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shizzzon

Breakthrough in Innovative Car Audio Protection

SMART Monitor DC Sensor poll  

5 members have voted

  1. 1. What DC Sensor should be the primary sensor for our SMART Monitor?

    • 100A rms \ 150A peak with upgrade option to 200A rms \ 300A peak for $20
      4
    • 200A rms \ 300A peak primary
      1


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We at SPL-Lab strive to bring the customer new, innovative products to the market. Some of these products are more improved over what's currently out there and others just plain do not exist.

But, SPL-Lab is not just a company aimed at marketing sound measurement devices. We are here to bring the customer, the market, what it needs, what it wants and what it's been begging for.

What does the market want?

Something to fill the gap. Something that just doesn't exist. Something that when you see it and use it will you see how unique such a product is that you possibly cannot function without it. A piece of mind you could say.

Coming soon in 2012-

SPL-Lab Smart Monitor

This device monitors ACTIVELY within an automotive environment four key points in the customer's vehicle.

AC Voltage

AC Amperage

DC Voltage

DC Amperage

Ranges-

AC Voltage - 0-300v

AC Amperage - 0-100A using TRUE RMS technology!

DC Voltage - 0-30v(capable of 6v, 8v, 12v, 14v, 16v, 18v and 24v systems)

DC Current - 0-100A using TRUE RMS technology!

This device can be mounted in the driver's view to see AC and DC V\A in realtime.

_MG_7229_DxO.jpg

_MG_7230_DxO.jpg

Ps- This will be fully enclosed and engineered to withstand the sound pressure abuse our meters withstand which is levels that can exceed 180dB!

And do not worry about heat. This device will stay cool under normal operation.

So, that looks cool and all but that's it? Just active monitoring? Doesn't seem so "awesome" to me?

You are right! That is not everything!

The device features Threshold Levels for ALL FOUR monitoring points.

What does this mean?

Example-

Let's say a user has a 5,000w bass amp, a sub and some batteries in the back. Let's say this user has no idea what he\she is doing.

That is ok! With basic knowledge, our device will help prevent catastrophic failure and even prevent unforeseen failure for those users that had no control over potential issues that can arise in car audio.

So, the user hooks everything up..

User starts to adjust Threshold Levels.

AC-

Voltage - Do not Exceed 70v (5kw @1ohm ~70v\70A) This can prevent clipping if wanted.

Amperage - Do not Exceed 40a (this is to help protect tinsel leads or coil).

DC-

Voltage - Do not Drop Below 12.0v (this is to protect overworking alternator and excessive discharge levels from your battery(ies).

Amperage - Do not Exceed 100a (this is to prevent excessive cyclic current draw from low DC current devices such as an alternator).

You do not have to use Threshold levels if you do not want to either!

We have a Defeat option for those who compete to prevent our device from interfering!

Amazed yet?

There's more...

The device will come Fully Portable!

We had both customers and shop owners in mind when we engineered this.

Fully portable means user can either permanently install it in vehicle or plug it right up via 12v cigarette socket and fine tune and monitor system and unplug it and pack it away.

This device will be able to monitor your amp's voltage output and current draw from subwoofers to determine safe range playback when not installed actively.

Shop owners can also monitor dc voltage drop during test run to ensure adequate electrical system before leaving.

This device when used for the car audio market is comparable to take the place of a DMM for measuring ac\dc voltage, an Ammeter for measuring subwoofers current draw and a remote display allowing the user to monitor not just realtime DC voltage like other voltmeters but ALL 4 points-

DC voltage and current, AC voltage and current ALL on the same screen!

In the event any of your thresholds are tripped, the SMART Monitor will immediately kill the signal to all equipment it is monitoring.

It will immediately re-engage once the signal is back within safe ranges which usually is 1 second after trip. This will let you know and see why it tripped and to let you know that something needs attention before catastrophic failure occurs in the near future!

Here are pics of the sensors-

_MG_7233_DxO.jpg

If anyone is wondering how these sensors plug up to the Main block, it is simple.

All sensors plug up using standard USB Cable. We wanted to use a cable that is very popular so if the cable ever gets damaged, the user can easily replace it without trying to locate a "specialty cable."

And one last thing.. If you are not convinced enough yet, here is something else to think of-

Ever wanted to know what your "impedance rise" or "wattage output" is at a certain single sine wave? With our SMART Monitor, you will, in realtime, be able to calculate the AC Voltage and Amperage numbers to give you the answer you are looking for.

If our SMART Monitor says AC1: 46A 110V

Then that means your Impedance was 2.39Ω

Your wattage output was 5,060w.

