Subwoofer Enclosure Material

[Sencheezy 689]

I was simply wondering what is some of the different types of Building Material are the best? I know the word best is subjective, but in this scenerio, weight is not an issue. Of course, I could simply double up on 3/4 MDF, and do some well bracing, I'm aware of that. But I'm also aware that, the material your using can greatly alter the output. Thats the main reason extreme vehicles use concrete. I am not willing to use concrete. I know I said weight is not an issue, but thats a bit much, plus would put me into the extreme class.

The reason I'm asking, is because this will be my burp enclosure. I've heard of some competitors using marble, and other hard/rock like material, this is something I am not willing to use. Theres a buddy of mine that owns a wood distrubiting company, so I can get access to any type of wood for if not free, dirt cheap. He informed me of one material, I believe it was Aztek, or something of that nature. A hard like PVC industrial material that is extremely dense. Another material I have my eye on is 9ply oak. He informed me that it can stop a .45 bullet, I believe. Also Russian Baltic Birch.

I'm not exactly what it is when it comes to building material that influences the output, maybe the density and other factors. I can also get this materials at most common thickness. IE, if I wanted to double up on two 3/4 MDF, he can simply get me 1.5".

Many thanks in advance.

Edited July 4, 2012 by Sencheezy

[16K 159]

double 3/4" mdf is what i used and its been holding up just fine....

but 7 ply birch would be nice as well...

[duanebrow 6]

Layer MDF and then void free plywood. change up the seams between layers to make the box even stronger.

[edouble101 314]

I think the material used is not as important as the enclosure design and build construction.

Try to eliminate rough surfaces and use smooth rounded transitions in corner joints. Port entry inside the enclosure and port exit outside the enclosure should be designed for efficient airflow velocity for your enclosure design. That doesnt mean the biggest port possible. Bracing needs to be effectively used to not prohibit airflow to the port yet to eliminate enclosure flexing.

Eventually weight will be an issue. Your vehicle has it's limitations.

If you can find a void free birch plywood that is my choice. I know in my area all there is

is C grade China crap

[Julian 641]

Fiberglass resin is your friend

[Sencheezy 689]

Layer MDF and then void free plywood. change up the seams between layers to make the box even stronger.

MDF inside layer, void free plywood outside?

How do I go about changing up the seams between layers?

I think the material used is not as important as the enclosure design and build construction.

Try to eliminate rough surfaces and use smooth rounded transitions in corner joints. Port entry inside the enclosure and port exit outside the enclosure should be designed for efficient airflow velocity for your enclosure design. That doesnt mean the biggest port possible. Bracing needs to be effectively used to not prohibit airflow to the port yet to eliminate enclosure flexing.

Eventually weight will be an issue. Your vehicle has it's limitations.

If you can find a void free birch plywood that is my choice. I know in my area all there is

is C grade China crap

Weight can be an issue, but I'm avoiding concrete, marble, and any other heavy material such as said examples. How should I attack the corner joints? As far as offering the most effecting way to smooth the transition from wall to wall air flow. This enclosure I will be using this material if for a smaller enclosure, 2.75 cuft for a single 15" zcon, so I'm not sure what is the best method to brace in such a small area. I will also be utilizing a flared aero port, such as you used.

[edouble101 314]

First off 2.75 cubes for a ZCON is a little more than half of what that driver needs.

Big volume and lots of power gets the ZCON loud.

Easiest for corners are 45's. Flared ends internally and externally are a must with round ports.

What freq does your Explorer peak at?

[Sencheezy 689]

First off 2.75 cubes for a ZCON is a little more than half of what that driver needs.

Big volume and lots of power gets the ZCON loud.

Easiest for corners are 45's. Flared ends internally and externally are a must with round ports.

What freq does your Explorer peak at?

flat between 42-47, further testing with a sealed enclosure is needed to define a more definite answer.

This enclosure is designed for burping. High power will be utilized in short burst. Is the reasoning for the size.

[edouble101 314]

Model this in WinISD Sencheezy.

2.75 cunbes @ 45hz

4 cubes @ 45hz

5 cubes @ 45hz

There is almost a 3db gain from 2.75 cubes to 5 cubes.

Tuned at 45 hz, no matter what size enclsoure you SSF should be set no lower than 38hz@24db for 5kw (you didnt stae power but a couple dudes on here are running 5kw for burps).

The ZCON is very peaky at tuning, no matter what he freq is or enlcosure size for that matter. Definitley a boom box driver, needs a large enclosure to get the most out of it.

[///M5 2,833]

Fiberglass resin is your friend

Not for strength if you are putting it on mdf

[Infinite913 381]

build it out of screen material like for a window when you open it so you can let in air. its so strong

[Sencheezy 689]

Model this in WinISD Sencheezy.

2.75 cunbes @ 45hz

4 cubes @ 45hz

5 cubes @ 45hz

There is almost a 3db gain from 2.75 cubes to 5 cubes.

Tuned at 45 hz, no matter what size enclsoure you SSF should be set no lower than 38hz@24db for 5kw (you didnt stae power but a couple dudes on here are running 5kw for burps).

The ZCON is very peaky at tuning, no matter what he freq is or enlcosure size for that matter. Definitley a boom box driver, needs a large enclosure to get the most out of it.

interesting, that extra db is what I'm aiming for. I'll be burping 5k, then if goes well, 10k. I just didn't think it would be a good idea to go with a larger enclosure on said power.

[swift 501]

My box is 13ply Russian Baltic Birch. very nice wood. Not cheap but you say you have a hook up. 45's in corners and also with bondo added then sanded to create rounded corners. Then resin, sand heavily and paint with a high gloss automotive paint to get a complete smooth surface inside. lots of work..... All doubled 3/4 with rod bracing. Strong smooth bitch when done. Results....unsure....

[duanebrow 6]

going from 5k to 10k should give you 3 db in theory. Going to a 5-6 cf box will give you the same gain on 5k.

[95Honda 486]

I used to swear by a mirror smooth finish inside, but the more research I have done over the last decade has lead me to the conlusion that a smooth surface is actually more turbulent overall inside the cabinet than a slightly rough one because of the small turbulant boundry of air right on the surface that keeps everything else flowing smoothly... Look up Laminar/Turbulent/Seperation and maybe this will help...

Just a little food for though I guess...

[edouble101 314]

Here are some graphs. Plotted are 2.75 cubes and 5 cubes both tuned to 45hz.

5 cubes has a higher peak at tuning.

Xmax is controlled at tuning on 5k. If you play anything lower than 40hz on 5K you more than likely will mechanically damage the driver.

As far as port area goes..... Since this is a burp box (it WILL sound like complete shit on music), I would go as big as possible.

(2) 10" aero ports will need to be 35.5" long each

or

(1) 10" aero will need to be 14.6" long.

[edouble101 314]

Make sure you check my numbers!!!!!!

[duanebrow 6]

That looks like what I got.