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wof131s

Fi Q 15" No Sound :(

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With the sub on the table( magnet on the table, cone up) the pos is on the left neg on the left for both terminals.

Positive on the left negative on the left for both terminals?

:orly3:

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With the sub on the table( magnet on the table, cone up) the pos is on the left neg on the left for both terminals.

Positive on the left negative on the left for both terminals?

orly3.gif

Yes for both terminals

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That's impossible. Thats like having both your right hand and left hand on your left arm.

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That's the problem then.

One of the rubber bands is backwards on one of the terminals. That happens occasionally..as we buy those things 25,000 at a time..and we do not make them.

Wire it so positive is always on your left, or very simply the one that has negative on the left hand side facing the sub..pop the rubber band off of the terminal and put the positive on the left side and the negative on the right side.

Problem solved :)

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That's the problem then.

One of the rubber bands is backwards on one of the terminals. That happens occasionally..as we buy those things 25,000 at a time..and we do not make them.

Wire it so positive is always on your left, or very simply the one that has negative on the left hand side facing the sub..pop the rubber band off of the terminal and put the positive on the left side and the negative on the right side.

Problem solved smile.gif

That how it is for both terminals, red is on the left and black is on the right. Or are you telling me to do something else. I guess i didnt get what you were saying.

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You just said in the other post that Red was on the left on one side and black was on the Right on the other side?!

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With the sub on the table( magnet on the table, cone up) the pos is on the left neg on the left for both terminals.

Reread what that says and you'll see the cause of confusion by other people in subsequent posts.

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Oh shit...lol..posting way early in the morning isn't a good idea.

Ok..

If you are facing the sub then positive should ALWAYS be on the left...if need be I will make a youtube video tomorrow how you should wire it...

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I wired the sub up this way first and got 1.3 ohms

Option 2 (series) = 2 ohm load

1_1ohm_dvc_2ohm.gif

This was the second way I wired the sub and got 1.3 ohms still.

Option 1 (parallel) = 0.5 ohm load

1_1ohm_dvc_05ohm.gif

Any Suggestion on what is going on.

No need for a video. Like i posted earlier, this was how i wired the subs with the pos terminal always on the right for both terminals. I though that the sub was out of phase, so i wired it the way i was told and it play for a few seconds them stopped it didnt smell or anything. I used a DMM on one terminal and its reading anywhere from 0.2~65 yes 65 ohms. On the other terminal it now reads anywhere from 1.3~100 ohms. Tried going from pos on one side to neg on the other and it reads open. So am sure its all f#$ked up now. Guess now ill really have to get a recone.

Edited by wof131s

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I wired the sub up this way first and got 1.3 ohms

Option 2 (series) = 2 ohm load

1_1ohm_dvc_2ohm.gif

This was the second way I wired the sub and got 1.3 ohms still.

Option 1 (parallel) = 0.5 ohm load

1_1ohm_dvc_05ohm.gif

Any Suggestion on what is going on.

No need for a video. Like i posted earlier, this was how i wired the subs with the pos terminal always on the right for both terminals. I though that the sub was out of phase, so i wired it the way i was told and it play for a few seconds them stopped it didnt smell or anything. I used a DMM on one terminal and its reading anywhere from 0.2~65 yes 65 ohms. On the other terminal it now reads anywhere from 1.3~100 ohms. Tried going from pos on one side to neg on the other and it reads open. So am sure its all f#$ked up now. Guess now ill really have to get a recone.

well positive on one side and negative on the other side would read open. They are different voice coils and not connected at all. Something is fishy about your DMM if the reading jumps around like that.

And actually earlier you said positive on the left. Now you're saying positive on the right.

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KU40 your right, pos is on the left for both sides and both voice coils are seperate, wasnt thinking. I tested the terminals with two different DMM and both gave same readings for both terminals. Ive tried testing a few different ways with the DMM but i still continue to get these jacked up reading and no output from the sub in a battery "pop" test. Ill just cut my loses and get something else. Thanks for all the input. You guy have been really helpful in trying to get the issue sorted out.

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Sucks we couldn't figure it out. I've never heard of this happening before. The weirdest part is that you can play both coils individually and it works.

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Yea man. I think its something to do with the coils IMHO. I think am going to get a recone from Fi or possible get a Hybrid made. I always woundered what difference in sound would there be with a motor from one company and soft parts from another. But anyways, thanks for all the input out there.

Edited by wof131s

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It won't matter if you get a recone..from us..or somebody else..and do the same thing, you are going to burn it up again. The coils are wound the exact same way every time as they are done on a machine..positive and negative is always the same. If you had it wired wrong and had the coils out of phase with each other they will fight each other and something will burn. IE No sound!

I made a video anyways for when you get a recone...just a helpful hint and a fyi, it is foolish to get a "Hybrid" made from somebody else...there is a reason behind why we use what we use in our subs.

I'll make a better video later with a real camera that isn't my phone..but here it is.

Hope this helps.

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Just for what its worth. I used a DMM to make sure that a each sub ohm rating was correct before uses (two dual 1 ohms voice coils subs wired to 1 ohm). This is how i know that i wired them correctly. Ive been dealing with car audio from i was 15 years old, and here it is 11 years later and i have my first sub fail on me. No disrespect to you, but I dont think that one company on this site is much better than the other when it comes to getting a recone. So getting a recone is my business and ill leave it at that with no more to say. But anyways, thanks to all that chimed in and lend their input. Thanks you

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Just for what its worth. I used a DMM to make sure that a each sub ohm rating was correct before uses (two dual 1 ohms voice coils subs wired to 1 ohm). This is how i know that i wired them correctly. Ive been dealing with car audio from i was 15 years old, and here it is 11 years later and i have my first sub fail on me. No disrespect to you, but I dont think that one company on this site is much better than the other when it comes to getting a recone. So getting a recone is my business and ill leave it at that with no more to say. But anyways, thanks to all that chimed in and lend their input. Thanks you

most problems are 90% human error and 10% manufacturer error, i owned my BL for a year+. instead of wiring it to 2 ohms i accidentally wired it to .5 ohms and thought something was wrong, nick walked me through everything and then found out the problem. he later called me and let me know what was going on. Whatever your experience is obviously a new phenomena to Nick. Have you even tried using it on another amp? have you tried to measure the load when it is all wired up? I would rather buy a recone from the company that made a very high quality woofer.

Edited by Julian

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I am getting a recone from a high quality company, one from this site. Enough said, am not going to get nothing else from this thread so thanks to all that lend their input.

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