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CarlSA8

Need my SA8's to beat a pair of 10's

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Well that should save you a bundle. Are you keeping in mind that you're probably going to need 2-3 good batteries and possibly a ho alternator to have enough juice to maintain good voltage? Will you be using another amplifier for your mids/highs? Also, by "For the bass alone, I'd like to not exceed $1000 I guess" did you mean subs and amp only?

Yeah I meant subs and amp. I've got a cadence 100x4 for the highs. Will I really need more than one deep cell for just that mono block?

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(2) SA 10s ported off a SAZ2500D and make him squeal like a pig! Of course box design is gonna be key as well as electrical.

... A challenger appears.. lol this guys is wayyy over his head wrapped up in dc. Nothing against them, but still.. maybe that isn't a bad idea to just claim that 10's title

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Spend 50 bucks n build a fart box.

He said in his first post he wants to hit 144 db+ at 29 hertz or lower..

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Ok the sa-8's will cost u $135 each so thats $540 for the subs and you said a audiopipe amp i don't recommend those amps (heard some bad reviews)

i say go with a SPL GORILLA 5500 amp from amazon $245.95 and it will put out more power and the go with some good 0 gauge Knukoncepts is what i recommend

and a XS power batt the D975 will give you enough backing and a mechman alt maybe the 270a high output alt ( link http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/270a-High-Output-Alternator-Altima.html )

and the enclosure should be a regular ported tuned to 32 hertz or below around 3.5 cubes and i can design it for you if you would like and that should set you to be around $ 1,614.97 and some other misc stuff here and there the main thing that is the most money is the alt so there you go hit me up in a pm if you want that box design.

backyardbass97

heres the link for the wire ( http://www.knukonceptz.com/StoreCart.cfm?AddprodID=KCA0R )

Edited by backyardbass97

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Thanks for the in depth reply. As for audiopipe, I have a 1000x1 @1 ohm currently that was set to a 2 ohm load on a single 15" old school re 15 and it absolutely dominated for what it was on so little. I will look at that gorilla amp though as I'm open to suggestions. I have an awesome guy in town that can rebuild my alt for high as I want and spare the aftermarket pricing. As for box designs, i will pm you later.

On another note, i half expected some serious hazing with all this coming from a newb here and you guys deliver, so a sincere thank you. I'm not a 16 year old kid with big dreams. im in my early 30's and this is far from my first system. Just first spl.

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What is he tuned to that he peaks that low?

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Good luck getting the sa8s that low at a score over 144 and them staying in one piece. I competed all year with them.

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I really think you should reset your goals or at least consider different equipment.

I wouldn't spend my hard earned money on the gorilla amp either, no personal experience with them but it looks like chinese crap.

Not saying that your goals aren't possible, but hitting the numbers you want is going to require a lot of work. A lot of testing and changing and retesting, and probably a few blown drivers.

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I am just having a hard time seeing 8's burping that low without damage... I Love 8" subs don't get me wrong, but you are facing some major disadvantages, and I've got experience doing street A trunk (old street A)...

That being said, it isn't impossible... A well designed and built box, something that would prevent the subs from unloading while maintaining maximum output....

One thing that really hurts you is that being a trunk car, you're cars resonant frequency will likely be in the 48-60hz range... Meaning you won't gain any easy output that route.

If it were me, I'd do the 8's and maybe a 4" aero-port all firing Forwayd, Port on drivers side would be where I would start.

SPL is a funny game though, it requires a lot of testing and changing before you ever get a set up that really puts up numbers, and there is always room for improvement.

Aeroport calculator can be found here=

http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html

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Alright then.. if were to do a pair of tens then. Sure the car frequency isn't in my favor in comparison, but hell now I'm just thrown off. What subs would you recommend? I'd rather not spend over a grand for a pair of nightshades.

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Looking for pure spl, not worried about the musicality of them?

I've been out of the game for a couple years, but I'd look for something efficient, with a decent xmax and the thermal capacity to handle ~1200 watts rms...

10" Icon dual 1 ohm coils for a final impedance of 1 ohm... on that amp should be a good start. I've always wanted to play with Icon's, they are built well.

I will have to let some of the other members with more experience guide you in the box design, I wish I had more time and still had all of my notes from street A, i'd be able to help you more expediently.

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Although Jacob and his Nightshades are pure sex :D

Oh yea, Hi Jacob :morepower1:

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Alright then.. if were to do a pair of tens then. Sure the car frequency isn't in my favor in comparison, but hell now I'm just thrown off. What subs would you recommend? I'd rather not spend over a grand for a pair of nightshades.

Now you are getting on the right track. I think if you used a single woofer thats proofen maybe a btl nightshade or DD whatever tickles your fancy you could take him with a single 12"

Then you can brag to him that you did it with less cone area and just one driver.

Sealed sub forward port forward.

What class will you both be competing in? If you have time a 4th order BP might work. but if you are serious about numbers you will have to give up the lows unless you have a whole bunch of big drivers which in a trunk is unrealistic. If all else fails just build a wall with two 18"

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Haha if I was able to do a wall, I'd do a 21 and just brag about my lows ;) but I do have a couple kids and if my dd breaks down I would have to throw the back seat in there and leave the bass off.

I thought about a single aq hdc4 12" for that purpose.. I guess its just something to be said about doing the same size and number of subs, but better. I'm honestly not sure about class, as I'm not familiar with how that's set up. Just want to beat his ass in numbers. :)

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Unless there's some miracle of using a single 10" nightshade to beat his pair.. that I would be very game for.

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Unless there's some miracle of using a single 10" nightshade to beat his pair.. that I would be very game for.

These guys can build you a 10"

It wont be reliable but you can beat him with pure power

http://www.t3audio.com/core.mdv/TSNS.html

10 is not listed but I have seen it. Search for kryptonitewhite or something like that.

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Unless there's some miracle of using a single 10" nightshade to beat his pair.. that I would be very game for.

These guys can build you a 10"

It wont be reliable but you can beat him with pure power

http://www.t3audio.com/core.mdv/TSNS.html

10 is not listed but I have seen it. Search for kryptonitewhite or something like that.

That's insanity. I can only imagine the price tag on one.

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What metering style? Metering style will determine what you should decide.

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(2) SA 10s Dual 2ohm $390(new) or $280(Bstock), (1)SAZ1500D used $300 (roughly) leaving you at a minimum $300 for box if your budget of $1000 is just for subs/amp/box. I would try 3cuft (after all displacement) tuned at 35Hz with (2) 4" Aero Ports 16.5" in length each, if you use duct (not duck) tape on the ports you can buy some generic PvC pipe and experiment with lengths. I have never been one of those who thinks you need a TON or a HUGE setup to do good numbers. My current car is a pretty good example of that with 2 SA 12s and a 1500d at 1ohm nominal doing a 144.2 before my subs were completely broken in at 46Hz. I personally think with what I have suggested you CAN beat his score it will just take some time and experimentation.

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I have a Nightshade 10 for sale. Pm if interested. I had 2 in my truck and did a 149 @ 38hz.

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