RLp sealed or Rli 10" ported: Fiberglass project

[req 0]

there is no way in hell you used 5 gallons of resin on that single box, and theres no way in hell it comes anywhere near 150lbs dude.

and if it does, then its over-engineered like 1000%

seiously should only take a gallon or two max of resin, and it should weigh about 35lbs at most when your done... i was going to say, all the wood, id sand all the edges rounded, and all the 90 degree corners like the one in the picture directly to the left of the baffle, id of cut a nice arc into it... that edge is gonna look stupid when its all finished..

could have (cosmetically) looked alot better. but it should perform quite well.

[///M5 2,833]

Overengineered, I am sure. I have never done this before and read too many blogs where the recommendation was 14-15 layers without realizing that they weren't using 2oz mat. Oops, guess it didn't need to be an inch thick but I guess the box flexing coloration should be minimized.

The box has 5.5 gallons of resin in it, at least 14 yards of 2oz mat, and a bunch of mdf (of course including a buch that I trimmed off) It is damn heavy now, but once I add in a 33lb driver I think it will be pretty close to 150lbs--more than twice as heavy as my 1" mdf double baffle, 3 cuft box.

There are a couple light coats of body filler on it now, but I am out of town for a week. As soon as I get home I will get on finishing it. I too realized after the fact I should have rounded that edge, luckily it doesn't pop out too far into the trunk so hopefully I can disguise it pretty good.....Ugh, can't wait to finish and start on the front stage!

[Acidburn 10]

Overengineered, I am sure.  I have never done this before and read too many blogs where the recommendation was 14-15 layers without realizing that they weren't using 2oz mat.  Oops, guess it didn't need to be an inch thick but I guess the box flexing coloration should be minimized.

The box has 5.5 gallons of resin in it, at least 14 yards of 2oz mat, and a bunch of mdf (of course including a buch that I trimmed off) It is damn heavy now, but once I add in a 33lb driver I think it will be pretty close to 150lbs--more than twice as heavy as my 1" mdf double baffle, 3 cuft box.

There are a couple light coats of body filler on it now, but I am out of town for a week.  As soon as I get home I will get on finishing it.  I too realized after the fact I should have rounded that edge, luckily it doesn't pop out too far into the trunk so hopefully I can disguise it pretty good.....Ugh, can't wait to finish and start on the front stage!

that is seriously over done as hell...

1" thick FG is uber ungodly strong

[Supa_c 1]

take a sledge hammer to that and it wouldnt make a dent.

Heck, you could probably run it over with a car

[///M5 2,833]

I have a tendency to over do everything, especially when I don't know. Actually when I finally measure the response of my fronts, I will be using a 24bit, 20Mhz (yep MHz) data acquisition card and a B&K mic to time align/flatten the response in my car. Don't really need that accuracy, but when you have it you use it. Being that I have never built a crossover, that may be as overbuilt and as interesting as well.

Any recommendations on what else I should go overboard on???

Oh, and Acidburn I love the Avatar!!!!

[Supa_c 1]

I have a tendency to over do everything, especially when I don't know.  Actually when I finally measure the response of my fronts, I will be using a 24bit, 20Mhz (yep MHz) data acquisition card and a B&K mic to time align/flatten the response in my car.  Don't really need that accuracy, but when you have it you use it.  Being that I have never built a crossover, that may be as overbuilt and as interesting as well. 

Any recommendations on what else I should go overboard on???

Oh, and Acidburn I love the Avatar!!!!

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HP

[///M5 2,833]

Well. Got back from CA yesterday. Just sprayed it with bedliner tonight, if all goes well I will have some extremely overwhelmed fronts come tomorrow!

I still might carpet it later, but wanted to have my stereo back.

[haydenlake 0]

Well.  Got back from CA yesterday.  Just sprayed it with bedliner tonight, if all goes well I will have some extremely overwhelmed fronts come tomorrow!

I still might carpet it later, but wanted to have my stereo back.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

looks sweet, I like overbuilt enclosures.

If the enclosure is that heavy I might be concerned with the rear suspension sagging a bit (and unevenly too since you most likely don't have another huge weight on the other side of the car) You could get a huge girlfriend!

