New amp for a w6 then going to 2 sa-12s

[davidg121 0]

Hey guys, buying a new amp soon, past two used sundown amp purchases fell through so im just gonna go with one of these.

My only question is which one of these would be better for what i am doing.

I will not have the sa-12s for about a month to 2 months. I would like to buy the amp now. I currently have a jl w6v2. Which amp would work better to do this?

i am leaning towards the 1200.1d because the sa-12s are rated for 600rms. I am planning to do as little electrical upgrades as possible also. But if it would be absolutely worth it i would do it for the 1700.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_23922_Hifonics_BRZ12001D.aspx

or

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_23923_Hifonics_BRZ17001D.aspx

[///M5 2,833]

Can we pick neither? What coils?

[davidg121 0]

Werent you the amp is an amp type of guy? But i am open to suggestions if its around the price range

Its up in the air on the sa-12 its whatever will work out best, havent ordered them yet pretty sure the w6 only comes in a d4.

Edited March 20, 2011 by davidg121

[davidg121 0]

Also, what about the aq1200?

[hdorre 1]

Also, what about the aq1200?

What about the 2200D for the SAs

[ssh 924]

Also, what about the aq1200?

What about the 2200D for the SAs

What part of "do as little electrical upgrades as possible" do you not understand?

[hdorre 1]

Also, what about the aq1200?

What about the 2200D for the SAs

What part of "do as little electrical upgrades as possible" do you not understand?

"But if it would be absolutely worth it i would do it for the 1700."

The AQ probably draws about the same current as the Hifonics because the BRZ is so damn inefficient. The only extra upgrade I would consider would be a small battery in the back (the big 3 was implied)

If you're going to criticize me, atleast make sure you make a legitimate point please.

Edited March 20, 2011 by Hunter

[ssh 924]

Also, what about the aq1200?

What about the 2200D for the SAs

What part of "do as little electrical upgrades as possible" do you not understand?

"But if it would be absolutely worth it i would do it for the 1700."

The AQ probably draws about the same current as the Hifonics because the BRZ is so damn inefficient. The only extra upgrade I would consider would be a small battery in the back (the big 3 was implied)

If you're going to criticize me, atleast make sure you make a legitimate point please.

AQ suggests an external 200amp fuse for the 2200d. The Hifonics BRZ1700.1D has 160amp fuse, and the Hifonics BRZ1200.1D has a 140amp fuse.

But hey, lets say the AQ is the most efficient amp in the world at 100%, so it only draws 150amps...

Stock alt on OPs vehicle (2007 altima) is ~110amps, so at idle maybe 50amps

After ecu and computer draw, lights, dash and cluster, ac, you got what 20amps excess at max? at idle, eh...

A small battery isn't going to do shit.

OP needs to use a lot less power.

[davidg121 0]

Stefan what do you suggest?

[ssh 924]

Stefan what do you suggest?

It's going to depend on what type of battery you decide to use, if your willing to even use one.

Also depends if you think you might upgrade your substage to a bigger, louder setup in the future. If so, get the amp with the power you'll use in the future and gain down for the time being.

Now if your going to install the sa12s in a few months, aren't going to be upgrading anytime soon, and just want an amp that powers the sa12s decently without having to do major electrical upgrades then I would do the following:

I would look for a used sae-1000d or sax-1200d, and get something like a xspower d1200. Both these amps will easily pull enough current to have bad voltage drop, but between the d1200 and possibly gaining down a little, you should be good.

I'm only suggesting the sundown amps because I've personally used them and haven't had any problems. Same goes for xs power batteries. Kinetiks or dekas would work too, not sure which model.

I don't have any experience with the hifonics and haven't heard anything great about them, so I'd stay away.

If you don't want to use any extra batteries then I would look for an amp that does around 500watts (fuse rating less then 50amps)

[hdorre 1]

AQ suggests an external 200amp fuse for the 2200d. The Hifonics BRZ1700.1D has 160amp fuse, and the Hifonics BRZ1200.1D has a 140amp fuse.

But hey, lets say the AQ is the most efficient amp in the world at 100%, so it only draws 150amps...

Stock alt on OPs vehicle (2007 altima) is ~110amps, so at idle maybe 50amps

After ecu and computer draw, lights, dash and cluster, ac, you got what 20amps excess at max? at idle, eh...

A small battery isn't going to do shit.

OP needs to use a lot less power.

Just because the AQ is RATED for a 200amp fuse doesn't mean it pulls 200amps with a clean signal.

I'm done arguing with you. Let's get this back on topic for the OP plz

[davidg121 0]

Well, adding an extra battery, how much would the strain the stock alt? I am thinking two sa-12's are the most im gonna put in this car.

Also what kind of wiring is involved with the spare battery

[mariobjones 5]

It would almost be a waste to get a big powerful amp because for one, your not gonna get the rated power, and two your gonna wind up killing your battery. I think everyone would agree with getting a second battery. It can be as little as a kinetik hc600, but that will hold your system. But be wise with your amp choice. As stefanhinote stated you will also have roughly 20 amps to run your entire audio setup.

