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Broken case on 250XP. New Design in the works?

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It's not that it takes longer to make a sticker, it's that fedex express came too early and none of the hondas were ready for shipment. I can't ship something express if express already came.

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SO are the rest of these shipping out today? aka mine?

name??

Jared Wight. I believe service order #107 is what Stan told me.

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Jared Wight. I believe service order #107 is what Stan told me.

Jared, I dont think yours did ship and I don't know why. I honestly don't know how one of these alternators didn't get on our build list, but yours didn't. Trust me, I built every single one of the Hondas, if it was on the list, it got built and is shipped. d I'm still at work so I will go build yours now and ship it tomorrow.

Phi, your alternator shipped today via 2 day because I forgot to ship it when I said I would, and that was my fault.

Also, in Kyle's defense it really isn't as easy as you would think to make a shipping change quickly, not when it involves walking a couple hundred feet from the back of the shop to the office and getting distracted 10 times between points A-B... When FedEx shows up an hour early, it REALLY F's things up especially when your trying to ship 40 packages a day and trying to make sure that ALL 40 of them get bagged, boxed, labeled (on the alternator), with correct paperwork, harnesses, and everything else and then, making sure the right label gets on the right box. With an average process time of ~5 min/package, 40 packages takes a LONG time to do and it's NOT easy. Trust me, you want to see a chinese fire drill, come watch us between 2-5:00 every day.

We're putting more and more inventory on the shelf as fast as we can build excess stock so things would ship faster, but it's hard when we have a seemingly finite amount of parts (still waiting on suppliers) and only so much time.. On the upside though, we do have the capability to (when we have parts) build EXTREMELY fast.. I took one order at 4:00 today, at 4:05 the housing was in the mill, at 4:07 my brother was building it, and at 4:12 it was in shipping.

Anyways /rant

Jared, if you want your alternator for the weekend I'll make sure you have it Saturday, just either call and/or PM Kyle and make sure you let him know if you need it that quick. If not, I'll ship it 2 day.

On the upside, I really dont think you guys will have any problems any more. We put a nice solid gusset in the bracket to strengthen it up, and the casting is WAY stronger. It should be the end of the problems on the Accords..

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Jared, your brand new 270XP and bracket is all done sitting on the shipping counter. The only thing I don't have is one of the adjuster bolts (the one that goes through the case and has the threaded boss on it) if you have either your stock one or the one that was on your bracket, you can just re-use that and everything else is new.. Let us know, Rob

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Thanks for the reply Rob. Regular shipping is fine. I have the adjuster from the last bracket, so no worries there either.

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Now that this thread has run it's course, PLEASE feel free to voice any opinion's you need.

I will also note that I started a GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE thread the last time DCPower fixed my alternator. I will also note that I work in a VERY customer service oriented job, (tattoo artist) and recognize your guys attention to building your business. So good luck to you in your business venture's.

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Well put it on now!!! Post pics, voltage, thoughts... Whatever. I need my fix.

Sorry, i posted it before i had to leave for work. It looks interesting. You can see the casting is actually thicker and now instead of one hole for the mounting, you have three. I will post up pictures tomorrow

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Alright, so i have some news...

I installed the alternator, was a bit troublesome like the first time to get it in but i did eventually get it in. Before turning on my car i had my dad check over it to make sure i installed it right and had a certified auto mechanic check it. Was in perfectly. Strangely enough, whenever i start my Honda accord everything is fine and turns on great. If i turn on my A/C my car takes a heavier load which as always the RPM's of my motor go down and my car has to work harder.

At this point my car shakes TREMENDOUSLY and the first time i thought my car was about to stall out, my car is an automatic. This also happens when i stop at red lights, slow down near a dead stop somewhere, even when i put my car in park after driving it. Even with the A/C off. I don't know if it's the alternator but all i know is that this problem started happening after i put in my alternator.

My car is currently being inspected for anything that could be wrong with the car other then the alternator, but i figure i should post this up for everyone

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Alright, so i have some news...

I installed the alternator, was a bit troublesome like the first time to get it in but i did eventually get it in. Before turning on my car i had my dad check over it to make sure i installed it right and had a certified auto mechanic check it. Was in perfectly. Strangely enough, whenever i start my Honda accord everything is fine and turns on great. If i turn on my A/C my car takes a heavier load which as always the RPM's of my motor go down and my car has to work harder.

