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Drmmr4life

Help with 18" Box

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On the opposite side of the port is where I would put it. I would build sub facing up, port facing trunk.

No i know that lol i meant dimmension wise where on the top? centered? or offset or does it not matter?

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On the opposite side of the port is where I would put it. I would build sub facing up, port facing trunk.

No i know that lol i meant dimmension wise where on the top? centered? or offset or does it not matter?

Performance wise, as long as the driver isn't right next to the port, then it shouldn't matter really.

Aesthetically, well I don't have to spell it out. :)

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I put mine relatively close to the corner just so that the weight of the woofer rests more on the side of the box that just the middle of the baffle board. But yeah, I would just stick it wherever you feel like it.

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awesome!! starting today!! getting a sheet and a half. . . no bracing necessary correct? and il post build pics as i go (:

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awesome!! starting today!! getting a sheet and a half. . . no bracing necessary correct? and il post build pics as i go (:

Have you figured out your port dimensions, port area, and port length for tuning? And also took into account port displacement and driver placement from the enclosure volume?

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Have you figured out your port dimensions, port area, and port length for tuning? And also took into account port displacement and driver placement from the enclosure volume?

I assumed he was going off of my dimensions...

which did indeed take into account displacements

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Have you figured out your port dimensions, port area, and port length for tuning? And also took into account port displacement and driver placement from the enclosure volume?

I assumed he was going off of my dimensions...

which did indeed take into account displacements

I saw you said: "L-style slot port that is 6 inches wide and a total of 30 inches wide."

So 30" width, and 6" height? What about length?

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I assumed everyone built L-style slot ports like me. Oopsies!

The height is the overall height of the enclosure minus the double baffle and the bottom piece (giving a height of 14.75 for the port). The width was 6 inches and the total length was 30". Going 24" back and then making the L bend adding the remaining 6" inches of the length. Giving about 14.5 square inches of port are per cubic feet and a tuning frequency of 32.13hz.

Just plugged in numbers into the Torres calculator. Used .26 cubic feet for woofer displacement.

I can do a 3-D model OP if you would like one.

Edited by Frostedflakejake

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I assumed everyone built L-style slot ports like me. Oopsies!

The height is the overall height of the enclosure minus the double baffle and the bottom piece (giving a height of 14.75 for the port). The width was 6 inches and the total length was 30". Going 24" back and then making the L bend adding the remaining 6" inches of the length. Giving about 14.5 square inches of port are per cubic feet and a tuning frequency of 32.13hz.

Just plugged in numbers into the Torres calculator. Used .26 cubic feet for woofer displacement.

I can do a 3-D model OP if you would like one.

dude a 3d model would be awesome!! and if box height is 17, would i minus .75 for top and botton, and port height be 15.5?? or are you including a double baffle? that would make sense lol and i assumed lport as yu did and such haha

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Ugh. My licensing software for my 3-D modeling program is being a butthead.

I will try again tomorrow or at the very least give you the cut out sheets you'll need. Always nice to double check :)

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Alright so the license server is being a butthead. No model :(

To ensure common terminology:

The baffle of the box obviously is the face where the subwoofer is placed in.

The bottom of the box is opposite to the baffle.

The front of the box will be the face facing the BACK of the vehicle

The back of the box will be the face facing the Rear seats of the vehicle

The sides of the box are the remaining two sides which face the sides of the vehicle

The baffle and the bottom will have the same dimensions. So including the double baffle, you will need 3 pieces of 38" x 28". They will rest above and below, respectfully, the two side pieces and the front and back. Meaning that you will drill through the baffle into the sides and front and back. Same goes for the bottom piece. (hope that makes sense)

The back piece will be 38" x 14.75". It will cover the side pieces and rest in between the baffle and bottom piece.

One side piece will be 14.75" x 26.5". it will fit between the baffle and bottom as well as between the front and back.

The front piece will be 31.25" x 14.75". It will cover one side piece, and then will be exactly 6" short of covering the other side piece. This is how the 6" x 14.75" port area is created.

The other side piece, and in turn the last piece, will be 14.75" x 27.25". It is .75" longer because the front of the box will not cover one of the side pieces because that side piece will act as a port wall. To be honest, I seem to forget this EVERY time and then that one side piece isn't flush with the edge. It doesn't really bother me, but I might as well suggest to do it right :)

Alright so thats for the box, but now you need too additional port walls. You can decide to change how you assemble the port to be more cosmetically friendly, but quite frankly, i never really care. So my way will have visible screw heads facing the rear. Anyways, one port wall will be 14.75" x 22.5". The other will be 14.75" x 6.75".

Now you already said you've built a few boxes so I won't waste your time describing how i would assemble it. Just make SURE the put the L-port together before screwing the port into the box. Otherwise you won't be able to get the drill into the box to attach one of the port walls to the other.