Active Monitoring and protection gives a lot more peace of mind that your investment is easily more protected than even before!

For fun sessions and for personal test n tune, you are now able to measure actual impedance when testing with single sine waves for "burping" and measuring actual wattage output.

Shop owners can now have a tool that they can feel more comfortable with using to know that the whole vehicle from front to rear is within a safe operating zone rather than relying on the customer to know exactly what he\she needs to do if they do not have our device installed.

Our device comes bundled with the Mainblock with display module and 1 AC v\a sensor and 1 DC v\a sensor with USB cables and power adapter for car.

RETAIL Pricing for this entire bundle will be less than our USB Meter.

This is major news to be able to bring so many features for such a new device at such a price!

You do not have to purchase both sensors if you do not want\need them!

If you only need 1 of the 2 sensors, that will save you $50 per sensor.

Do not fear though. We will gladly sell additional sensor to those who need replacements or add-ons to meet the 1 AC 1 DC sensor bundle.

Mass Production begins at the end of next month...

Do I dare ask?

Who is ready for a Group buy? smiley.gif

Any questions or comments, post them in this thread.

We will create a new thread with Group buy pricing and Group buy dates when the time comes.

Edited by shizzzon

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Only thing I could add is I would rather see typical cat5 inputs rather than USB since cat5 cables can be had at low price specially for long runs.

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True.. We chose USB throughout because this device is flashable.

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Interesting for sure.

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Id be in. Im looking for an LED voltmeter, this is just a little more intense. :D

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Good to see this thing coming to life :)

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We have a question for everyone.

The current DC Sensor side is setup to accept up to 100A of continuous current flow through a power cable that would run through this device.

Would it be more sufficient for us to upgrade the DC sensor to a permanent 200A continuous sensor(1/0 cable fitting) or as an upgraded option?

FYI - 200A continuous will be safe for the following scenarios-

In-line with an amp's power line where the driver configuration is wired no lower than recommended allowing normal current draw.

If a customer's sensor were to burn up, we willcan supply another sensor as we will keep these in stock so no worries there.

We are just stating that under normal operations, for example, an amp that has dual inputs.

Using only one of the 2 inputs for the DC sensor is all that is required. Surges up to 300A are fine as long as the continuous current flow through the sensor is not over 200A which in normal conditions should never be.

So, let us know...

We are trying to find out if the public wantsneeds 100A continuous DC Sensor or 200A continuous DC Sensor.

It doesn't matter what power cable the DC Sensor is monitoring to properly protect against voltage drop! This is important to know. So let us know what you think.

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Hmm....I like it as an upgrade. Simply because the people who won't need it don't have to pay for it.

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We were requested to post up Wattage calculations for those who do not want to do the math.

This is a guide to let you know what our DC 100A sensor is capable of handling to allow you to better choose which sensor is more appropriate for the average user.

The following is wattage calculations based on "paper calculations." That means without ANY OTHER variable effecting the result. Also, the following is actual current draw, not output power from your amp. To compensate for this, I will post theoretical wattage output capabilities next to it.

(class d eff- 82%, class ab eff- 67%. This is used for following calculations)

DC Sensor 100A-

Class D amps continuous-

10.0v - 1000w pull, 820w output

11.0v - 1100w pull, 902w output

12.0v - 1200w pull, 984w output

13.0v - 1300w pull, 1066w output

14.0v - 1400w pull, 1148w output

15.0v - 1500w pull, 1230w output

16.0v - 1600w pull, 1312w output

17.0v - 1700w pull, 1394w output

18.0v - 1800w pull, 1476w output

19.0v - 1900w pull, 1558w output

SURGE(quick spikes, amp watt rating)-

10.0v - 1500w pull, 1230w output

11.0v - 1650w pull, 1353w output

12.0v - 1800w pull, 1476w output

13.0v - 1950w pull, 1599w output

14.0v - 2100w pull, 1722w output

15.0v - 2250w pull, 1845w output

16.0v - 2400w pull, 1968w output

17.0v - 2550w pull, 2091w output

18.0v - 2700w pull, 2214w output

19.0v - 2850w pull, 2337w output

Class AB amps continuous-

10.0v - 1000w pull, 670w output

11.0v - 1100w pull, 737w output

12.0v - 1200w pull, 804w output

13.0v - 1300w pull, 871w output

14.0v - 1400w pull, 938w output

15.0v - 1500w pull, 1005w output

16.0v - 1600w pull, 1072w output

17.0v - 1700w pull, 1139w output

18.0v - 1800w pull, 1206w output

19.0v - 1900w pull, 1273w output

SURGE(quick spikes, amp watt rating)-

10.0v - 1500w pull, 1005w output

11.0v - 1650w pull, 1106w output

12.0v - 1800w pull, 1206w output

13.0v - 1950w pull, 1307w output

14.0v - 2100w pull, 1407w output

15.0v - 2250w pull, 1508w output

16.0v - 2400w pull, 1608w output

17.0v - 2550w pull, 1709w output

18.0v - 2700w pull, 1809w output

19.0v - 2850w pull, 1910w output

To understand what was just posted above, Look at SURGE ratings!