At this point my car shakes TREMENDOUSLY and the first time i thought my car was about to stall out, my car is an automatic. This also happens when i stop at red lights, slow down near a dead stop somewhere, even when i put my car in park after driving it. Even with the A/C off. I don't know if it's the alternator but all i know is that this problem started happening after i put in my alternator.

My car is currently being inspected for anything that could be wrong with the car other then the alternator, but i figure i should post this up for everyone

How long have you driven with the new alt? Try letting the car idle for 10 minutes, see if the computer corrects it.

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Weak engine/strong alt

Mine comes in today so I'll be updating within the hour of Installation.

Once mine is in I'm hitting the highway balls to the wall.

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Alright, so i have some news...

I installed the alternator, was a bit troublesome like the first time to get it in but i did eventually get it in. Before turning on my car i had my dad check over it to make sure i installed it right and had a certified auto mechanic check it. Was in perfectly. Strangely enough, whenever i start my Honda accord everything is fine and turns on great. If i turn on my A/C my car takes a heavier load which as always the RPM's of my motor go down and my car has to work harder.

At this point my car shakes TREMENDOUSLY and the first time i thought my car was about to stall out, my car is an automatic. This also happens when i stop at red lights, slow down near a dead stop somewhere, even when i put my car in park after driving it. Even with the A/C off. I don't know if it's the alternator but all i know is that this problem started happening after i put in my alternator.

My car is currently being inspected for anything that could be wrong with the car other then the alternator, but i figure i should post this up for everyone

Sounds like you should at least do a tune up on it, things like plugs/wires.

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Burnt exhaust valve it sounds like at Tinman. Alt is working flawlessly. Thanks guys. Rests at 14.9. Old alt was like 14.4 bumping lowest I saw was 13.6 usually it's LOW 12s. Yesterday i was demoing alot and my Voltage was 12 flat lol. Once i see 11s i stop.

I'll keep this updated as time goes on.

Btw this is 2 saz 3500s strapped at .5 per amp. 4 XS 1200s and 1 5100... These batteries never had a good charging. For the months I've had them in they've just run off the stock alt... Since October. And trust me I've been beating on this system damn near everyday. That is all lol. DC POWA!!!

Edited by Rainman215

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Burnt exhaust valve it sounds like at Tinman. Alt is working flawlessly. Thanks guys. Rests at 14.9. Old alt was like 14.4 bumping lowest I saw was 13.6 usually it's LOW 12s. Yesterday i was demoing alot and my Voltage was 12 flat lol. Once i see 11s i stop.

I'll keep this updated as time goes on.

Btw this is 2 saz 3500s strapped at .5 per amp. 4 XS 1200s and 1 5100... These batteries never had a good charging. For the months I've had them in they've just run off the stock alt... Since October. And trust me I've been beating on this system damn near everyday. That is all lol. DC POWA!!!

You should get an XS Power battery charger. Your alt isn't going to charge up depleted batteries.

It would suck to ruin a great alt and batteries.

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Alright, so i have some news... I installed the alternator, was a bit troublesome like the first time to get it in but i did eventually get it in. Before turning on my car i had my dad check over it to make sure i installed it right and had a certified auto mechanic check it. Was in perfectly. Strangely enough, whenever i start my Honda accord everything is fine and turns on great. If i turn on my A/C my car takes a heavier load which as always the RPM's of my motor go down and my car has to work harder.At this point my car shakes TREMENDOUSLY and the first time i thought my car was about to stall out, my car is an automatic. This also happens when i stop at red lights, slow down near a dead stop somewhere, even when i put my car in park after driving it. Even with the A/C off. I don't know if it's the alternator but all i know is that this problem started happening after i put in my alternator.My car is currently being inspected for anything that could be wrong with the car other then the alternator, but i figure i should post this up for everyone
How long have you driven with the new alt? Try letting the car idle for 10 minutes, see if the computer corrects it.

At least 2 days. I did exactly that and nothing was correct. Was exactly the same as when it did it the first time.

Alright, so i have some news... I installed the alternator, was a bit troublesome like the first time to get it in but i did eventually get it in. Before turning on my car i had my dad check over it to make sure i installed it right and had a certified auto mechanic check it. Was in perfectly. Strangely enough, whenever i start my Honda accord everything is fine and turns on great. If i turn on my A/C my car takes a heavier load which as always the RPM's of my motor go down and my car has to work harder.At this point my car shakes TREMENDOUSLY and the first time i thought my car was about to stall out, my car is an automatic. This also happens when i stop at red lights, slow down near a dead stop somewhere, even when i put my car in park after driving it. Even with the A/C off. I don't know if it's the alternator but all i know is that this problem started happening after i put in my alternator.My car is currently being inspected for anything that could be wrong with the car other then the alternator, but i figure i should post this up for everyone
Sounds like you should at least do a tune up on it, things like plugs/wires.