Please, Please, Please double check everything. I don't want to be responsible for a mess-up! But i am relatively confident, but i can't say for certain.

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thnks man! verything you said sounds perfect! it all makes ense to me and i understand it. . . i think i need two full sheets in order to do it so getting them today and some more spax scres. . and some nice tighbnond 2 (:

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Alright so the license server is being a butthead. No model sad.png

To ensure common terminology:

The baffle of the box obviously is the face where the subwoofer is placed in.

The bottom of the box is opposite to the baffle.

The front of the box will be the face facing the BACK of the vehicle

The back of the box will be the face facing the Rear seats of the vehicle

The sides of the box are the remaining two sides which face the sides of the vehicle

The baffle and the bottom will have the same dimensions. So including the double baffle, you will need 3 pieces of 38" x 28". They will rest above and below, respectfully, the two side pieces and the front and back. Meaning that you will drill through the baffle into the sides and front and back. Same goes for the bottom piece. (hope that makes sense)

The back piece will be 38" x 14.75". It will cover the side pieces and rest in between the baffle and bottom piece.

One side piece will be 14.75" x 26.5". it will fit between the baffle and bottom as well as between the front and back.

The front piece will be 31.25" x 14.75". It will cover one side piece, and then will be exactly 6" short of covering the other side piece. This is how the 6" x 14.75" port area is created.

The other side piece, and in turn the last piece, will be 14.75" x 27.25". It is .75" longer because the front of the box will not cover one of the side pieces because that side piece will act as a port wall. To be honest, I seem to forget this EVERY time and then that one side piece isn't flush with the edge. It doesn't really bother me, but I might as well suggest to do it right smile.png

Alright so thats for the box, but now you need too additional port walls. You can decide to change how you assemble the port to be more cosmetically friendly, but quite frankly, i never really care. So my way will have visible screw heads facing the rear. Anyways, one port wall will be 14.75" x 22.5". The other will be 14.75" x 6.75".

Now you already said you've built a few boxes so I won't waste your time describing how i would assemble it. Just make SURE the put the L-port together before screwing the port into the box. Otherwise you won't be able to get the drill into the box to attach one of the port walls to the other.

Please, Please, Please double check everything. I don't want to be responsible for a mess-up! But i am relatively confident, but i can't say for certain.

everything is cut and looks good. the only this is the port. you have it 22.5 and 6.75, that leaves the front opening 6" wide (which is right) but by going 22.5 back, it leaves the back part of th port 4" wide. can i simply fix this by cutting the 22.5 down to 20.5 and extended the 6.75 to 8.75?

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Do whatever you have to to keep that 6'' constant.

To answer your question, yes. You can do that.

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good. hers some pics. pulled a 141.9 on music with about 1200rms. something like that. took 1st in my class anyways

DSC01600.jpgDSC01603.jpgDSC01602.jpgDSC01659.jpg483306_4083525722107_1697808373_n.jpg

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Not hating since I don't even have my system built yet... But I got my Box designed by Pete at PWK and he used 45's in all the corners, .385 round overs when the sound had to go in a U shape... And he even went as far as to make the double baffle act as an additional 45 at the mouth of the port. I'm sure everyone here has some good points but his design is one of the best designs I've seen (in my instance) and all of those little things that he does could bring you well into the 45 range..... Or just send him 50$ and wait a week.. He promises your box will be the best one possible for maximum (spl or loudness depending on which path you choose) output in YOUR vehicle with YOUR current equipment.

Shout out for all the guys that helped him, you guys are awesome.

Only reason I'd say PWK over most other people is he does artificial output testing of many different box types with your equipment in your vehicle... And then when he finds the best box type he plays with all the variables, not even leaving the woofer placement to chance.

Again guys on SSA ae freakin awesome, I'm just giving credit where credit is due. If there is anything besides box design, the guys on SSA are beasts, but when you have someone as smart and talented as Pete, with such a great service for only 50$... Why would you leave your box to chance. I didn't.... And I know when I finally get mine together it will be crazy.

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Not hating since I don't even have my system built yet... But I got my Box designed by Pete at PWK and he used 45's in all the corners, .385 round overs when the sound had to go in a U shape... And he even went as far as to make the double baffle act as an additional 45 at the mouth of the port. I'm sure everyone here has some good points but his design is one of the best designs I've seen (in my instance) and all of those little things that he does could bring you well into the 45 range..... Or just send him 50$ and wait a week.. He promises your box will be the best one possible for maximum (spl or loudness depending on which path you choose) output in YOUR vehicle with YOUR current equipment.

Shout out for all the guys that helped him, you guys are awesome.

