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Vieceli

BTL N212 advise,

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The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked IMHO. It is true though that it does get pretty annoying when people ask a lot of This VS. That questions and the same question that keeps coming up over and over and over again like you mentioned Jake. On the same note though, everyone here was at one time a beginner. Asking the same types of questions themselves before getting experienced and learning the craft for themselves. It's just part of the learning, growing and developing we all do. I know I did, not even all that relatively long ago.

The only thing that is discouraged is asking questions about things that could obviously be answered by doing a little searching. We want people to learn, but they'll likely learn much more if they put in the effort to learn themselves as apposed to simply asking the question and getting quick answers back. Plus it can help boost a persons confidence to learn/figure it out on their own as well.

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When I first started this hobby I messed some equipment up...good thing it was only 1 volfenhag subwoofer, but I learned from that point that if there was something I was unsure about or didn't know in detail everything I was doing, I would come to forums or ask someone more knowledgeable. I would hate for you to have your first equipment you mess up being 800$ worth of subs and probably an amp worth close to 800you as well. This setup requires no mistakes with wiring gauge type, electrical capacity, clean connections, gain setting, box specs, your own listening, and check and double check skills with a dmm. You might want to have someone put it in for you and tell you the supplies you need because to even make this system operational you're going to need an excessive deep cycle battery, proper gauge wire, big 3, and proper placement of fuses.

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RX -2500

What is this? Do you have a link?

Alton speaks wise words. It appears you've already purchased the BL's. Don't be too discouraged; my first car audio set-up that i had any involvement with was a BTL on a SAZ-3000d. Be really careful. Read alot. People around here sometime discourage from "stupid" questions. Don't let that get to you. We can just get sick of them when 4 different people ask the same question in one week.

You said you were getting a box built? By whom if you don't mind me asking?

I mean RE audio, reaudio.com. The guy building my box is someone who owns a car audio store. The 2 bls are ordered. Doing all the electrical upgrades, battery etc..

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roadkill expert bulk pack for the trunk

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In your case, I would get two BL's as opposed to one BTL. With that budget however, it is likely that you won't be able to provide the full RMS to either two BL's or one BTL. But that is okay. They do not need full RMS to be happy or to perform well.

Running 3000 watts is going to require significant electrical upgrades which would probably put you over budget. You could buy a large amplifier now and simply run it with the gains tuned down and then upgrade your electrical when you have the funds. It's a tricky game of whether or not its worth the money to run that extra 1500 watts or so. Some think it is. Many think it isn't. Something you will have to decide for yourself.

If you do not like the idea of upgrading more in the future and have no intention of pouring more money into this, I would have personally suggested to still run the BL's at only half RMS. But it would be ignorant to ignore Nick's word. Thus, if you don't plan on upgrading your electrical system in the future at all, I would take Nick's suggestion into high consideration and order SSD's instead.

But, if it was me, I would plan on upgrading my electrical in the future.

So to get a run down:

1) I would order how ever many BL's opted me the most cone area that would actually fit in my vehicle. ( ONE 12" < ONE 15" < TWO 12"s < ONE 18" < THREE 12's < TWO 15's ) Lets say you get two 12''s ~ $700 shipped with the options, maybe less.

2) I would order somewhere near a 3000 watt amplifier. I would look used or refurbished. Db-r is a company that refurbishes Sundown Audio amplifiers and is where I purchased my amplifier. Unfortunately, right now the largest they have is a 1500 watt. Which would still make you more than happy, but it doesn't sound like you entirely like that idea. Which can be justified; you'll always wonder "what if I had more?" I would wait till I found either a SAZ-2000, SAZ-2500, or a SAZ-3000 used. If that wasn't happening soon enough, I would start looking into AudioQue. Lots of people here run their amplifiers with no problems at all. Companies that have a strong reputation for amplifiers: MTX Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Sundown Audio, Crescendo Audio (fairly new, but still has gotten good reviews), Incriminator Audio, US Amps. Some companies that are known to be good value: AudioQue & Audiopipe. I would personally rather run an AudioQue as I have heard more good things about them. But I would also perfer to run any of the earlier listed amps to either of those. That's just personal opinion from the things I've heard. 99% of the time an amplifier failure is the users fault. This really shouldn't cost much more than $500. You could shave off a couple hundred by buying a used AudioQue and if you're really keen on your budget, that might be a good idea.

3) Head Unit. The big three is always a safe bet. Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer. This one is on you. Try to find a store or a buddy that has a deck or two you can check out. Use them in the store. See how you like them and buy the one that best fits into your budget. ~$200?

