saved for next time. But as for the doors, dash, and pillars, would that be a good idea?

Lots of good info there from Impious, but I guess i am the only one not afraid to name specific models of speakers I have either used or heard in person that I can have confidence in recommending.

I think that list I made above is pretty good, there are a ton more options out there, I mean I didn't name Treo which is one of my fav. companies, but I don't have much hands-on with their mids/highs only subs/amps.

as for the Hybrid two-way. It is not heard of that a few guys out there are using only L8's and Pro L1's as their complete system. No dedicated woofer and no midrange. This really depends on placement of the L8's though. In this type of setup the doors are probably not the best choice. best choice would be floor board next to the kick-panel. actually a pretty straight-forward install, and has proven to be excellent in SUV's, just can't be afraid to cut some stuff up. there are a few different build logs of doing this on the hybrid forums. Really for install tips, I would recommend looking through some build logs on www.buwaldahybrids.com whether you decide on their speakers or not, or even like their speakers or not, the installs are top-notch and prove themselves time and time again.

Has nothing to do with being afraid, but all to do with not making drivers fit into spaces that they shouldn't be used in. Mounting locations are huge when it comes to getting mids/highs to image right and using drivers that are appropriate for these locations are required.

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but I guess i am the only one not afraid to name specific models of speakers I have either used or heard in person that I can have confidence in recommending.

More correctly stated, you are the only one ignorant enough to recommend specific models before even fully understanding the particulars of how the OP will be using the drivers and his install plans, which are essential to knowing what drivers will and won't fit his needs. Anyone can throw out model numbers, making good suggestions that best fit the needs of the requester is much more important, however. You are also assuming the OP has the same sound preference as you.

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Ok, thanks that was helpful. I think I want to do the doors for the midbass, although that would cause a loss of imaging. If I bandpassed that to a narrow range and used mids in the dash and tweets in the a pillars could that potentially help the imaging.

Well, going 3-way and running midbass in doors does save one problem of aiming as that's not really important in the midbass frequency range. Time arrival is however very important in this frequency range and will need to be corrected electrically via time alignment......but I believe Imprint will attempt to correct time arrival, so that hopefully should be able to be corrected. It also would allow you to have ample airspace for the midbass driver, just need to be sure you select a midbass that will perform well essentially IB. What type of midbass performance are you looking for? Do you want them to be very "punchy", or just smooth and tight?

Where did you plan on mounting the midranges? Is there a factory location you will be dropping them into, or custom building a pod for them?

Also, were you using the H100 for the Imprint? Because from what I could find, it's only a 3-way processor (tweeter/mid/sub), meaning you wouldn't be able to go fully active 4-way (tweeter/midrange/midbass/subwoofer) through the H100.

But as for the doors, dash, and pillars, would that be a good idea?

It can work, and do well (from one seat) if tuned properly. There might be some hard-to-tame reflection issues depending on how/where the midranges are installed....but everything is a give and take, so sacrifices will always have to be made somewhere.

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Ok, thanks that was helpful. I think I want to do the doors for the midbass, although that would cause a loss of imaging. If I bandpassed that to a narrow range and used mids in the dash and tweets in the a pillars could that potentially help the imaging.

Well, going 3-way and running midbass in doors does save one problem of aiming as that's not really important in the midbass frequency range. Time arrival is however very important in this frequency range and will need to be corrected electrically via time alignment......but I believe Imprint will attempt to correct time arrival, so that hopefully should be able to be corrected. It also would allow you to have ample airspace for the midbass driver, just need to be sure you select a midbass that will perform well essentially IB. What type of midbass performance are you looking for? Do you want them to be very "punchy", or just smooth and tight?

Where did you plan on mounting the midranges? Is there a factory location you will be dropping them into, or custom building a pod for them?

Also, were you using the H100 for the Imprint? Because from what I could find, it's only a 3-way processor (tweeter/mid/sub), meaning you wouldn't be able to go fully active 4-way (tweeter/midrange/midbass/subwoofer) through the H100.

But as for the doors, dash, and pillars, would that be a good idea?

It can work, and do well (from one seat) if tuned properly. There might be some hard-to-tame reflection issues depending on how/where the midranges are installed....but everything is a give and take, so sacrifices will always have to be made somewhere.

Well, I am going to get the h701 later, which apparently can be connected to the imprint, at least I read of a couple people doing that. Oh, and the imprint does have time correction. So the four way won't be a problem then. As for midbass, I really like depth and a fullness to my midbass, but I guess smooth and tight would fit that description better than punchy. For the mids tweets, I really have no idea where to mount them in order for them to work well together in this size car. I have that link on the bottom of page 5 I believe that has some good interior pictures. I will not mind altering the dash or pillars so any modifications to that will work well.

