Will you help me design a SQ Front Stage/Custom A-Pillars?

[///M5 2,833]

Reflections are a bitch up top, but so be it. That being said I wouldn't want to fire at the windshield if at all possible.

Do you really need a 3 way processor? Curious what the sub crossover capabilities of your headunit is already as that can take care of the low leaving you only needing a 2 way crossover.

The install you show could work and potentially could solve the passenger seat woes we discussed before. I am rather concerned with their tweeter aiming, but that will require some playing on your part.

[jonblack 0]

I think my pathlengths will be longer and therefore, relatively speaking, a little better in terms of left/right length differences.

I was thinking 3 way processing, so I could bandpass the mids. I wasn't really thinking about using the 3 way for bass, just mids and highs.

Am I missing something on how the modern crossover offerings operate?

jonblack

[edouble101 314]

After reading through this thread I am not sure that you know the differences between active and passive crossovers.

This may help explain. http://firenzeaudio.50webs.com/tech_xover.htm

Have you heard any newer component sets installed in factory locations? It is possible that you are looking for more than you need right now. Imaging and stage height will more than likely be compromised compared to am elaborate a-pillar install but maybe it will be good enough for you or atleast a good start.

[jonblack 0]

After reading through this thread I am not sure that you know the differences between active and passive crossovers.

I am pretty sure I know the diffence between active and passive crossovers. I remember my first set of 15" woofers. That was back in 1986 or 1987. I ordered a coil from Parts Express to make a home-made low pass crossover. Of course, the coil only gave a 6 db/Octave slope at 100 Hz so the woofer sounded very muddy.

I used to work with the hermetically sealed PAC passive crossovers and I always recommended 1000µF (I think that was the value) capacitors when people put 3.5" speakers in the dash locations. I sold many "bass blockers" over the years.

I also owned several electonic crossovers over the years, installed many active crossovers, and worked with 19" rack mounted 2-4 way crossover networks in the pro sound field. I always enjoyed a rack running a nice Rane AC24 which is a quality stereo 4 way crossover.

So, I do think I at least understand the difference between active and passive crossover networks.

Keep in mind I have not been around car audio gear for 15 or so years. We didn't call a crossover a processor back then. I am sure that modern equipment does a lot more than act as a crossover. I simply don't know what products (crossovers) are on the market today and what current trends are in system design and installation.

Have you heard any newer component sets installed in factory locations?

I have not heard a nice set of components in the factory locations. I want good sound and I enjoy building stuff, so I would like to make custom A-pillars.

Thanks for your help

jonblack

Edited July 13, 2012 by jonblack

[edouble101 314]

There are many active crossover options.

I prefer active head units. Pioneer, among others, offer active h/u. I have a DEX-P99RS.

The JBL MS8 is a popular processor and not seen often in the car audio the MiniDSP (very nice, highly expandable option).

....among many more.

[SS Teacher 177]

Audio Control still makes great products, but high end head units seem to be the way to go these days. I have also been out of car audio for a decade and things have changed indeed!

[///M5 2,833]

As I mentioned before the cheapest option will either be to sell your headunit and buy something like a used Pioneer 880prs....amusingly I sold mine this morning...or to buy a 2x4 miniDSP which will actually give you WAY more processing power but require a computer to make changes. I use a pair of those in my boat and they are ultra flexible. In your case you'd be out $109+shipping from Asia for one. $99 for the DSP and $10 for a 4chn Advanced plugin.

[ssh 924]

As I mentioned before the cheapest option will either be to sell your headunit and buy something like a used Pioneer 880prs....amusingly I sold mine this morning...or to buy a 2x4 miniDSP which will actually give you WAY more processing power but require a computer to make changes. I use a pair of those in my boat and they are ultra flexible. In your case you'd be out $109+shipping from Asia for one. $99 for the DSP and $10 for a 4chn Advanced plugin.

Can you make changes essentially "on the fly" with the laptop connected? How long would it take to change some crossover point and slope?

[///M5 2,833]

It's instantaneous and on the fly when connected...except you can only click on one "channel" at a time so listening to them requires you to click on all 4 and make the change. Each one happens in real time and there is a defeat so you can focus on each side independently really easily. The user interface is uber simple as well.

There are two ways to input a crossover and slope. One the 6,12,18...48dB and type, the other is to use a custom biquad (which with a spreadsheet I can email you is super easy). The biquads allow all sorts of fun filters. On one of the channels in my boat I have some coaxials where JL thought that having the tweets be more lively than I like was logical. I wrote a shelf filter and knocked down their artificial boost to really make them sound better. All sorts of fun flexibility when you have a modular DSP.

[ssh 924]

That pretty much seals the deal in my book.

[///M5 2,833]

Only "concern" with it is the low input voltage/output voltage capability. If you have a cheap amp your gain may need to be in the region where thermal noise becomes an issue. Coming from a headunit is no big deal, but direct from an Ipod like device can be.

[ssh 924]

Only "concern" with it is the low input voltage/output voltage capability. If you have a cheap amp your gain may need to be in the region where thermal noise becomes an issue. Coming from a headunit is no big deal, but direct from an Ipod like device can be.

Curious what was the voltage from the tablet?

[///M5 2,833]

280mV with a 0dB and I split it. I am by no means promoting 4v headunits as the solution as that whole marketing ploy is a joke, but at the same time a sub 100mV signal is somewhat weak.

[///M5 2,833]

Side note, my phone had nearly a volt out so it is VERY equipment dependent.