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Broken case on 250XP. New Design in the works?

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The purpose of this thread is to discuss the design flaw of the 250XP alternator case. This thread is NOT to BASH on DC Power so DO NOT use it to do so. I am here to discuss ONLY fact's, and help improve on design quailty.

The mounting ear has broke twice on my 250XP alternator, in under a year. This is installed on a 2.3L 4 cyl equipped 99' honda Accord. The case is weak due to not enough material left around the mounting ears and the bracket allowing too much movement.

From what I understand DC Power will be redesigning the case and leaving more material. I will post pics of the new one if Rob does not.

If this happens again I would hope for a bracket redesign also.

Heres pics, the first ones are installed before breaking.

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A few angles of the factory bracket.

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The DC bracket.

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its broke close to the same place both times. These are of the second time.

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Yes its very tight.

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Here is a couple pics of the first time it broke. took a little bigger chunk.

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The side by side with the OEM.

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Heres how the Nippindiso mounting ear is.

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The new housings are done, at this point we are just waiting for them to machine the fixture so they can start machining the new housings.. We've discussed this before in a diff thread so I won't get into the why again, just that it's already been addressed and the new housings WON'T break... PM me your email address and I'll send you a pic of the new housing... Rob

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Always good to see a manufacturer working with a customer to fix a problem like this. DC Power is one of the two companies I will consider when I purchase my new alternator this spring, and a big part of it is the customer service!

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Good to see they got you taken care of. :drink40:

Almost looks like the aluminum had porosity and caused weak areas in the housing and when they machined it it got worse as the material got thinner.

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02 Honda accord 2.3L is what I have.

Have had mine break in he same spot 2 times also and je 2nd time the bracket broke also. Rob has talked to me about the new design also. It looks to be good but I'm still concerned about the bracket that you use ot tension. I loved the alts when it worked. Kept me at 13 volts with 2 3500s strapped at 1 ohm. Hope things grt better for us accord owners.

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Thanks for the input DarkTinman and Rainman215.

I think the lower backet could use a gusset. This would eliminate alot of the movement. I would think Rob would agree as he claims this is the only car these cases are breaking on. I am still waiting to see the new case design. BUT plan on welding a gusset into the corner of the lower bracket anyways, as I am tired of swapping alternators in and out, plus the waste of shipping costs.

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That's exactly what my dad said about the bracket when I showed it to him compared to the stock bracket. Once bolted up, I could move the end of the dc bracket by hand. The stock bracket is smaller but WAY beefier

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Another item to keep in mind is the belt tension. Since the tensioner bracket is somewhat flimsier than the stock, the tighter you tighten the belt the more it will tend to pull on the bracket. A reworked case, gusset, whatever the steps taken to beef things up, the belt should still only be tight enough to prevent slippage.

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This is where a gusset should be.

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That's exactly what my dad said about the bracket when I showed it to him compared to the stock bracket. Once bolted up, I could move the end of the dc bracket by hand. The stock bracket is smaller but WAY beefier

A bigger gusset that mimics the OEM one would be ideal. But would require rolling the gusset plate to the arch of the DC bracket and welding on the bottom, the DC bracket may need to be alittle wider to pull this off. Would also need a drain hole of course.

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Have you welded the gusset on there?

I have not, but have the tools.

Another item to keep in mind is the belt tension. Since the tensioner bracket is somewhat flimsier than the stock, the tighter you tighten the belt the more it will tend to pull on the bracket. A reworked case, gusset, whatever the steps taken to beef things up, the belt should still only be tight enough to prevent slippage.

Definetly, and with a correctly designed bracket and case the only thing overtightening will do is burn out you bearings.

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A bigger gusset that mimics the OEM one would be ideal. But would require rolling the gusset plate to the arch of the DC bracket and welding on the bottom, the DC bracket may need to be alittle wider to pull this off. Would also need a drain hole of course.

I think you've got it figured out for certain.