If you are hooking up this sensor to an amp, make sure your amp is NOT RATED higher than what the surge rating is listed for based on the voltage. Otherwise, you may want to opt for our 200A sensor being the primary sensor.

If hooking up to an alternator charge cable, divide the number the cables being used by the maximum current output of the alternator. Only one of these cables run through the sensor. This number along with voltage listed above should be used for the CONTINUOUS chart.

Alt = continuous, Amp = surge.

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We will be manufacturing these devices with 200A DC sensors as a standard.

200A DC rms 300A DC peak. 1/0 cable capable.

Prices will NOT change to our customers.

Group Buy pricing will be posted before the end of the month.

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Very cool. Interested in seeing the pricing.

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This is a great product. And as a question about the AC/DC Voltage/Current locations, could you make some examples for us folks that wouldn't know which spots to wire the meter up to? For DC Voltage, I would say simply say the Positive terminal on the battery or wherever you can locate your typical 12V power source, like the wire on your cigarette lighter. For amperage, I would assume at the positive terminal at the battery as well? AC Voltage/Current has me a little confused. The only place I can think of are the positive and negative speaker terminals on an amplifier but then again I'm a novice at this stuff.

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You are correct!

The sensor pictured above is what the DC and AC sensor look like. There 2 of them per package.

When the wire goes through the sensor, it's monitoringprotecting current and voltage.

It's kinda pointless to protect too much DC current so we focus on low dc voltage protection, ac high voltage protection and ac high current protection.

You would wire the DC sensor in with an amp's power line or charging cable. Most people will run it in line with an amp of their choice.

The Ac sensor will run in line with 1 speaker terminal output. This will measure AC current and voltage.

With it setup like this, the user would then set thresholds that the system is not to surpass. IF ti surpasses any, the unit will flash the value it was at which broke the threshold and will trip the entire system to alert the user of such problem.

AC high voltage protection can protect from excessive clipping, dirty output, etc...

AC high current protection can protect from excessive current being dumped into your speaker(s) causing the tinsel leads, coil, etc.. to overheat.

There are other factors involved which can cause these things to burn up without excessive power being the answer here... but i can assure you that if the current isn't tripped under those under conditions, the voltage sure will be.

We will have more info soon publicly. We are in the middle of revising the DC sensors to 200A standard and preparing mass production and then we can get more elaborate on the details.

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Wonderful! This seems like a great and straight forward product that I'm already interested. Although in your best interest, I wouldn't be surprised due to the fact that it's user adjustable that someone makes a mistake in their math of AC voltage output while setting their gains and makes the wrong level adjustments and fries their equipment. Then you get a nasty email claiming that your product didn't warn them as described. Dealing with that would be such a pain. I know almost everyone on this forum has had a previous build and knows what they're doing with their amps and speakers, but there's always that someone...

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Of course, correct again.

We will list recommendations and things to do to ensure your values are set properly.

We can explain why such values would be ideal, etc...

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Led Interface please. Blue/Red at least. =) Would add style too. Definitely get more buys as well. ;)

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Led Interface please. Blue/Red at least. =) Would add style too. Definitely get more buys as well. wink.png

Oh I agree with that. I'd imagine going from that kind of green to something like blue, orange or orange/red would be huge sellers and popular amongst folks. That's what the next poll should be on. Most requested color

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We have already talked about this before in another community and would require a whole new schematic and engineering for such.

In the future, that "may", a big maybe, as an option but not for this device.

The parts and engineering involved in this device are definitely not cheap mainly because it's something that is not readily available to the market in this form.

We are trying to keep cost down as much as possible without sacrificing what we strive for= Accuracy.

Other cosmetics, while do matter, would generally be disregarded to prevent huge cost increase.

I have personally seen "other" screens with other colors available and, in my own opinion, does not look professional I guess you can say.

It's slightly harder to read presented information in a quick, timely manner.

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