Only reason I'd say PWK over most other people is he does artificial output testing of many different box types with your equipment in your vehicle... And then when he finds the best box type he plays with all the variables, not even leaving the woofer placement to chance.

Again guys on SSA ae freakin awesome, I'm just giving credit where credit is due. If there is anything besides box design, the guys on SSA are beasts, but when you have someone as smart and talented as Pete, with such a great service for only 50$... Why would you leave your box to chance. I didn't.... And I know when I finally get mine together it will be crazy.

You speak on ill-informed knowledge and speculation.

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Congrats on the score Mike.

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Not hating since I don't even have my system built yet... But I got my Box designed by Pete at PWK and he used 45's in all the corners, .385 round overs when the sound had to go in a U shape... And he even went as far as to make the double baffle act as an additional 45 at the mouth of the port. I'm sure everyone here has some good points but his design is one of the best designs I've seen (in my instance) and all of those little things that he does could bring you well into the 45 range..... Or just send him 50$ and wait a week.. He promises your box will be the best one possible for maximum (spl or loudness depending on which path you choose) output in YOUR vehicle with YOUR current equipment.

Shout out for all the guys that helped him, you guys are awesome.

Only reason I'd say PWK over most other people is he does artificial output testing of many different box types with your equipment in your vehicle... And then when he finds the best box type he plays with all the variables, not even leaving the woofer placement to chance.

Again guys on SSA ae freakin awesome, I'm just giving credit where credit is due. If there is anything besides box design, the guys on SSA are beasts, but when you have someone as smart and talented as Pete, with such a great service for only 50$... Why would you leave your box to chance. I didn't.... And I know when I finally get mine together it will be crazy.

You speak on ill-informed knowledge and speculation.

What's ill-informed? Lol should I even start to reply?

There is no speculation... Pete actually does all of those calculations and models to test output, and there is nothing ill-informed because his results speak for themselves.

Guys who ask him for a box design and get one from him... Then question it are always wrong. One guy placed an order, gave all his info to Pete... And Pete came back with a sealed box that would give him maximum output in his situation with his equipment...

Needless to say he didn't believe "Pete's mumbo jumbo" and proceeded to try over 6 different box designs to find out non of them even came close to the frequency response and the output of his box. So the guy paid Pete.. Thought he was full of crap... Build 6 other boxes wasting idk how much money and time... Just to find out Pete was actually right and he just doesn't make up numbers like some people think. Who is I'll-informed? Well I doubt its me on this topic.

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Only thing I gave that was speculation possibly is his 141 score. With some adjustments to his box, and improvements... (assuming he doesn't get a design from pwk and only does some 45's, smoothing, port flaring, reinforcing possibly... That I believe he could gain multiple DB. The only part that's speculation is the number I gave being 145 db... Which is totally possible. 3 DB isn't that hard to gain on an unrefined set up. There is no doubt in my mind that he could gain an impressive amount of DB just by making slight refinements and improvements to his existing set up.

Is everything inside that box as smooth as glass? I'd guess not...

Are all the corners 45'd and then rounded smooth on top of that? I didn't read that he did that...

Is his port flared at all? Or are the corners of the port even sanded to be not square? Again I didn't notice that...

Did he do round overs inside the box ?

Has he tried to play it full tilt and locate any external box flexing and reinforce those weaker spots?

Even If he did do all of these things it's better then what you guys offered. I've seen more posts saying negative unhelpful things rather then advise and suggestions. Go a head and reply with whatever. He will read this and maybe check / try some of my suggestions and I can't wait to see his new score

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I have seen plenty of undesired results from PWK. He is not as good as you are making him seem.

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Only thing I gave that was speculation possibly is his 141 score. With some adjustments to his box, and improvements... (assuming he doesn't get a design from pwk and only does some 45's, smoothing, port flaring, reinforcing possibly... That I believe he could gain multiple DB. The only part that's speculation is the number I gave being 145 db... Which is totally possible. 3 DB isn't that hard to gain on an unrefined set up. There is no doubt in my mind that he could gain an impressive amount of DB just by making slight refinements and improvements to his existing set up.

Is everything inside that box as smooth as glass? I'd guess not...

Are all the corners 45'd and then rounded smooth on top of that? I didn't read that he did that...

Is his port flared at all? Or are the corners of the port even sanded to be not square? Again I didn't notice that...

Did he do round overs inside the box ?

Has he tried to play it full tilt and locate any external box flexing and reinforce those weaker spots?

Even If he did do all of these things it's better then what you guys offered. I've seen more posts saying negative unhelpful things rather then advise and suggestions. Go a head and reply with whatever. He will read this and maybe check / try some of my suggestions and I can't wait to see his new score

i know i can hit higher. withour a TL i cant. and btw 45's 9/10 decrease spl. just letting you know. this was a basic box build. this isnt my end system. ill tweak it a hair

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