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Aaron Clinton

Install log on the SSA Mazda's

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Any questions I cannot field, Don will be able to pop in and help. :)

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Damn nice job Aaron.

I am VERY surprised at how little deadener you used. To think of how much I have used on my Yukon, what a HUGE wast of money.

Thank you for taking time to put this up. Hopefully this will help others do this the correct way and not the old brainwashed multiple layers ways of the past.

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Damn nice job Aaron.

I am VERY surprised at how little deadener you used. To think of how much I have used on my Yukon, what a HUGE wast of money.

Thank you for taking time to put this up. Hopefully this will help others do this the correct way and not the old brainwashed multiple layers ways of the past.

We did not get any shots of the doors or the floor with just deadener on it, so it might be a little misleading. But over all, yes, we used a great deal less then I have in the past.

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I will not get into the demise of the sled (Mercedes Brabus 300ce) at this time.

:ohsnap:

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The Protege5 Sounds very good with a 12" DCON in it :P

Installation looks great Aaron and Don :)

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Thank you. I own an 03 Mazda Protege ES and when I get ready to do some serious deadening (and not the single layer of fatmat I have in my doors now, lol) I now have a reference guid to work with. Thanks.

I love these cars, always wanted a hatch to play with. Car looks great, can't wait to see the audio install.

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:+1: for great info & pics of a correct install of sound deadener!

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The Protege5 Sounds very good with a 12" DCON in it :P

Installation looks great Aaron and Don :)

I went back to your topic to gauge space from the enclosure. I don't know if I am going to sacrifice that much space or not.

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Nice! I can't wait to do something like this. The noise floor in my car is already pretty low, but it would be awesome to have a dead quiet ride. Thanks for posting this, it will be a great reference for when I do this with my next car.

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:drink40: :drink40:

Great thread here Aaron and Don!

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WOW !!! Awesome work on your ride !!! Very impressed !!! Can't wait to see the system build !!! :drink40::popcorn:

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Wish we could hear a before/after clip over the internet. But it looks good, im sure Don worked his magic and made another customer very happy! I'm looking forward for the rest of this car's build. :drink40:

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Wish we could hear a before/after clip over the internet. But it looks good, im sure Don worked his magic and made another customer very happy! I'm looking forward for the rest of this car's build. :drink40:

The front quarter panels are untreated, but for the interior, you really have to get into the car with the engine off to get the full, as I call it, cocoon effect.

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hmmm i have door , mlv, then ccf

crap i guess i did it wrong

Not sure what you mean - this was door / mlv / ccf too. The ideal would be a sandwich with CCF on ether sine and MLV in the middle since the sheet metal inner skin and trim panel are both hard surface from which the MLV should be decoupled. Anything other than that is a compromise and doors almost always require them. If you get a layer of CCF and MLV between the inner skin and trim panel, no matter which order, you'll get a good result. I seriously doubt that it is possible to detect a difference based on order.

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Are the layers of MLV and CCF glued together? Or are they always separate and floating? Also pic 27 shows a majority of the floor covered with the factory deadener. Can the CCF and the MLV be put over the factory deadener and just fill any exposed sheet metal with CLD tiles? Were any CLD tiles used on the doors? Any areas of the door one should pay attention to? Thanks.

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Are the layers of MLV and CCF glued together? Or are they always separate and floating? Also pic 27 shows a majority of the floor covered with the factory deadener. Can the CCF and the MLV be put over the factory deadener and just fill any exposed sheet metal with CLD tiles? Were any CLD tiles used on the doors? Any areas of the door one should pay attention to? Thanks.

The CCF and MLV are just laid on the floor - gravity, seats, trim and carpet hold them in place. On vertical surfaces or horizontal surfaces where they might move around they are anchored with Velcro strips.

We would have liked to remove the factory deadener on the floor. It's a very thick layer of asphalt. Cleaning it out would have added another day to the project and we didn't have another day to add. Sometimes you can remove asphalt pretty quickly with dry ice, but it usually takes a heat gun and a lot of scraping then cleanup with mineral spirits. If at all possible, remove asphalt. If you can't, adding CLD Tiles to any resonant areas of bare sheet metal is the next best thing. If the factory material is something other than asphalt it will be almost impossible to remove and there really isn't any reason to do. Again, supplement with CLD.

The doors had 5 CLD Tiles added to the outer skin and 1 or 2 added to the inner skin. Packing the space behind the side impact beam with EBR turns the outer skin into two distinct panels. We centered half the tiles above and half below the beam.

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