Technical question for Alpine CDA-9887

[Hotdog69 3]

I have a Alpine CDA-9887 with the imprint unit and I was wanting to know if somehing was possible. I do not run any speakers off the deck and I have the power IC disabled. I have two amps installed right now and hooked up with the RCA's. What I want to know is can I turn the Power IC on and use the speaker wire outputs off the Alpine deck as high level inputs for a third amp and will the Imprint work using both low level RCA's and High level Speaker wire outputs.

[jonbearsmt 919]

sure but why? why not just split the RCA's

[Hotdog69 3]

sure but why? why not just split the RCA's

well would that split or lower my voltage my on the RCA's. I thought if I was able to use speaker out that it would not mess with the voltage out on RCA's

[jonbearsmt 919]

you would not tell a difference perfectly fine to split the signal once.

[Hotdog69 3]

Thanks for your help bigjon.

one other question I imprinted my system already once and it sounds really good but I had my crossovers on the amps set when I did it. Now my understanding is when you do the impring you want to run it with the crossovers off. If I want to go active on my system would I have to imprint with cross overs off then put passive crossovers on each speaker in the system.

I think I heard that CDA-9887 can do two way active but not three way

[///M5 2,833]

It can do 2 way, but I wouldn't use imprint to do that. Every imprint implementation I've heard was jacked and fixed by resetting to zero and starting over.

[Hotdog69 3]

so I am better off without imprint and doing the time alignment myself then l can just use the crossover on the amps for lowpass filter and put a passive filter inline for the hi pass filter on each speaker?

[///M5 2,833]

The 9887 has all the processing built in, it's just manual. No need for the imprint unless you want the automatic crap.

[///M5 2,833]

Whomever sold you the H100 with it was shady.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

I had to use the pxa-h100 with my cda117 to unlock active processing, but like Sean says I don't think you need it with the 9887.

Did you mean the KTX-100 ?

I wouldn't use it either if so.

[Hotdog69 3]

I had to use the pxa-h100 with my cda117 to unlock active processing, but like Sean says I don't think you need it with the 9887.

Did you mean the KTX-100 ?

I wouldn't use it either if so.

I never said which one I had but it is the Alpine ktx-100eq Imprint sound processor. I purchased it separate from the radio so I could imprint my vehicle. It sounds really good to me but I am going to add a third amp a Rockford Fosgate P5002 and pick up some Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6 Pro speakers for the front doors.

I am still open to suggestion on the speakers though because I heard for better midbass you need a speaker with FS around 50-60hz.

Edited April 21, 2012 by Hotdog69

[Hotdog69 3]

The 9887 has all the processing built in, it's just manual. No need for the imprint unless you want the automatic crap.

To be honest I dont know if I have the ear to set it up properly myself. They always say how your system sounds is subjective depending on the person listening and I have never sat in a true SQ car to know the difference. This is why I went with the automatic crap

Edited April 22, 2012 by Hotdog69

[///M5 2,833]

Is automatic chosen by a computer better than choosing for your ears? I realize you need a starting point, so use the Imprint for that since you have it. Btw, I never said anything about SQ. I'd set it up so it sounds best to you no matter what that is. SQrewing it up in your case won't help you feel better about it.

I am a little more concerned with your approach on midbass additions though. If you still have the gear in your sig, then it's time to change mid/high drivers completely and not add more drivers.

[Hotdog69 3]

I good with that suggestion and my goal is to have speakers that can keep up with the bass in my vehicle. I am doing right around 151db right now and the mids/highs I have can not keep up.

What would your recommendations be?

Amps I have available to use are the Rockford Fosgate 500x and a Fosgate P5002. If I have to I can switch out the Power 800.2 from my other car with the P5002 is I need more power

[///M5 2,833]

What can you fit. 6x8's will not cut it, not even close.

And if you want 150dB+ out of your front stage you'll be deaf in minutes.

[Hotdog69 3]

151db is out of my sub stage. I just need something that can keep up with my sub stage.

should be able to get anything from 5 1/4 up to 8" in the doors with some slight modifications. Tweeters are currently up high and it helps bring the stage up in this picture you can see where they are located.

[///M5 2,833]

Perhaps I wasn't clear.

What do you mean by keeping up? 150dB from a front stage will fucking kill your ears VERY quickly.

[Hotdog69 3]

When I am playing full tilt my sub stage completely drowns out my mids and highs. I want to have mids and highs that I can hear when playing full tilt. I am usually fine on rock music but it is really an issue when playing rap music.

[///M5 2,833]

Still tells me nothing really. You need to work on your definition.

Either way, you need some components at the very least and even then its going to be tough.

Classically things are lost with more than 10dB of separation. Considering it is different frequencies you buy a lot since they won't mask nearly as much as similar frequencies. Either what you have isn't within 40dB of the rest so you have a LONG way to get to "keeping up"

[Hotdog69 3]

Well this summer is the time to address these issues.

what in your opinion do I need to to buy so I can get to the point of keeping up. I will take the list and work on it this summer.

[Hotdog69 3]

would a set of JL Audio ZR650-CSi 6 1/2" Evolution ZR series 2 way components work?

They are rated at 175 watts rms each side and I can pick them up for right under 500.00

Also maybe these

RE AUDIO XXX6.5C 6.5"

Edited April 22, 2012 by Hotdog69

[///M5 2,833]

Stop typing in black. That's annoying.

Again, perhaps I should repeat myself more clearly.

Let's use your current 6x8's. They are 88dB efficient and are rated for 60w. If you bought more of these and had them spaced infinitesimally close (I know, not possible) for them to hit 151dB in their normal playing range (ie not the low) you'd need more than 16 of them. In the real world you need more than 16 pairs and even then with 60w going to each driver you may not be there.

Will the JL's be louder than a single pair of them? Sure. Are they worth buying for your application? No....but before going any further perhaps understanding your true goals are necessary. "Hearing words" is way different than "keeping up".

[ssh 924]

You want your front stage louder so it's "closer" to your subbass at full tilt, but you don't want it to be even (in terms of output) to the subbass, or you WILL be deaf. Period, end of story.

Specify a budget.

Your going to want to go with the largest speaker you can fit in your doors.

Are you willing to play with fiberglass?

Are you willing to give up on midbass output for loudness? If so then a PA style mid may be for you. In combination with one or two large format tweeters per a-pillar (aligned vertically).

(doubt you want to mess with horns, or have the room)

[Hotdog69 3]

I want to be able to hear the full range of music and vocals weather at low volume or max volume.

PA speakers?

AQ-PA-6.5

and did not mean to type in black was just copy and pasting while I was searching for a more suitable speaker set up

as far as what I would spend to get it right, I am open to that it would just be a matter of how long it will take me to make the purchase. I will have about 400 available this month or 800 within two months.

Edited April 22, 2012 by Hotdog69