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RF amp gets really hot?

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yea it has thermal protection and its never went on so maybe these amps just get hot i mean the middle doesnt get hot but the heatsink will get very toasty, well i was told on here before that if i got a h/u with 4v preouts then i wont have to turn my gain up so much which will be less stress on my amp

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good.

And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad.

This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades.

What he said, what's "proper electrical upgrades?" And by never gets hot, you mean even the heatsink isn't hot? I find that a lil hard to believe. Also, he said his amp has a 150 amp fuse, while yours is a new "constant power" series and shouldn't have a fuse on it? (Not tryin to be all lawyer-type but I'm sorta thinking he has an older power series amp, unless I either read what he posted wrong or they hide the fuses on those new power amps.)

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yea it has thermal protection and its never went on so maybe these amps just get hot i mean the middle doesnt get hot but the heatsink will get very toasty, well i was told on here before that if i got a h/u with 4v preouts then i wont have to turn my gain up so much which will be less stress on my amp

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good.

And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad.

This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades.

What he said, what's "proper electrical upgrades?" And by never gets hot, you mean even the heatsink isn't hot? I find that a lil hard to believe. Also, he said his amp has a 150 amp fuse, while yours is a new "constant power" series and shouldn't have a fuse on it? (Not tryin to be all lawyer-type but I'm sorta thinking he has an older power series amp, unless I either read what he posted wrong or they hide the fuses on those new power amps.)

with low voltage my saz1500d was very hot. After installing a dc power alt, my saz1500d was cool to the touch. Not hard to believe.

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amps get hot when you drive the for awhile... as long as it doesnt go into thermal protection you should be good.. heat sinks do what they're supposed to do.. dissipate heat from the components. If your electrical is indeed enough i would suggest a 12v crossflow fan, hook it up to a relay so when the amp turns on the fan turns on, maybe one or two would be perfect. something like this would be a cheap fix Cross flow fan

:peepwall:

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with low voltage my saz1500d was very hot. After installing a dc power alt, my saz1500d was cool to the touch. Not hard to believe.

Disregard the part about having different amps. I'm a dummy.

Well he said the amp was cool in 100 degree+ Arizona weather. I've been to Bullhead City for the summer and that shit is NO JOKE. And I live in Texas normally lol. I just find it hard to believe that the Heatsink on an amp is cool if the amp is running and it's 105 outside. I understand the low voltage thing, I still think that's what his problem is, but if the center of the amp is cool and the heatsink in the only hot part then...that sounds ok to me lol.

Edited by An-i-no

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I was simply stating my case, just an example.

And I live in Tucson az, about 120miles or so south of phx, it gets hot. Just getting in the car, everything is hot, including amp heatsink. But after driving around with AC on and my amp at full tilt for 45 minutes, it's barely warm. (cooler then ambient)

And with cooler weather and regular listening it's cool to the touch.

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I was simply stating my case, just an example.

And I live in Tucson az, about 120miles or so south of phx, it gets hot. Just getting in the car, everything is hot, including amp heatsink. But after driving around with AC on and my amp at full tilt for 45 minutes, it's barely warm. (cooler then ambient)

And with cooler weather and regular listening it's cool to the touch.

Fair enough.

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yea it has thermal protection and its never went on so maybe these amps just get hot i mean the middle doesnt get hot but the heatsink will get very toasty, well i was told on here before that if i got a h/u with 4v preouts then i wont have to turn my gain up so much which will be less stress on my amp

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good.

And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad.

This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades.

What he said, what's "proper electrical upgrades?" And by never gets hot, you mean even the heatsink isn't hot? I find that a lil hard to believe. Also, he said his amp has a 150 amp fuse, while yours is a new "constant power" series and shouldn't have a fuse on it? (Not tryin to be all lawyer-type but I'm sorta thinking he has an older power series amp, unless I either read what he posted wrong or they hide the fuses on those new power amps.)

with low voltage my saz1500d was very hot. After installing a dc power alt, my saz1500d was cool to the touch. Not hard to believe.

What's low voltage?

Below 12 volts? Below 11volts?

I ran a 1500d between 12-14.5 volts, and mine always ran "warm" after any real long length of time(10 mins or more of hard playing).

I don't see how going from 12 volts to 14volts is going to change the temptature. If anything, I would think it would get hotter because its putting out more power?

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yea it has thermal protection and its never went on so maybe these amps just get hot i mean the middle doesnt get hot but the heatsink will get very toasty, well i was told on here before that if i got a h/u with 4v preouts then i wont have to turn my gain up so much which will be less stress on my amp

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good.

And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad.

This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades.

What he said, what's "proper electrical upgrades?" And by never gets hot, you mean even the heatsink isn't hot? I find that a lil hard to believe. Also, he said his amp has a 150 amp fuse, while yours is a new "constant power" series and shouldn't have a fuse on it? (Not tryin to be all lawyer-type but I'm sorta thinking he has an older power series amp, unless I either read what he posted wrong or they hide the fuses on those new power amps.)

with low voltage my saz1500d was very hot. After installing a dc power alt, my saz1500d was cool to the touch. Not hard to believe.

What's low voltage?

Below 12 volts? Below 11volts?

I ran a 1500d between 12-14.5 volts, and mine always ran "warm" after any real long length of time(10 mins or more of hard playing).

I don't see how going from 12 volts to 14volts is going to change the temptature. If anything, I would think it would get hotter because its putting out more power?

Nope

When voltage drops more amps have to be pulled to produce the same amount of power at the same volume.

lets just say you're producing 1500 watts at optimal levels.. at 14 volts you would only need 107A to produce the 1500 watts, but to produce the same 1500 watts at 12v you would need 125A.. You create more heat by pulling more amperage.

