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Help Going About Deadening My Doors

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So I am doing a completely new door setup. The inner skin to which the speaker is normally mounted to will be cut out. I am basically going to fiberglass a completely new door panel that will act as a sealed pod that will bolt on to the sides of the door. My question is how do I go about deadening this since the speakers will be housed in their own fiberglass enclosure?

This was my approach. Let me know what you think. I was going to deaden the actual steel door with a layer of damplifier then glue a layer of luxury liner ontop of that. I would then bolt in the fiberglassed pod. Inside the pod I would glue on a layer of overkill.

Does that sound about right? I want some expert advice as my theory might be wrong.

Each door pod will house 8 Dayton DC160 6.5" Midbasses and 4 Alesis 1" Soft Dome Tweeters. Is a single layer of the material I specified enough? Also how much do you recommend I buy of each product?

Thanks as Always,

Chris

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make sure to use lux pro since the new lux liner is just the mlv no coupling layer otherwise it sounds good to me..... maybe OK pro instead of ok on the fiberglass but either way

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maybe OK pro instead of ok on the fiberglass but either way

I cannot make out what you are saying.

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on the fiberglass i would say use overkill pro instead of the normal overkill BUT the normal overkill would work too so either or is fine, the pro would just help standing waves better and with 8 sets of mids so i think its worth the extra charge

Edited by EmperorJJ1

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on the fiberglass i would say use overkill pro instead of the normal overkill BUT the normal overkill would work too so either or is fine, the pro would just help standing waves better and with 8 sets of mids so i think its worth the extra charge

I was thinking about that too. The only problem is it's 3x thicker. I don't know if I am going to have enough volume =(

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If it is truly sealed, what are you deadening? If it is for the sake of reducing structure borne noise, then do things as you would on any other panel.

But before having this discussion I would rethink your sealed pods. Sounds to me like you are going to choke the heck out of those drivers.

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X2

I would rather run them as infinite baffle, if you are going to use them as midbass they shouldn't reach mechanical limits if u aren't using a lot of power.

8 of them should handle 400W, so if u have 200 or less watts i would just run them as infinite baflle.

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If it is truly sealed, what are you deadening? If it is for the sake of reducing structure borne noise, then do things as you would on any other panel.

But before having this discussion I would rethink your sealed pods. Sounds to me like you are going to choke the heck out of those drivers.

I calculated the amount of room I have and the volume seems to work. I was going to port them but didn't have enough volume.

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If it is truly sealed, what are you deadening? If it is for the sake of reducing structure borne noise, then do things as you would on any other panel.

But before having this discussion I would rethink your sealed pods. Sounds to me like you are going to choke the heck out of those drivers.

I calculated the amount of room I have and the volume seems to work. I was going to port them but didn't have enough volume.

What volume do you have? How did you choose what volume you thought you needed?

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If it is truly sealed, what are you deadening? If it is for the sake of reducing structure borne noise, then do things as you would on any other panel.

But before having this discussion I would rethink your sealed pods. Sounds to me like you are going to choke the heck out of those drivers.

I calculated the amount of room I have and the volume seems to work. I was going to port them but didn't have enough volume.

What volume do you have? How did you choose what volume you thought you needed?

I forget. I know it was possible though I talked via live chat with parts express about it. I think they said I needed somewhere around .3 cu ft / mid if i wanted to go sealed and around .5 cu ft / mid if i wanted to go ported. Don't take my word as I can't remember. I need to relook this again. There is enough room though =)

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I would highly recommend trying a test enclosure first as you will have to dial in the real volume and the easy way to do that in car and be dead nuts on is a lot of trial and error.

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I would highly recommend trying a test enclosure first as you will have to dial in the real volume and the easy way to do that in car and be dead nuts on is a lot of trial and error.

So are you saying make a test enclosure that would fit on my door panel first to get proper volume or are you saying make an external test enclosure and see how it sounds at various volumes?

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Not on the door, but something that you can use to simulate the location. ie build something you can place as close as possible and yes, try different volumes. Start with ideal and then see how the response is, depending on what you don't like adjust from there. Personally I'd build it too large and keep shrinking it as this is much easier than the other way around ;)

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Not on the door, but something that you can use to simulate the location. ie build something you can place as close as possible and yes, try different volumes. Start with ideal and then see how the response is, depending on what you don't like adjust from there. Personally I'd build it too large and keep shrinking it as this is much easier than the other way around ;)

yeaaaa without a doubt. I am going to do that before I fiberglass a completely new door. Thanks for the advice!

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