And there is a considerable amount of airspace in the doors so I guess I have a lot of options there. But I did look at the hybrid 3 way system with the L8, L4, and pro L1, and it didn't look bad at all. The price was more than I expected, but if it is a good deal, that will be fine with me. I guess it will just take a while to buy it haha. As always though, I am still open minded.

Thanks.

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I guess my question would be how you plan to run a 3-way frontstage until you get the H701?

Reason I ask is because it might be better to run 2-way until you move to a more advanced processor like the H701. You could, in theory, run a 3-way frontstage off the Imprint by using an amplifier's built-in crossovers to lowpass the midrange and highpass the tweeter (for example).....but I don't know how or if the Imprint's auto-tuning function would be affected by this.

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I guess my question would be how you plan to run a 3-way frontstage until you get the H701?

Reason I ask is because it might be better to run 2-way until you move to a more advanced processor like the H701. You could, in theory, run a 3-way frontstage off the Imprint by using an amplifier's built-in crossovers to lowpass the midrange and highpass the tweeter (for example).....but I don't know how or if the Imprint's auto-tuning function would be affected by this.

No, I mean I am going to get that with the 3 way, so when I am putting it in I will have it.

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from my understanding of the imprint, it only effects eq and time alignment, but xover points are set by the user. you can run the entire "4-way" from the H100, but you would have to have amps that set the HP for the mid-bass and LP for the subs. the only real draw-back is that mid-bass and sub amps would be sharing the RCA signal strength from the sub-out on the processor. that really isn't a huge issue though.

I am ignorant for recommending speakers? Every driver I recommended is designed for IB which is exactly how the OP plans to install each driver. doesn't matter whether it is kicks, doors, dash, all the midranges and mid-bass are IB and that is how they are being installed. since he wanted to do a 3-way, on/off axis isn't a huge issue as off-axis mainly effects the midrange and its frequency range, which doesn't have to cover as many octaves sine it is a 3-way. Every driver I listed can work quite well in the install, some are simply better than others.

I do understand you are trying to get as much info as possible, but you haven't really asked any specific questions to the OP. In fact, it seems you spend more time replying to me rather than helping the OP.

also NCSU, I wouldn't worry about the Pro L1 tweet, the L1v2 will be plenty for you in a 3-way, the Pro L1 is much better suited in 2-way applications because of its lower frequency capabilities.

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Again. :(

And depending on locations there could be HUGE trade-offs using a 3 way network to run a 4-way setup.

I will guarantee that it is WAY more important to focus on the install than the drivers. HAT schmat, if you are at all concerned by budget the drivers aren't for you instead you should put your money into your install. Those of us who are actually trying to help instead of self-promoting actually understand this and until the OP really nails down the install won't give any arbitrary driver recommendations showing we actually do understand what makes a good install. You obviously don't understand this at all. :(

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I don't get where you get off trying to tell me I don't understand the importance of install? I made several recommendations along with HAT, I'm sorry the OP did some research and actually is interested in a company you clearly despise, get over it. I really don't see why you care so much? You have something against people spending real cash on high-end stuff? We get it, although you lack experience with HAT, you don't feel they are worth the money, and nor does Impious. Ok that's your opinion, got it, no need to keep re-peating.

OP: Can we get an idea of what your current thoughts are on install location, and what you current idea is for equipment? Then I can help you out on what you could improve on, and whether or not those drivers will work for your application. Also, I do apologize for so much petty childish thread-jacking.

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Obviously you DON'T get it. Install first, drivers second. Simple enough?

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I don't get what you think I don't understand install is important. YOU DON'T GET THE FACT THAT I KNOW HOW IMPORTANT INSTALL IS! THAT IS MY BASIS OF ALL INFORMATION! I asked the OP what his currents thoughts are on install, and then equipment, there is nothing wrong with that. stop trying to make some dumb comment after everything I say, you are not king of SQ, car audio, or this forum.

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Never said I was and definitely still have a ton to learn, but your recommendations aren't helping. You say stupid shit and recommend without understanding the OP's goals and I want to make sure he doesn't blindly follow you thinking you know what you are doing.

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:popcorn:

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So what are your recommendations on mounting locations for the other drivers knowing that I want to use the doors for the mid bass. And from what I understand that will be OK, I just will need time alignment for that, which I will have. Like if in the pillars; where, how should they be angled, what direction, etc. I am by no means any kind of install expert so I will need some help with that being that it is my first SQ active 4 way. I like having some drivers recommended though because I can at least research some people's personal favorites which doesn't bother me. It might be easier if I already know the speakers that I might be purchasing when choosing my locations, not saying that I will pick them first, just a better all around understanding could help. So any particular areas you think would work, or even pictures you have or have seen would be a great reference to work with.

