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Evil Series Subwoofer

Crescendo Audio now at SSA



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Infinitely Baffled The Do-Over. :P

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101 replies to this topic

#1
onebadmonte

onebadmonte

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The goal 140. My previous attempt netted me a 135 and change at 32Hz.

You can see my previous build here:

Original Build

This time I'm upping the anty with a pair of 18s and double the power. A mind boggling 900 watts. That's 900 old school class A/B watts via US Acoustics USB line. Why you ask? Because, they're cheap. The 2150 average about $100 bucks on ebay and the 2080 were about $40, which includes shipping. Here is a run down of the setup:

The car: 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cierra A.K.A The Cream Puff

Head Unit: JVC KD-HDW10 A basic CD player with a built in HD tuner and RCA outputs

Amps: 2 US Acoustics USB-2085 both at 80 watts x 2 @ 4ohms (mids and highs) & 2 US Acoustics USB-2150 both at 450 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms (subs)

Fronts: Powerbass 3.5" coax in stock location

Rear: MTX Thunder Axe 5-1/4" components

Subs: 2 Fi IB3 18"

Electical: Stock

I'll start off with a quick tear down.

Amps coming out. My beloved US Acoustics USB-4085. They'll be back later on for a fully active system experiment. :)
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Bye, bye Ascendant Audio Atlas 15s. You were truely one of a kind. You will be missed.
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Here is my artistic shot from the trunk.
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The great wall coming down.
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This on is at a funny angle
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A side by side of what going in versus what came out.
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Here is a side shot. the 18 dwarfs the 15. :)
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Here is the backside.
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I've got my fingers crossed that these 18s will make some serious noise. More to come.
1995 Olds Cutlass Cierra
H.U.: JVC KD-HDW10
Processor: JBL MS8
Front: PowerBass 3.5" Coax
Rear: MTX Thunder Axe 5.25" components
Subs: 2 18" Fi Audio IB3
Amps: 2 US Acoustics USB-2150 subs

Check it out HERE

It's a small world and people get boners for different reasons.


#2
Alton

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I'm tuned in just to see how you shoehorn those 18's into that thing. :popcorn:

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Link to The VAN's Build Log
Link to The Jimmy's Build log.

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My Review of an SSA DCON 12" subwoofer


Aaron Clinton wrote: "The XCON has it's own sound. The ICON is very full and smooth with a heavy low end. Lot's of grins from daily listening. The XCON on the other hand, is a little lighter on it's feet, little more pin point accuracy with collapse the chest pressure. Think of it in terms of heavy weaponry, the ICON being the bomb that is dropped far away and hits you with the shockwave, and the XCON is the guided missile to the chrome dome."

 

 


There is a start.  What don't you like about like about the passive results?

 

ie, it is always better to go about something relatively as it is much easier to define how to deal with the concern.  Exactly why I tell everyone to not jump in head first and buy what you think is your final set of drivers right away.  EVERY install you will learn something and want something to change.  This is the audio disease that we all have otherwise we wouldn't be here which means research to find the "best" solution right away will never lead you there.  Better to invest in things you can resell, but are improving the concerns you have right now than to go straight to the holy grail since like in real life it doesn't exist.


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#3
onebadmonte

onebadmonte

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Today I worked on the baffle spacers and the baffle itself. The baffle is two layers of 3/4" MDF. The subs will be flush mounted, so the first layer of MDF will act as a spacer. The baffle will be spaced back from the seatback sheetmetal 1-3/4" with strips of wood. The strips and baffle will be attached with some 1/4" bolts and some threaded inserts. Well enough of my blabbing here are some pics.

Here is the insert I'm using. This is what you get with IKEA furniture. You can buy them at Home Depot in 4 packs. I recommend ordering through Mc Master Carr. What 5 packs cost at Home Depot you can get a pack of a hundred through Mc Master Carr.

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All you do is drill the hole and thread them in with an allen wrench

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Viola! Nice threaded hole for a bolt. :)

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Here is one of the baffle spacers installed

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Up next is knocking out the center brace, it's too wide. The opening in the car is 40" wide. The baffle spacers over hang an inch to give me a mounting flange for the baffle. That leaves me with 38". I'm going to use an inch wide spacer down the center. After that I'll have 37" exactly what the OD of the 18's measure. Here's the center brace out. Yes I used a dremel. :P

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Here is the new center brace. 1" wide 1/8" thick metal strip. With all the wood strips on it should be plenty rigid.

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Here is an up close of my weld job. Flux core wire FTW! I know, I suck. Don't worry my flame suit is thick. :P

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Oh no! My first hiccup. The baffle is too wide to fit in through the rear because it's wider than the shock towers. :( To make things worse that welded brace is going to need to be removable to get the baffle in and out. Double FAIL!

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Calling it quits for today. Tomorrow should be better. LOL!
1995 Olds Cutlass Cierra
H.U.: JVC KD-HDW10
Processor: JBL MS8
Front: PowerBass 3.5" Coax
Rear: MTX Thunder Axe 5.25" components
Subs: 2 18" Fi Audio IB3
Amps: 2 US Acoustics USB-2150 subs

Check it out HERE

It's a small world and people get boners for different reasons.


#4
SteveMead

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Damn that sucks. im tuned in for this, the last set up sounded great!!

2012 WORLD FINALS
2nd place- streetbeat 4
3rd place - modified 4001+

#5
inkfx

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Hell ya. I want to hear this beast when it's done. If you need an extra set of hands let me know.
2006 Cadillac DTS

Front stage: 6.5" JL Audio Evolution VR CSi
Subwoofers: 2x 15" Sundown Audio Nightshade v1
Amps: Sundown SAZ-1500D
Electrical: Stock 160amp alternator, Yellowtop D34, Knukonceptz 1/0


#6
j-roadtatts

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:popcorn: tuned. Good craftmanship.

