Increasing voltage from Alternator

[ford302redneck 15]

I'm going to try this tomorrow. I will take pictures and report how I did it and if it worked well or not.

[ford302redneck 15]

So installed mine today.

Sorry, but no pictures. It was super hot today, and by the time I remembered, I already heat shrinked the wires and it was all covered up.

Outcome, worked extremely well. All I did was find the constant wire, cut it and put the diode in between. Soldered everything up and cranked my truck up and instant increase of voltage. The voltage at battery after the diode at idle was 14.8volts.

But the before and after I'm going by is the cheap plug into AUX outlet volt meter from Walmart.

Before:13.8volt, it would hit 14.0 cold with no big load rarely if I was reving up.

After:14.6 volts HOT at idle. Couldn't get it to move regardless of RPM.

Also, if I had AC on Blast and music up loud,(I have clamped around 400watts, but the amp blows 2:40amp fuses on command. This is when I need a DC Clamp meter, I only have a AC.), and lights on, voltage would instantly drop to 12.8, but after reving, back to 14-14.2volts. Even before, at idle with similar load, it would drop to the 12s. This is really need a DC clamp, I've been wanting/needing one for a while. Just don't want to shell out for a good one, when I don't have to have it.

I would of loved to clamp before and after the diode. To see if the alt is actually producing more current or not. I semi hope so, so it will Maybe charge my battery better. My resting voltage isn't the highest, even though their are two new batteries. With 1000CA, and still drops to 10.9 while starting, even in the summer.(I have a diesel, Glow plugs plug a good bit of current.) But regardless, I would assume with a semi hot motor and resting voltage in mid 12s, dropping to 10.9 and lower isn't normal.

But this seems like a cheap homemade way to increase voltage, and if you can, I suggest it. And report back with your results.

Edit. I would like to point out I idle around 500RPMs. Give or take, this is just going by the needle.

[chrishova 2]

Any '97- '03 Grand prix owners can buy one that raises it by .6 or for $4 more there's a stage 2 that raises it by 1.2 volts. I have the .6 on now, eh, I just ordered the stage 2. It's the same idea.

Will keep ya posted.

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=517&catid=107

[djjdnap 78]

for my alt it was the orange wire, not the yellow.

and yea at the highest i get 14.9 since ive fixed my vacuum leak, b4 that i was 15/15.1

but at ilde its down to 13-

thinking bout creating a purposely set vacuum leak to idele the car higher

[ford302redneck 15]

for my alt it was the orange wire, not the yellow.

and yea at the highest i get 14.9 since ive fixed my vacuum leak, b4 that i was 15/15.1

but at ilde its down to 13-

thinking bout creating a purposely set vacuum leak to idele the car higher

Mine was orange also.

Also, what type of car do you have? I don't see you would want to create a vacuum leak to raise RPM, I know which my mustang, I had a screw I could turn to adjust the idle. It adjusted the air coming in through a small hole in the throttle body.

[chrishova 2]

Any '97- '03 Grand prix owners can buy one that raises it by .6 or for $4 more there's a stage 2 that raises it by 1.2 volts. I have the .6 on now, eh, I just ordered the stage 2. It's the same idea.

Will keep ya posted.

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=517&catid=107

Sorry, the "step 1" that raises voltage by .6, for $17.99, and for $4 more there's the "step 2" wich raises voltage by 1.2

[ford302redneck 15]

That's kind of expensive, seeing as $2.49 gets you 4 diodes.

Unless you don't want to cut your wiring, but still, I'm sure you can buy the plugs and make it yourself cheaper than that.

[chrishova 2]

Yea, but it takes the guesswork out of the, what diode, what color, question.

[djjdnap 78]

lol, thats just lazy..imo

but i have a 98 lincoln navi..

yea i do have that screw, no idea how to twist it though.

Its like completely threaded and has locktite on it

[ford302redneck 15]

Its not a set screw for your throttle cable. Let me see if I can find a picture and point out what I'm talking about.

It will probably be tomorrow before I have a chance though.

[ford302redneck 15]

Basically the screw I'm talking about is for adjusting the TPS sensor, but depending on which Navi you have, it could vary on how to do this. Here's a link of a quick search I did, I'd try this first and see what your TPS voltage is. This could be a solution for your problem. I've done this on my 94 Mustang GT to fix the "hanging idle" problem, even though it didn't cure it. But it did help, my main problem was when I got the TPS voltage where it was suppose to be, the RPMs was to loW for my overwound cheap Alt that has little output, and my voltage would drop. So basically if I set it at 14volts, it would idle low, and drop to 12volts. And if I reset it at 12volts, it would idle high and having a hanging idle. It was a lose lose it seems. I gave up and just left it ilding low.

Link...

http://fordtruckworld.tenmagazines.com/ew/forums/Topic.asp?id=429510&pos=1

I'm not sure if that link is clickable, I'm on a phone and being lazy to figure out the correct way.

