Car amplifier current draw problem

[Infinitelybaffled 0]

Ok, so I did an install for a friend in his 2009 Honda civic with a Sundown NS V.2 prototype and a sundown SAE-1200D and we have encountered sort of a serious problem. It seems as if there is some sort of a current draw coming from the amp when it is turned off because if he leaves his car off for more than 24 hours the battery is so drained that it can not start the car... The amp is definitely the problem because whenever I take the fuses out of the amp the car works perfect and there is no current draw. The amp also is completely off whenever the car is off (I checked) and is connected to the ACC fuse for the remote turn on since the car has a stock stereo system. I am completely at a loss as to how to fix this...HELP!

[ssh 924]

if you remove the +12v constant wire from the amp, will the amp still continue to draw power?

[shizzzon 461]

this is a time to get an ammeter.

[jcarter1885 995]

Do you have another amp just to install and see if it is doing the same problem to rule out the amp or faulty wiring? You have a stock stereo so are you using some device to tap into the speakers to get a signal or did you upgrade the headunit?

[Kanaworm$ 292]

Get a Digital Multimeter and trouble shoot the problem!

Try putting in a toggle switch to make sure you know the amplifier is turned off.

[Infinitelybaffled 0]

Do you have another amp just to install and see if it is doing the same problem to rule out the amp or faulty wiring? You have a stock stereo so are you using some device to tap into the speakers to get a signal or did you upgrade the headunit?

Ya... I tapped into the factory 6x9's in the back...I have an anmeter and I also have a SAZ-1500D that I can trade amps with......Is it possible that the amp is faulty and is drawing current? It does not seem like a common amplifier problem and + this amp works great! The problem is that it is not my car and I only have limited time that I can work on with this car.

EDIT: The toggle switch seems like a great idea as well other than the fact that if you forget to turn it off the batt will die. Id say a huge problem is that I looked at his battery and it looks a litttle bigger than a kinetik 800 lol and it is factory so any MINIMAL current draw could have a HUGE impact on his car I am begging him to put an extra battery in the back and he refuses.

Edited August 23, 2010 by Infinitelybaffled

[Kanaworm$ 292]

Try swapping out the amp to see if that eliminates the battery drain.

Check the connections on the battery for any corrosion.

Use the meter to check the voltage with the car off at the amp to see if it's still drawing current.

Double check the ground at the amp to make sure it is tight and secure.

[Infinitelybaffled 0]

Try swapping out the amp to see if that eliminates the battery drain.

Check the connections on the battery for any corrosion.

Use the meter to check the voltage with the car off at the amp to see if it's still drawing current.

Double check the ground at the amp to make sure it is tight and secure.

Do you honestly thing that corroded battery terminals or a bad ground could cause unwanted current draw from the amp? I only have a basic understanding in electronics but that does NOT seem right to me haha. I am only 18 and just going to be a senior in high school so I am by farrrrrrrrrrrrrrr a pro from this kind of stuff. I would assume that I am using the wrong fuse or the amp is getting a signal when the car is off or something. Tomorrow (Or today for that matter) I will check with an anmeter to see exactly how much current is being pulled though. Thanks for the help though!

[RaTtLz 3]

It sounds to me that you are onto something with the small factory batt. Could it be he is running the batt low enough so that the alt is providing current to the amp and the batt just can't charge? What are the gain and bass boost set too? The comment made about checking for corrosion was made (I believe) for the fact that if you have corrosion you won't be able to charge the batt properly. Good Luck in finding a solution!

[Infinitelybaffled 0]

Try swapping out the amp to see if that eliminates the battery drain.

Check the connections on the battery for any corrosion.

Use the meter to check the voltage with the car off at the amp to see if it's still drawing current.

Double check the ground at the amp to make sure it is tight and secure.

Do you honestly thing that corroded battery terminals or a bad ground could cause unwanted current draw from the amp? I only have a basic understanding in electronics but that does NOT seem right to me haha. I am only 18 and just going to be a senior in high school so I am by farrrrrrrrrrrrrrr a pro from this kind of stuff. I would assume that I am using the wrong fuse or the amp is getting a signal when the car is off or something. Tomorrow (Or today for that matter) I will check with an anmeter to see exactly how much current is being pulled though. Thanks for the help though!

For some reason I can't edit my post but I meant using the wrong fuse for the REM wire to turn the amp on BTW. And I will check for the corroded terminals today as well. I highly doubt there is much corrosion though as it is only a 1 year old car and is kept in a garage but I will check anyways.

[Kanaworm$ 292]

Why I said to check the terminals is just part of the trouble shooting process I use and I check everything.

May want to take the car to any autoparts store and have the battery load tested to make sure the battery isn't the reason.

[slim2fattycake 85]

Wait, so is the REM wire connected straight to the battery instead of the remote turn on from the head unit?

[jcarter1885 995]

Are you sure you hooked the remote wire to a turn-on/ingnition wire instead of a 12volt constant wire when you tapped into the stock wiring?

[Infinitelybaffled 0]

Wait, so is the REM wire connected straight to the battery instead of the remote turn on from the head unit?

I wish it was that easy haha. No, the REM turn on is connected to the ACC (accessory) fuse. The amp turns on and off when you turn the key in the ignition and I have tested that multiple times. That is what baffles me...Even when the amp is "OFF" (Does not have the "Power" light turned on) the battery still dies after about 36 hrs. The only link I have it to connect it to the amp is that this current draw problem does not happen when I pull the fuses out of the amp. Im starting to think that it is just a coincidence and the battery actually dies because he draws too much current when the car is running so when he turns it off the car dies. (Which is what somebody said in one of the above posts) I should probably load test the battery to see if it is ok too.

Are you sure you hooked the remote wire to a turn-on/ingnition wire instead of a 12volt constant wire when you tapped into the stock wiring?

I am fairly sure and I have tested it multiple times haha.

Edited August 24, 2010 by Infinitelybaffled

[Kanaworm$ 292]

With the key off and out of the ignition does your meter read 0 volts DC?