4) Wiring. Just get some wire of the correct gauge. There are plenty of threads comparing wiring on here. Welding Cable for power and ground wire. Monoprice.com for RCA's. ~80? maybe $100

5) Speakers. That's a whole other jar of worms. This is so much of personal preference and how much effort you are willing to put into the install. Mostly the second half of that sentence. For example, for my front doors I have some speakers that are in the middle of the price range I would say. I spent the time to seal my doors and deaden them. Took extra cash and a lot, a lot of extra time. But I didn't do anything to the back doors because i have $25 used Rockford Fosgate Type R components in them. It wouldn't make since for me to stick $200 speakers back there if I'm not going to spend the time to do the bare minimum (deaden and seal) to make the doors acoustically well.

6) Extra battery. If you have the money now, do it. If not, watch your voltage and adjust the gain on the amplifier accordingly.

7) Miscellaneous. Includes anything else. The wood to build the box for example. If you have the tools, or access to the tools, to build a box you can save money by doing it yourself. It's not as hard as it seems.

So without Speakers and a Battery that puts you at $1500. Those are rough price estimates but let you know what ballpark you are in.

I know the post is long, but if you aren't willing to read through it all then you probably aren't ready to do this type of install. If I were in your shoes, and that was my goal, I would approach in the way stated above.

I read the whole thing. I'm going to go with the two BL's 12in ported box that I'm gunna have to get made. Speakers though, if I dont get them deaden and sealed when I get the install, is the bass going to distort the sound, you know what I mean!? I want some speakers that are going to be real loud so I don't just hear the damn bass. This is going to be in my trunk so is there something I can do to prevent all the rattle. Now I'm going to get a kinetic battery that I guess I can sit next to my subs so I don't kill my alternator,thats what my buddy told me to do. Amp wise I'm going to look into a 3000w amp, not sure what one though. And for my deck, probably some nice touch screen I can find online for a good price.

A kenetik battery is an AGM battery... That means you have to use an AGM battery under your hood as well. For 3,000 watts, just 1 extra battery isn't going to cut it. You'll need 3 batteries and you'll see some voltage drop, or 2 batteries and a 180-200 amp HO alt and you'll see very little voltage drop. If I were you, I'd just get a single BL 15 off of a 1200-1500w amp. You'll be saving money all around then and will still be loud.

No... No you actually don't have to use an AGM battery in the front.

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I mean RE audio, reaudio.com. The guy building my box is someone who owns a car audio store. The 2 bls are ordered. Doing all the electrical upgrades, battery etc..

RE audio doesn't currently make a 2500 amp. http://www.reaudio.com/amps.php

Are you talking about the XTX 5000.1 ? It's the only one on their website that makes 2500 watts. Or are you looking at a previous model?

Does the person with the car audio store have a website? If not, ask him for the specifications on your box before he makes it. Someone else here just had a box "professionally made" by a car audio shop and quite frankly, it's a piece of shit.

What route are you going for alternator and batteries then for your electrical upgrade?

And, jealous of your BL route. I would like to run two of them at somepoint as well. :)

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I mean RE audio, reaudio.com. The guy building my box is someone who owns a car audio store. The 2 bls are ordered. Doing all the electrical upgrades, battery etc..

RE audio doesn't currently make a 2500 amp. http://www.reaudio.com/amps.php

Are you talking about the XTX 5000.1 ? It's the only one on their website that makes 2500 watts. Or are you looking at a previous model?

Does the person with the car audio store have a website? If not, ask him for the specifications on your box before he makes it. Someone else here just had a box "professionally made" by a car audio shop and quite frankly, it's a piece of shit.

What route are you going for alternator and batteries then for your electrical upgrade?

And, jealous of your BL route. I would like to run two of them at somepoint as well. :)

I meant the the xtx 5000.1 at one ohm 2500. As for the box it says the ported size I need for one, so I figure double it right? I'm putting in an extra battery in the back, not sure what yet. And maybe an upgrade for the alternator, not sure what though, any suggestions?

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As for the box it says the ported size I need for one, so I figure double it right?

Yes. But you know its not that simple. The tuning needs to be correct and you must also maintain the proper port area while doing reaching said tuning. It isn't that complicated, but people still get it wrong. And if you're paying someone else to do it, you want to make sure that they do it correctly. That's why I suggested posting the box specifications that the builder plans to build the box to.

And maybe an upgrade for the alternator, not sure what though, any suggestions?

Mechman and DC. They both have sections here on the forum. Those are the two most highly acclaimed that I know of.

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So what would be the dimensions for the box, I'm jus getting one bl now 12.

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