[djjdnap 78]

i know wherre the sensor is, gotta find that 8mm nut to twist

[MECHMAN 8]

These look similar?

http://www.mechmanhighoutputalternators.com/shop/products/Ford-Adjustable-Voltage-Boost-Module.html

Well where to start.....

This could be the right product for you, it varies by application. Ford used a variety of regulators, many will not allow for this style of voltage adjustment without internal modification or swapping to the correct regulator. This applies to 3G, 4G, 6G units. On some units you will be able to adjust the voltage in this fashion without modification, some you won't. Some models with the same regulator will use pins that others don't, completely altering the function of the adjustment module.

Our units (AS PICTURED) are built to work with specific applications, they are not universal and can require modification to the alternator in some applications to allow for external voltage adjustment. Some are PCM controlled and may still have the same style plug. In that case you can adjust it all you want and it will never work properly.

To properly build a product like this you must source the plugs, the wire, internal components and then make it all work properly together. Our units are designed to limit voltage to prevent spikes that can damage your PCM and other components, have you seen what 25+v can do to a PCM? By the time you buy all the parts, assemble it, dyno test it and fit it to the car you are spending all this time and money to make $20. Some units require custom made plugs, we have them built to our spec. So when you build this you will have a unit that works on SOME Ford 6G ONLY? Not a good business model. We sell these as an accessory, not as a profit center.

In the future I would appreciate if you had our permission before you used our pictures when discussing a design of your own. I'm all for you developing your own product, but develop YOUR OWN product, don't rip off our design. That can have some unpleasant ramifications. Not trying to be a jerk about this, just letting you know our take on this.

So the missing link audio is nothing but the same as described above and thy charge $100+ for them..

I think i need to start making my own and selling them.

Feel free to build your own and try to sell them, but make it your own design.

I recently had to take my mechman alt off because of a bracket issue. Lucky for me I kept my OE alt in case anything would happen. Some things I can throw out here is that before alts are put in I charge batteries, then with O scope at the battery I set the pot on mechman harness cold start 15.1v then after car warms up it will sit at 14.8 to 14.6v.

There would be irregular voltage drops from there to 13.8 and then bounce right back up. With the OE alt in it cold starts at 14.4 car warms up and sits at 14.1v I don't know my car but I think that the computer is what adjusts the voltage and with the mechman pot there seems to be a bumping of heads. So to add to this thread your idea might be right but the computer might be regulating the voltage still.

If you have a PCM controlled unit OR the improper regulator OR it is not set properly you can have these same problems. That would be when you give me an email or call.

^^^ maybe a *bit different because it serves the same purpose correct?

the difference is what? they build it in to a wiring harness for you to fit to ur alt so u dont have to splice any wires.....

I mean if ur just tricking ur alt to bump up the voltage seems like the same thing to me..

-----------

crunkjuice.

yea some cars are pcm controlled, meaning the cars computer controls the voltage, usualy newer cars.

my girls grand prix has pcm controlled alt and the voltage is all over the place, sometimes 13v sometimes 15v... she doesnt have any amps or anything

the only thing that pulls the most amps i can see is the traction control, slam on the gas and it cuts on and voltage drops to 12v easily.

It's not the same thing, there's more to it than just adding a resistance.

well decided im going to put a switch on it like the link suggest to get my amp to act right.

"doesnt like 15v"

i had the diode in for bought a month havent had any batt problems, wt these hotter temps it shouldnt charge that high anyway.

What happens when the temp cools? Voltage goes up. Then what happens?

That's kind of expensive, seeing as $2.49 gets you 4 diodes.

Unless you don't want to cut your wiring, but still, I'm sure you can buy the plugs and make it yourself cheaper than that.

This is a cheap alternative, do this at your own risk.

Adjusting the throttle plate on your Ford vehicles will not correct charging issues. It will cause excessively high idle, surging and other problems because the computer is trying to compensate for the extra air being let in when the throttle plate should be closed. It's best to let the IAC do it's job and set up the charging system properly.

[djjdnap 78]

lol dont take offense jeez im a big DIY guy the making products myself was all in humor. I dont have time for that.

1.the voltage isn't going to go past 15.1v, since the voltage drop is only .6-.7v

2. Yes the pcm controlled alts are different, not my problem

3.If you would have read correctly its adjusting your TPS sensor, there is no way to adjust a IAC in the first place.

The optimim setting is .99 by loosening the 2 screws you can pivot the sensor ever so slightly. The object is to NOT exceed .99 although it usually comes from the factory way over that like 1.3 or under at .891 once you get it as close to .99 as you can the better the idle and response

--------------------------------------------

Try to get just below .99 It is all about idle smoothness and throttle response. NOT hp. Now that you've done it once it will be a snap to go out and get it below .99 say .989 or so. Some people have had to elongate the holes a hair to get it since Ford doesn't take the time to dial it in. This will really smoth out the idle issues many have and since the computer knows the exact location and position of the throttle blade the response is really noticable. So many people think it is BS or expect a major deal, but it's the little things that pay off. All it takes is a little time.

i can take the pic down, your product wasnt the basis of this thread when it first started, but my opinion got intertwined somewhere along the way.

so like i said dont take any offense, most ppl are too lazy to go out and figure things like this out anyway and would rather be able to plug and go about there business.