What do you mean a tune up? On the engine? what do you think that would cost me to get that?

Burnt exhaust valve it sounds like at Tinman. Alt is working flawlessly. Thanks guys. Rests at 14.9. Old alt was like 14.4 bumping lowest I saw was 13.6 usually it's LOW 12s. Yesterday i was demoing alot and my Voltage was 12 flat lol. Once i see 11s i stop.

I'll keep this updated as time goes on.

Btw this is 2 saz 3500s strapped at .5 per amp. 4 XS 1200s and 1 5100... These batteries never had a good charging. For the months I've had them in they've just run off the stock alt... Since October. And trust me I've been beating on this system damn near everyday. That is all lol. DC POWA!!!

A burnt exhaust valve? I am not sure where that is located, but i can tell you i had my exhuast pipe and muffler custom installed 2.25 inches all the way from the motor. Not sure if that matters at all.

Update...

Today i guess the mechanic took it around to see if he could bog my engine down like i had explained to him how it did. He left it in his shop for 30-40 before someone needed to get an oil change. They pulled my car out and did the oil change for whoever. Another mechanic went to get my car and noticed smoke coming out of the trunk. Now mind you, this is where my extra battery is, fuses, and most importantly my amp is. My BRAND NEW AQX3500.1D amp is. Waiting to hear back from him. I am on my way to work and my dad will be updating me while i am there. I will update this when i get home. FML.

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Doesn't sound good, tuned in for details :popcorn:

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Burnt exhaust valve it sounds like at Tinman. Alt is working flawlessly. Thanks guys. Rests at 14.9. Old alt was like 14.4 bumping lowest I saw was 13.6 usually it's LOW 12s. Yesterday i was demoing alot and my Voltage was 12 flat lol. Once i see 11s i stop.

I'll keep this updated as time goes on.

Btw this is 2 saz 3500s strapped at .5 per amp. 4 XS 1200s and 1 5100... These batteries never had a good charging. For the months I've had them in they've just run off the stock alt... Since October. And trust me I've been beating on this system damn near everyday. That is all lol. DC POWA!!!

You should get an XS Power battery charger. Your alt isn't going to charge up depleted batteries.

It would suck to ruin a great alt and batteries.

I know I know but my batteries aren't dead or anything. I shoulda picked up the new charger during the group buy but didn't have money really. I'll be getting the hf1215 soon though. My batts rest at 12.8 though but I'll get the charger for me and my teammates to use.

Tinman I had a chipped exhaust valve that caused all types of problems for me. Get a leakdown test done.

Edited by Rainman215

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:peepwall: But I don't think this rough idling was happening before new alternator correct? Their have been tiny threads here and there on web that stuff like this happens when upgrading alternators.every car is different and can be a combination of things/sensors messed up but its always odd when before swap everything is cool :/

As for smoke in back always take in line fuses out or all your stuff when going to mechanic's... I don't trust them sorry.

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No one really understands how much power the XP series alternators take to really charge at idle... hence why the cases kept on SNAPPING from the stress of the alternator from how pissed off they are.

That's my 4 cylinder struggling as well. They are truly pissed off alternators. Also having your battery disconnected for a period of time will make the computer need to relearn it's idle A/F mixtures. My car while relearning almost stalls out for a while until it finally figures out what's going on... takes longer as well because the XPs throw the computer off and have to learn to compensate for the extra load it is. Because when your battery is disconnected it goes to factory default parameters.. but you just put a really mean alternator in there so it is still learning how to compensate for the extra torque required.

You wont kill this alternator by charging up batteries... we don't recommend it due to warranty reasons and whatnot. but honestly they don't fail because of the regulator being too smart.

So everyone, relax on the car having to work harder, do you really think massive power comes free? :)

Edit... im going to shoot a quick video of what the alternator does to my car when i turn on my stereo.. LOL.

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Okay,

So in this video, yes my voltage goes low, but im also running FOUR T2500-1bdCPs at full tilt... So voltage drop is expected on a 270 amp alternator.... nonetheless it's not bad at all for how much power I'm running.

I don't really consider 12.8 bad voltage.. at idle with this much power to be honest...

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Now do a video with the engine revved to see the difference of voltage. ;)

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