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mxboy77

dual 2 to 1

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hey guys, i ordered a btl 15 fully loaded and now im deciding my amp. I was wondering if it is safe to run the dual 2 ohm sub down too 1 ohm so i could just get a audioque 2200 or do i need to run it at 2 ohms and get a audioque 3500?

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If you ordered a dual 2, you cannot run it at 2ohm. Only 1 ohm or 4ohm.

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okay so its completely safe to run it at 1 ohm , my sub wont burn out if the amp is set rite?

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okay so its completely safe to run it at 1 ohm , my sub wont burn out if the amp is set rite?

No, sub won't burn up as long as you are smart with it.

Subs and amps are stupid, they do what they are told. So if you tell it to clip, it will, and it will blow it.

What's your electrical?

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okay thanks. whats your opinion on the aq2200d?

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Very strong amp. I recommend AQ all the time.

What modifications have been made to your electrical system?

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big three and i will be getting a kinetic battery to put in the back

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If you ordered a dual 2, you cannot run it at 2ohm. Only 1 ohm or 4ohm.

So are you saying its ok to run a dual 2 Fi BL15 off of a hifonics BRZ1700 monoblocc amp as long as im ruuning at 1 ohm or do i have to find a 2 ch. amp to run a dual 2 subwoofer?

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You can clip all day and not blow the sub. That has nothing to do with it.

That being said, you will be able to both thermally and mechanically blow that sub with an AQ2200 (or any amp that will do an honest 2KW) if you try hard enough.

Again this has nothing at all to do with gain settings or clipping, you just need to remember that you will have enough power to ruin that sub....

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If you ordered a dual 2, you cannot run it at 2ohm. Only 1 ohm or 4ohm.

So are you saying its ok to run a dual 2 Fi BL15 off of a hifonics BRZ1700 monoblocc amp as long as im ruuning at 1 ohm or do i have to find a 2 ch. amp to run a dual 2 subwoofer?

you can run a dual 2 ohm fi bl off that amp at one ohm but you have to set the gain on the amp correctly not to over power or blow the sub.

2 ch amps are not really design for subwoofer and really does not have anything to do with how you wire up your sub for final load..

hope this helps..

Edited by StreetLegal

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^^ Nobody is thread jacking. OP had a lot of questions.

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If you have the new BL it's rated at 1500 rms so I don't think the extra 200 watts is going to affect the sub.

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I once ran a BL on 1700 watts daily. no probelm. juat have to set the gains and subsonic filter up right and have sufficient power so you wont clip :fing34:

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If you have the new BL it's rated at 1500 rms so I don't think the extra 200 watts is going to affect the sub.

That is why there is a gain knob. Set it right and you will have no problems. Set it wrong bye bye sub.

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Clipping won't hurt anything, and your gain knob will not prevent you from putting out max power. This is ahuge missconception and gets more people in trouble than helps.

Bottom line is, you can get full power out of any amplifier (up to and into full clipping) with just about any H/U with the gain at any setting. Additionally, too much continuos power kills a driver. It doesn't matter what the waveform.

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Of course it does. Vs. a non-clipped identical signal of same voltage amplitude. But this has nothing to do with blowing a driver.

Let me put it this way, if you have a driver rated at X wattage, any more than X will blow it (thermally). That is it.

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I thought a clipped signal had more average power?

Above my post 95Honda explains it simply.

You can also think of it like this:

Driver XXX rated for 100watts.

clean signal: 50watts.

clipped signal of the above (I don't remember if clipped signal is 30% more power?), so lets say now your clipped signal is 50 + 50*0.30 = 65watts

65watts is still well under the thermal rating of 100watts.

So yes the signal is clipped, but it's not destroying the driver.

Of course this is broad, and 95Honada's response covers everything, but I believe this example answers your thought.

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