[djjdnap 78]

on another note this mod would work with any alternator that has a sensing wire.

alternators are not that complex as ppl make them out to be

[MECHMAN 8]

lol dont take offense jeez im a big DIY guy the making products myself was all in humor. I dont have time for that.

i can take the pic down, your product wasnt the basis of this thread when it first started, but my opinion got intertwined somewhere along the way.

so like i said dont take any offense, most ppl are too lazy to go out and figure things like this out anyway and would rather be able to plug and go about there business.

Thinking on your own is great, building your own product is great, go ahead and design your own. When our design is shown here as an example what are we going to think? Looks like someone is taking our hard work and trying to make money off of it. I already explained the cost involved so feel free to design your own, and when you do I wish you the best, but make it your own design.

As for your ideas so far you are on the right track but be sure to add a protect so you don't overcharge when the temp drops. That can be bad.

Leave the picture up, but at least get the name right.

Yes, most are too lazy to do it themselves, and some just don't have the time, the rest just want to plug in a proven, reliable, tested product and not worry about it.

on another note this mod would work with any alternator that has a sensing wire.

alternators are not that complex as ppl make them out to be

This mod WILL NOT work with any alternator with a sensing wire. It may work on your 6G but have you tried it on a 4G? Do you know which units have power going to the connector on the sense wire but sense voltage internally? You see the voltage on the meter but the alternator is looking somewhere else for that voltage. Regulators changed even within the same model, 4G and 6G have a few different regulators with different pin-outs and function.

I am always available to help with technical questions about charging systems, there is a lot of misinformation being spread, so feel free to ask. I won't give specifics, that's how we make a living, but I can always help point in the right direction.

Eric@mechman.

Edited June 23, 2011 by MECHMAN

[BanginGMC 23]

Eric,

Did you make a username and join the forum just for this reason?

[MECHMAN 8]

Eric,

Did you make a username and join the forum just for this reason?

No, far too busy for that, the phone is ringing all the time and there are tons of emails every day. Mark is setting up our section and we will be fully here on SSA in another day or so. He invited us here a while back and I now have the time to get to this forum.

It looks like a good forum so far, there is good information in here and the membership is growing. We are still active on the other sites and that's not going to change, but we were invited here so here we are.

[AirLFTN 7]

Eric,

Did you make a username and join the forum just for this reason?

No, far too busy for that, the phone is ringing all the time and there are tons of emails every day. Mark is setting up our section and we will be fully here on SSA in another day or so. He invited us here a while back and I now have the time to get to this forum.

It looks like a good forum so far, there is good information in here and the membership is growing. We are still active on the other sites and that's not going to change, but we were invited here so here we are.

Great to have you here!

[Robert 9]

Glad to see you Eric Nothing wrong with knowledgeable advice. I did call Matt before you actively started helping forum wise. He told me everything was fine but honestly I adjusted the POT down to 14.9v cold start at night and when I received the bracket I squeezed in the belt I called you for and things have been great since.

Welcome to SSA Eric

[CrownVic 15]

Well my car used a ford 6g alt as well, and I enjoy soldering so im going to try this when I get the chance. What kind of diode did you use? Did it help you voltage out at all with your system up?

[MECHMAN 8]

Great to have you here!

Hi Mark. We will be taking care of the rest of this deal we have going tomorrow. Got to get the Jeep done today!

Glad to see you Eric Nothing wrong with knowledgeable advice. I did call Matt before you actively started helping forum wise. He told me everything was fine but honestly I adjusted the POT down to 14.9v cold start at night and when I received the bracket I squeezed in the belt I called you for and things have been great since.

Welcome to SSA Eric

Glad we could help. Just a little belt slip can cause problems, makes it impossible to have stable voltage.

If this mod works properly on 6G units then go for it, but make sure you have a voltmeter in the car so you know what it does cold, hot, driving, and under high load. I would hate to see someone smoke their alternator or battery or worse, their PCM by overcharging.

Glad to be here, looking forward to getting to know you all better.

[chrishova 2]

60 seconds, plugged in the harness, 14.9 volts. Worth the $22!

[djjdnap 78]

4g and 6g alts look the same to me

and CrownVic

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062591

these were the diodes i used.

[MECHMAN 8]

That's up to you to determine, but that "Sensing and switching circuits" section is the one to look at, the problem is in there on many of the 4G. While they look the same on paper the circuitry is not the same in the regulator. Also, don't forget that there are several regulators available.

Which Crown Vic? My 03 isn't like that at all.