I really doubt that thing will flex but the braces you added to the baffle are a great idea but it would be good to glass them in as well. If they are just placed there (yeah the fleece holds them down for a while) but they could vibrate.

overall great job far better than mine (any estimates on cost, not including labor of course).

later,

b

[///M5 2,833]

Conviently, I have a Dinan suspension and pretty much nothing will make it sag! As for an estimation on cost, I spent about $240 on the enclosure, but in reality could have easily built it for about half of that. I had a hard time sourcing the right material and built the mold with the wrong glass and too much resin.

Now, for the not so funny part. I made a whopper of a mistake when assembling the box. I used T-nuts and didn't glue them in place relying on their little hooks to bite into the mdf. Needless to say, 3 of 8 broke loose and wouldn't tighten. And you say what is the big deal with that? They wouldn't loosen then either. After a couple days of swearing--and delaying my install I finally got the bolts out and everything mounted in the car--about 2 hours ago.

I will spend some time listening to the sub (and breaking it in) over the next week and update my feelings; however, my first impression is that the clarity is superb. I have heard bass notes that were previously tonally identical to others even though they are not. They just weren't there with my twin JL's before. The output is very linear and makes it through my sealed trunk very well. On a sad note, it is a bit hard to evaluate as now my front stage is COMPLETELY inadequate--my next project of course.

So far, I am loving the Rl-p for sure. Thanks Mike!

[SoundSplinter 1]

Oh man, nightmare about those T-nuts! Sorry to hear about that

But pretty damn happy you're diggin' the RL-p!

Definitely keep us updated

[Acidburn 10]

yeah, i think the same thing happened to me with the T-nuts i used for my 8s

oh well, i'll figure out how to get em out when the time comes

[///M5 2,833]

Acidburn you were lucky with your T-nuts, mine broke loose before being able to tighten the sub. Oh well, they are out now. If anyone else uses these glue them like I usually do!

Allright back to it some more listening impressions.

First off a Wow is in order. The sub sounds awesome; however, if I were to install it again I would have broke it in first. It is crazy to drive around and hear the surround loosening up to the point where the sub starts getting louder and louder. Conveniently since my front stage is pretty sucky at the moment, I have a leftover L-pad connected to my amp from my previous install which makes those momentary gain corrections all that much easier.

On the same note, the L-pad seems to be unnecessary (except on real bad recordings). With my old JL

[///M5 2,833]

A little off topic, sort of: I am addressing the front stage. Last night I ordered up some Seas Excel W18's for the mids and I am getting my buy finger itchy about buying the Scanspeak D2904 (Alpine F1 knock off version) in the next couple of minutes. And if you want I will start a thread and document the install and passive crossover design in the speaker section?

[Acidburn 10]

A little off topic, sort of: I am addressing the front stage.  Last night I ordered up some Seas Excel W18's for the mids and I am getting my buy finger itchy about buying the Scanspeak D2904 (Alpine F1 knock off version) in the next couple of minutes.  And if you want I will start a thread and document the install and passive crossover design in the speaker section?

of course, we love pics and write ups

great review man, glad to hear another satisfied customer

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

I think it looks awesome, very nice box, it has to sound super sweet off that classic PG, I know dave E would love it

[SoundSplinter 1]

Killer review, glad to hear you are enjoying your purchase wholeheartedly!

Many thanks for the kind words

[Supa_c 1]

A little off topic, sort of: I am addressing the front stage.  Last night I ordered up some Seas Excel W18's for the mids and I am getting my buy finger itchy about buying the Scanspeak D2904 (Alpine F1 knock off version) in the next couple of minutes.  And if you want I will start a thread and document the install and passive crossover design in the speaker section?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

squeak loves those scan speaks

[Sinister Audio 0]

ya you really od on the the sub box. it only had to be like a 1/2" thick but oh well its already done. i had that tnut thing happen to me on an elevation audio pro 12 and that suck so bad. i had to take a cut off wheel and cut the bolt. it really sucks when you cutting a bolt out of a 350 dollar sub.

[wickedawsome 0]

do the stand on it test, im shure it will pass with ease

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

wow, thats a crazy amount of fiberglass, u coulda got by fine with half that im sure, u can jump on it without flex at like 7 layers, lol

[Supa_c 1]

I bet he could drive over it and it wouldnt budge

[///M5 2,833]

Well everywhere I read says make sure it doesn't flex. No of course they were referring to the whole box, but in my case you could stand on my mold and it wouldn't flex. As for driving over it I am sure it would hold up, but I probably won't try...