[mariobjones 5]

Well, adding an extra battery, how much would the strain the stock alt? I am thinking two sa-12's are the most im gonna put in this car.

Also what kind of wiring is involved with the spare battery

You'd be fine, but in future it wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade alt. Look into the xs power or kinetik lower lines.

[ssh 924]

AQ suggests an external 200amp fuse for the 2200d. The Hifonics BRZ1700.1D has 160amp fuse, and the Hifonics BRZ1200.1D has a 140amp fuse.

But hey, lets say the AQ is the most efficient amp in the world at 100%, so it only draws 150amps...

Stock alt on OPs vehicle (2007 altima) is ~110amps, so at idle maybe 50amps

After ecu and computer draw, lights, dash and cluster, ac, you got what 20amps excess at max? at idle, eh...

A small battery isn't going to do shit.

OP needs to use a lot less power.

Just because the AQ is RATED for a 200amp fuse doesn't mean it pulls 200amps with a clean signal.

I'm done arguing with you. Let's get this back on topic for the OP plz

Your absolutely right, that's why I also said if the amp was 100% efficient (which it is not. lulz) that it would pull around 150amps at full tilt (which isn't anywhere near 24/7 either)

Point is, that amp would induce massive voltage drop on OP's stock electrical, and a big expensive battery would be needed to help alleviate the voltage drop.

[davidg121 0]

Okay, so lets say i will buy another battery for the trunk, and then go with the aq1200. How will i be looking.

Also how would i wire the battery.

[ssh 924]

Well, adding an extra battery, how much would the strain the stock alt? I am thinking two sa-12's are the most im gonna put in this car.

Also what kind of wiring is involved with the spare battery

I wouldn't worry about the extra battery straining the alt. Just give the battery a good charge before installing, and watch your voltage at full tilt (making sure it's not just sitting 12v draining the battery)

Wiring the extra battery is easy, run a strand of wire from positive stud on front battery to positive stud on rear battery (fuse the wire in case of short circuit), and run a strand of wire from negative stud on rear battery to chassis (grounded like you would an amp)

[ssh 924]

Okay, so lets say i will buy another battery for the trunk, and then go with the aq1200. How will i be looking.

Also how would i wire the battery.

I'd buy the biggest xs batt you can afford for the rear, set your gain on your aq1200, watch voltage at full tilt, if it's in the 12v-12.9v range with the car idling then I'd back the gain off until its in the 13v+ range.

[davidg121 0]

what gauge wire from battery to battery

[ssh 924]

what gauge wire from battery to battery

0/1 gauge. Welding wire would probably be cheapest, you can buy it from weldingwire.com (it's what I use and many others, all copper.)

[davidg121 0]

I am thinking this...

Buying the aq1200

Then hooking everything up.

How can i know if another battery is needed.

I have an hour drive to work one way. I never sit inside the car idling listening to music, red lights and small neighborhoods i do not blast it, and in traffic i do not blast it. Let me know.

[ssh 924]

I am thinking this...

Buying the aq1200

Then hooking everything up.

How can i know if another battery is needed.

I have an hour drive to work one way. I never sit inside the car idling listening to music, red lights and small neighborhoods i do not blast it, and in traffic i do not blast it. Let me know.

You can install the amp, set the gain by ear, play some bassy music at full tilt with the car running and put a dmm (digital multimeter) on the starting battery to get a voltage read out, or you can install a stinger lcd voltmeter in your dash or next to your amp.

If you decide to install a stinger voltmeter, remember you have to calibrate it. Calibration is easy, just need a dmm, and match voltages.

[///M5 2,833]

Werent you the amp is an amp type of guy? But i am open to suggestions if its around the price range

Its up in the air on the sa-12 its whatever will work out best, havent ordered them yet pretty sure the w6 only comes in a d4.

Indeed I am. Doesn't mean I'll buy a piece of crap. Real components are required for an amp to be worth a shit.

[davidg121 0]

Werent you the amp is an amp type of guy? But i am open to suggestions if its around the price range

Its up in the air on the sa-12 its whatever will work out best, havent ordered them yet pretty sure the w6 only comes in a d4.

Indeed I am. Doesn't mean I'll buy a piece of crap. Real components are required for an amp to be worth a shit.

Calm down there lol.I don't have a lot of experience in the realm of car audio. Which is why I go to people like yourself for input on what to get and what not to get. Thanks for the input

[///M5 2,833]

Werent you the amp is an amp type of guy? But i am open to suggestions if its around the price range

Its up in the air on the sa-12 its whatever will work out best, havent ordered them yet pretty sure the w6 only comes in a d4.

Indeed I am. Doesn't mean I'll buy a piece of crap. Real components are required for an amp to be worth a shit.

Calm down there lol.I don't have a lot of experience in the realm of car audio. Which is why I go to people like yourself for input on what to get and what not to get. Thanks for the input

I'm calm, expletives just strengthen my point. In your budget the ONLY thing I'd do is used.