Walling the Accord

[DarkTinman 9]

I will soon be working on walling my 1997 Honda accord with 2 18 inch DC subwoofers (level 4 with level 5 soft parts), running on 1 (soon to be 2) HC1800 batteries with stock alt, 1800 kenwood amp, zero gauge.

Now i will be working on this project and i should be done sometime after December. My question for any car audio smarties out there is this, I will post the stats of the subs below for the level 4's and the level 5's. Now keep in mind that they are STILL level 4's but they contain level 5 parts (such as motor and spider). So my subs will fall in the middle of level 5 and level 4. Now the real question is this, What amp do you think i should be running to these woofers? I will be SUPER pissed if someone post something like, Alpine, MTX, Rockford, etc, etc. These are BRAND names that will NOT push the RMS i need on these subs. If you don't know much about car audio, PLEASE don' t post useless answers like that!

So what do you think? I was looking at maybe some AQ's but I'm not quite sure. If you have any amps you are selling, feel free to let me know!

Level 4

The Level 4 sub is a large double stacked motor weighing in at almost 30LBS each, wrapped in a magnet boot with a chrome top plate and T yoke yielding 23.5mm of X-Max

You also get with the upgraded progressive spiders, cone, surround, 3" coil, cast basket, push terminals and upgraded lead wire.

The Level 4 is rated at 1000w RMS and 2000w peak. Designed for ported enclosures and is a great choice for high-powered daily systems and competitors Key Features

• Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly

• Multilayered polymer foam surround

• Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo

• 8”OD semi cup progressive roll spider

• Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire

• Cast aluminum black frame

• FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined

• Rubber mounting gasket

• Chrome spring loaded push terminals

• Dual 2 ohm 3” Hi-temp Aluminum voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former

• Rubber magnet cover

Level 5

73lbs triple stacked 1" slug, FEA optimized monster. We use a 8-layer flat wound 3" coil. Its available is D1ohm or D2ohm configurations. We also use upgraded multiple progressive spiders, upgraded cones, surround, lead wire, a cast basket and push terminals.

Key Features

• Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly

• Multilayered polymer foam surround

• Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo

• 8”OD semi cup progressive roll spiders

• Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire

• Cast aluminum black frame

• FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined

• Rubber mounting gasket

• Chrome spring loaded push terminals

• Dual 1ohm or 2 ohm 3” 8 Layer Hi-temp Aluminum voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former

[Duran 387]

Brand name amplifiers will do the same power non brand name amps will.

Your DC 'hybrids' will be level 5's. There is no part from a Level 4 on them.

[Kanaworm$ 292]

If your not interested in the "Big Box" brand names then I would suggest doing some research.

Sundown is a great brand!

[Notorious97200 339]

You're in AZ, an MTX TE 4000 would be a smart choice, don't you think ?!! If you ever have a problem with the amp, you would be super close to their factory, or HQ.

Here, we like Sundown Audio, but I will not tell you they are the very best in the world, but I am happy with mine.

I did not see if you already have the subs.

good luck.

[DarkTinman 9]

Yeah sorry. I know that brand names can be good. It's just that I get a lot of my questions answered by people who honestly don't know what they are talking about sometimes. And they like to recommend things that would never work.

Oh really? I had no idea why they weren't just level 5's... So what's the difference from the upgraded 4's and the Level 5's? Your saying nothing??

What do you mean Big Box brand names?

yeah i hear Sundown, American bass, AQ, crescendo and some others. Still not sure honestly...

[Duran 387]

The baskets, terminals, and cones are the dame for the Level 4 and 5. If you put together a Level 5 motor, with a basic 12 spoke steel basket, and put a Level 5 coil with suspension on it is completely a Level 5.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

So you want a no name amp and have unlimited funds?

Thats what i got out of it.

[DarkTinman 9]

Haha no. I want a reliable amp. And i don't have UNLIMITED funds. No one really asked my price range. But i can buy whatever amp honestly, price isn't THAT big of a deal

[pdubb 5]

well then, what is your price range? and are you planning on further upgrading your electrical system?

[DarkTinman 9]

Um probably around 500-800. Seeing as most amps sit around 750ish. And yeah maybe, it's a one step thing at a time. I will upgrade the alt, more batteries, and some secret stuff! But yeah i plan on upgrading for sure!

[DarkTinman 9]

Also i have some more questions. Me and my engineer friend were talking about how we want to build this box. We came across some more questions that we wanted to throw at you all. All answers are GREATLY appreciated!

First off, we wanted to have a Removable Front Piece, meaning, where the front of the wall/where the subs will be mounted to, if we made it a removable piece but put rubber gaskets over the sides so that it will be sealed. Now, as general as this is, my question is, will it not be able to seal properly and will i lose air/numbers because of it. The reason we want to do this is so that we can get to the subs and easily get into the box etc. What do you guys think about this? We would be screwing in/bolting the front piece. Double nuts etc. Everything would be secure.

Second, mounting the subs. I have looked at builds and i understand how people do it sorta, but no one really explains what bolts they use. We were both wondering what exactly we would use. We aren't sure if wood screws would be enough. Also, i do understand how to make subwoofers flush and stuff to the box but i just don't understand what the screws need to be!

Third, and lastly, I have talked to many people about the different boxes and sizes. I have learned about bottoming out and more about how much the box size matters. We (when i say we i am talking about myself and the person who is the engineer helping with the project) were assuming that we just need to build the box big and tune the port. Well with all of this new information, i don't even know anymore. So the biggest thing is, what is the minimum and (maximum?) space we can have for the box with out bottoming out or doing anything that could harm the woofers. I honestly have a lot of questions about this part and this is the most crucial part of the box!

Thanks again for all of your answers, you guys really have helped me along and i look forward to more of your help!