Now I have been researching the deadening and I will be purchasing some tiles, as well as CCF, to add to my eDead and dynamat.

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Can you fit a 4" up on the dash? My guess is no, although there are a ton of 3" drivers that can do as much as you need as well. Exactly why knowing your mounting locations will help before recommending drivers.

How much space and fabrication are you willing to put into your dash is the first question I'd address.

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Now I have been researching the deadening and I will be purchasing some tiles, as well as CCF, to add to my eDead and dynamat.

CCF is ONLY good for stopping two rubbing surfaces from rattling.

Have you read the link in my sig? ;)

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Kind Of Off Topic And A Bit Of Thread Hijacking, But, Just What Exactly Did Happen To HAT While I Was Gone?

I Also See Some Opinions And Views On Their Products Have Changed...

SO SORRY IN ADVANCE FOR THE THREADJACK...

I have absolutely no idea. Seriously, I don't.

Back between 12/22/2007 and 6/15/2008, SSA was vying to become HAT's sole on-line retailer. We communicated back and forth several times about terms of this agreement, including a stocking opening order, pricing, and etc. The SSA admin stated "we want to be the #1 Hybrid Internet dealer as we are with a number of other non-mainstream brands...in addition, as we try to expand our competition team, Hybrid would be the mid and tweet of choice..." On 6/15/2008, I replied with the revised 2008 internet dealer terms and got no further response. In regards to becoming a dealer, there has been no communication since then (as far as I can tell with my Outlook files).

Late in 2008, there was some sort of a falling out with a few of the Team SSA guys (competitors). These guys came over to Team Hybrids. I sent a PM expressing my concern to the admins of this site, and the hope for a continued relationship. I wrote: “Sorry to hear about the team SSA guys disbanding...it wasn't my intent to "steal" competitors away.” The admin responded that they were all cool with HAT, but were just upset with these three guys only (as noted in a bit of sarcasm). I'm not much for soap operas, and assumed that things were fine between HAT and SSA.

Concurrently in this same time frame, we had an official Hybrid Audio Technologies forum here to answer questions about the product. The bulletin board went live on 01/25/2008. One day in March 2009 the forum was gone. On 03/22/2009, I sent an e-mail to the administration why the board was gone (expecting to hear that there was a hack, or a BB malfunction). The same day, the SSA admin replied “I will get back to you shortly on this, I have just been slammed this weekend just don't want you to think I am ignoring you.” Weeks passed. I queried again, and again. No reply, and no new future correspondence. It became clear that the forum had been deleted. To this day, I still have no idea why.

Fast forward a few months to mid-2009. Apparently one of these competitors that left SSA did something completely dumbass (not at my guidance and without my knowledge) and signed back up here and began answering HAT questions. Not cool. It was clear we weren't welcomed here anymore, and in fact, the three competitors that left SSA and joined Team Hybrids were all BANNED from this site. Pretty clear statement if you ask me. It was childish to come back here and sign back up. But it was also childish to BAN them in the first place for doing nothing more than changing competition teams (well, that's my opinion anyway).

Now, within the past week, I have gotten three complaints from customers from this site, indicating that there's a fair bit of bad-mouthing going on from SSA administration and one key member. If we couldn't come to an agreement on the terms of SSA becoming an internet retailer, and the amicable move of three competitors away from SSA to Team Hybrids, then I am sorry. I will grant you that the move by one former Team SSA member to sign back up and answer questions was undoubtedly STUPID (I just found out about this last week, when I was discussing the recent trend on this forum – he apologized to me for apparently being the catalyst for the recent childish behavior on this forum). Nonetheless, the onus of the problem falls squarely within the confines of this forum.

As someone suggested, I don’t send people to this forum to defend HAT products. I don’t need to, and don’t desire to. Don't give yourselves too much credit. This fella dkh came on his own free-will and was one of the three that alerted me to the turn-coat bashing of HAT products here.

You must agree that this has been handled POORLY from the get-go. Not telling me why the forum was deleted was in very bad taste, and now the product bashing...I don't know what to think. Sixteen months ago, HAT was the brand of choice for SSA, and you guys were falling over yourselves to represent it, and now suddenly it isn't as good as $30.00/pair midranges? Seriously? Since the unexplained demise of the relationship with SSA, and the deletion of my forum, have you seen me bash the SSA product? No. Have I not recommended it? No. Do I say stupid things like “the SSA sub is not as good as the Parts Express subwoofer for $30?” You know its better, and I know its better. What's gong on here is in VERY POOR TASTE.

I implore you to leave this post in tact, and not delete it or modify it, and not ban me, because it’s all the God’s-honest truth. If you have an axe to grind, BE A MAN and talk to me about it personally. I can be reached at 770.888.8200. I'll await your phone call.

Scott

Edited by Scott Buwalda

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