Looks like you got the flux core wire feed welder too, the welds aren't pretty but it works good on the thin stuff.
IGNORANCE IS BLISS.......

2006 Nissan Xterra Off-Road, Premium Rockford Fosgate 6-disc 7-speaker OEM system w/sat.

1999 Honda Accord, Alpine CDA-9886, PXA-H100, Sirius interface
Rockford Fosgate, 400.a4, Fostex FF85k- highs
Alpine MRP-F600, Aura NS12-513-4A- midbass
Alpine MRP-M2000, Fi 15" BTL fully loaded in 5 cu ft @32hz -sub
2 runs 1/0, XS Power D3400, XS Power D1200, DC Power 250xp alt.
Second skin Damplifier Pro, Luxury Liner Pro

#7
onebadmonte

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Thanks fellas. Should have more posted soon. :)
1995 Olds Cutlass Cierra
H.U.: JVC KD-HDW10
Processor: JBL MS8
Front: PowerBass 3.5" Coax
Rear: MTX Thunder Axe 5.25" components
Subs: 2 18" Fi Audio IB3
Amps: 2 US Acoustics USB-2150 subs

Check it out HERE

It's a small world and people get boners for different reasons.


#8
outhopu

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Just ditch the center support and build build up the center of the baffle more to do double duty as the support as well. It would be worth doing a frame around the opening with some 1/4" flat bar or angle just to give the baffle a more solid foundation. Bolting the lower edge to the floor pan would also be a good idea. Do you plan on sealing off the trunk from the cabin this time around? I can only imagine that eliminating the potential for cancelation should help you reach your goal. Don't worry about the set back it happens all the time when I build stuff. I'm still trying to get the IB set up finished in my friends Caddy. Looks like your on the right track though.

#9
sefugi

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Hangin' out to check out the progress. :popcorn:

#10
Aaron Clinton

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:fing34: :fing34: :fing34:

#11
onebadmonte

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I ground down the welds and got the center brace out. It's going to be a bolt in piece. I'm test fitting the baffle in and taking measurements. It's going to be a tight fit. Here are some pics.

Here is the baffle in place.

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With the baffle spaced so far back there is an interferance with the rear speakers and pods. I relief the baffle in the offending areas.

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Here is a side by side with the old baffle. It was fun while it lasted old baffle. :)

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I'm using the same threaded inserts to attach the baffle in vehicle and to mount the subs. 1/4-20s for the baffle and 10-32s for the subs

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In addition to the glue I'll be using drywall screw to hold the two baffles together

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Here is the finished baffle

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I couldn't help it, I just had to fit one in. I'm excited, but I have a ways to go.

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Here is a shot from inside the trunk.

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Tomorrows a new day. Hopefully I make just as much progress. :)
1995 Olds Cutlass Cierra
H.U.: JVC KD-HDW10
Processor: JBL MS8
Front: PowerBass 3.5" Coax
Rear: MTX Thunder Axe 5.25" components
Subs: 2 18" Fi Audio IB3
Amps: 2 US Acoustics USB-2150 subs

Check it out HERE

It's a small world and people get boners for different reasons.


#12
onebadmonte

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No much to report today. I savored a little bit of family time so the work was light. I notched the baffle corners to clear the rear speakers. Nothing fancy, just manual work. I started off with a dremel, and finished it off with file. Ugh, the dust, luckily I have a respirator.

Here is a full pic.

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Here is a close up of the area I clearanced.

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I wrapped the baffle today. Last time I used a funky fabric for some contrast. This time I'm going with black leather. Black leather? Well, there's a little story behind this one. I saved this leather from some sofas I used to own. As a mater of fact, these were the first sofas I've ever owned or should say my wife and I ever owned. We bought them when we first moved in together. We brought them with us when we moved from El Paso to San Antonio. They even made with us to our first house. I was bitter sweet to replace them with new ones because of the memories. Now the memories live on with a few new ones.

Here is the beginning

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The tricky part is wrapping around the areas I clearance for the rear speakers. I used the 3M stuff that comes in a can. I think it's the 77 line. Any who, here is the area in question.

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Here is a closer shot.

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The finished product.

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Up next the amps. Stay tuned.
1995 Olds Cutlass Cierra
H.U.: JVC KD-HDW10
Processor: JBL MS8
Front: PowerBass 3.5" Coax
Rear: MTX Thunder Axe 5.25" components
Subs: 2 18" Fi Audio IB3
Amps: 2 US Acoustics USB-2150 subs

Check it out HERE

It's a small world and people get boners for different reasons.


#13
stefanhinote

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    what are these ohms you people talk about?

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I like the leather, looking good.

What made you decide to do IB? for the sq? just something different then everyone else?
2002 volvo v40
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#14
onebadmonte

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I like the leather, looking good.

What made you decide to do IB? for the sq? just something different then everyone else?


The first time around was to have some boom on the cheap. This time around to be loud and different. :P
1995 Olds Cutlass Cierra
H.U.: JVC KD-HDW10
Processor: JBL MS8
Front: PowerBass 3.5" Coax
Rear: MTX Thunder Axe 5.25" components
Subs: 2 18" Fi Audio IB3
Amps: 2 US Acoustics USB-2150 subs

Check it out HERE

It's a small world and people get boners for different reasons.


#15
SteveMead

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  • Vehicle:09 silverado crewcab
    00 camaro SS
That look Great. keep up the nice work man!

2012 WORLD FINALS
2nd place- streetbeat 4
3rd place - modified 4001+




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