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Hey another question for you. I talked to Kyle and he is gonna hook me up with the new improvements once they come in. But, if i am hearing belt squealing, i tighten the belt, correct?? I know it sounds REALLY stupid but i was talking to other people and they said to loosen it. So today, when putting my stock alternator i tested it. Loosing obviously made the belt squeal due to the lack of tension and grip. So i am wondering, is it different with the DC alt? I wouldn't THINK so but i don't know why people are telling me to loosen it. To late now obviously lol

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Hey another question for you. I talked to Kyle and he is gonna hook me up with the new improvements once they come in. But, if i am hearing belt squealing, i tighten the belt, correct?? I know it sounds REALLY stupid but i was talking to other people and they said to loosen it. So today, when putting my stock alternator i tested it. Loosing obviously made the belt squeal due to the lack of tension and grip. So i am wondering, is it different with the DC alt? I wouldn't THINK so but i don't know why people are telling me to loosen it. To late now obviously lol

If the belt is squealing than its too loose. This go's with all alternators and belts for that matter. The other thing to add is once a belt has slipped enough, the belt and pulleys will become glazed and will continue to slip and squeal no matter how tight the belt is.

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We are going to gusset the brackets for sure, just a matter of how exactly. This case just was a fuckup from the get go from the machine shop, hence why we cast it out of A356.. The new housing will fix the problem, but when Dave did the bracket for this we really should have made the adjuster arm out of 3.8".. It was originally designed for our 180, in which case it works like a champ. What I just dont get is the first one we did, on a local car runs 6K watts, beats the ever loving shit out of it, and has had it in for a year now and hasn't had an issue.. I will say one thing though, these Accords shake like a mo-fo under load and the case with the issues it had just wont handle the torsional stress.... A fix is coming, although just not freaking fast enough... Rob

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well, its confirmed.. when this sorry ass DB elec. alternator i got takes a shit im goin DC Power! customer service is great and seems like one hell of a product.

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Yeah. What is the news, and whats up with not answering any calls, emails, or posts?

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Yeah. What is the news, and whats up with not answering any calls, emails, or posts?

Probably that would be because I'm working 18-20 hours a day.. Not to be a smart ass but right now, I personally am literally impossible to get ahold of most days.. If you guys need help, Stan is the easiest to get ahold of during the day, ex 202, if he doesn't answer, leave him a voicemail. Kyle, Dave, and I are usually in the back building and shipping most all day so if you need to catch us, before 9:00 is your best bet, or after 5:30. It's 12:30 now, and I'm still at the shop just finishing my day... Rob

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Yeah. What is the news, and whats up with not answering any calls, emails, or posts?

Probably that would be because I'm working 18-20 hours a day.. Not to be a smart ass but right now, I personally am literally impossible to get ahold of most days.. If you guys need help, Stan is the easiest to get ahold of during the day, ex 202, if he doesn't answer, leave him a voicemail. Kyle, Dave, and I are usually in the back building and shipping most all day so if you need to catch us, before 9:00 is your best bet, or after 5:30. It's 12:30 now, and I'm still at the shop just finishing my day... Rob

Oh i understand. But i have called and left a message with everyone's extention i could get and still I got no answer. Like i said in the other thread. I understand you guys are busy, but it would mean a lot of after leaving SEVERAL voice mails on SEVERAL different peoples machines, i could get at least get ONE call back. I know you are busy but i work also, it's hard to even fit a phone call into my days sometimes. But here i am SOL because my daily drivers DC power alt snapped on me.

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Yeah. What is the news, and whats up with not answering any calls, emails, or posts?

Probably that would be because I'm working 18-20 hours a day.. Not to be a smart ass but right now, I personally am literally impossible to get ahold of most days.. If you guys need help, Stan is the easiest to get ahold of during the day, ex 202, if he doesn't answer, leave him a voicemail. Kyle, Dave, and I are usually in the back building and shipping most all day so if you need to catch us, before 9:00 is your best bet, or after 5:30. It's 12:30 now, and I'm still at the shop just finishing my day... Rob

Oh i understand. But i have called and left a message with everyone's extention i could get and still I got no answer. Like i said in the other thread. I understand you guys are busy, but it would mean a lot of after leaving SEVERAL voice mails on SEVERAL different peoples machines, i could get at least get ONE call back. I know you are busy but i work also, it's hard to even fit a phone call into my days sometimes. But here i am SOL because my daily drivers DC power alt snapped on me.

How about a name to go with a forum name?? I can't look for something if I dont know what Im looking for...

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