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i have 4g power wire going to battery 4g ground wire to frame, 2 fuses? i have one inline by battery and then my amp has a 150a fuse built into it if thats what you mean? if i get the big3 upgrade would that make my amp not get so hot? does it make that big of a difference cuz this thing gets really hot like after 30-45 minutes ill let my amp cool down cuz im kinda afraid to keep playing it with it getting that hot

the new rockford amps dont have internal fuses you have to external fuse them yourself..

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yea it has thermal protection and its never went on so maybe these amps just get hot i mean the middle doesnt get hot but the heatsink will get very toasty, well i was told on here before that if i got a h/u with 4v preouts then i wont have to turn my gain up so much which will be less stress on my amp

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good.

And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad.

This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades.

What he said, what's "proper electrical upgrades?" And by never gets hot, you mean even the heatsink isn't hot? I find that a lil hard to believe. Also, he said his amp has a 150 amp fuse, while yours is a new "constant power" series and shouldn't have a fuse on it? (Not tryin to be all lawyer-type but I'm sorta thinking he has an older power series amp, unless I either read what he posted wrong or they hide the fuses on those new power amps.)

with low voltage my saz1500d was very hot. After installing a dc power alt, my saz1500d was cool to the touch. Not hard to believe.

What's low voltage?

Below 12 volts? Below 11volts?

I ran a 1500d between 12-14.5 volts, and mine always ran "warm" after any real long length of time(10 mins or more of hard playing).

I don't see how going from 12 volts to 14volts is going to change the temptature. If anything, I would think it would get hotter because its putting out more power?

Nope

When voltage drops more amps have to be pulled to produce the same amount of power at the same volume.

lets just say you're producing 1500 watts at optimal levels.. at 14 volts you would only need 107A to produce the 1500 watts, but to produce the same 1500 watts at 12v you would need 125A.. You create more heat by pulling more amperage.

This ^

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Yep yep. Pretty much summed up

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i have 4g power wire going to battery 4g ground wire to frame, 2 fuses? i have one inline by battery and then my amp has a 150a fuse built into it if thats what you mean? if i get the big3 upgrade would that make my amp not get so hot? does it make that big of a difference cuz this thing gets really hot like after 30-45 minutes ill let my amp cool down cuz im kinda afraid to keep playing it with it getting that hot

the new rockford amps dont have internal fuses you have to external fuse them yourself..

This...I'm confuzzled. I don't think his amp is fused. I have no idea if that could make it run hot but idk.

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I have run a sundown 100.4 and a aq2200 at the same time and the sundown runs much hotter than the sub amp.

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I have run a sundown 100.4 and a aq2200 at the same time and the sundown runs much hotter than the sub amp.

There is a difference in amplifier class there also. AB vs D

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Class A/B is much less inefficient than Class D, hence the temperature difference

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Class A/B is much less inefficient than Class D, hence the temperature difference

Less inefficient?

:lol2:

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The T1000-1 I have gets warm never hot though. The T400-4 I have is on the same heat sink and it gets hot however it is a class a/b and is under a seat so it's to be expected. My electrical consists of a DC 270amp alt and an xs power d2400.

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yea it has thermal protection and its never went on so maybe these amps just get hot i mean the middle doesnt get hot but the heatsink will get very toasty, well i was told on here before that if i got a h/u with 4v preouts then i wont have to turn my gain up so much which will be less stress on my amp

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good.

And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad.

This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades.

What he said, what's "proper electrical upgrades?" And by never gets hot, you mean even the heatsink isn't hot? I find that a lil hard to believe. Also, he said his amp has a 150 amp fuse, while yours is a new "constant power" series and shouldn't have a fuse on it? (Not tryin to be all lawyer-type but I'm sorta thinking he has an older power series amp, unless I either read what he posted wrong or they hide the fuses on those new power amps.)

with low voltage my saz1500d was very hot. After installing a dc power alt, my saz1500d was cool to the touch. Not hard to believe.

What's low voltage?

Below 12 volts? Below 11volts?

I ran a 1500d between 12-14.5 volts, and mine always ran "warm" after any real long length of time(10 mins or more of hard playing).

I don't see how going from 12 volts to 14volts is going to change the temptature. If anything, I would think it would get hotter because its putting out more power?

Nope

When voltage drops more amps have to be pulled to produce the same amount of power at the same volume.

lets just say you're producing 1500 watts at optimal levels.. at 14 volts you would only need 107A to produce the 1500 watts, but to produce the same 1500 watts at 12v you would need 125A.. You create more heat by pulling more amperage.

I know this, but doesn't having less input voltage just decrease your output voltage and in return producing less power. What your saying, amps put out the same power at 12 volts as they do at 14?

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When voltage drops more amps have to be pulled to produce the same amount of power at the same volume.

lets just say you're producing 1500 watts at optimal levels.. at 14 volts you would only need 107A to produce the 1500 watts, but to produce the same 1500 watts at 12v you would need 125A.. You create more heat by pulling more amperage.

This is true. BUT, wouldnt this only apply to an amp with a regulated power supply?

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ok so nobody ever answer the question about using a dmm to tune my gain. IM getting a new jvc kd-r900 h/u with 5v preouts and was wondering what numbers i need to be looking for on my dmm to put my gain at. i want it to be perfect so i dont have to worry about it being too much or not enough cuz i really dont know the max output of my fi bl yet. so what numbers should the dmm be at for it to be set right. im giving my bl about 1300-1400 watts at a 2 ohm load to the amp

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