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textbook

clueless in orlando

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'lo, everybody.

im brand spanking new to car audio, but i'm about to take the first steps towards a new system. you'll have to excuse my ignorance

i was gonna wait 'til i could post outside this section to raise some questions... but i guess i'll just ask now and hopefully won't get flamed for asking in the wrong section lol.

i want to get:

Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D D-Class Mono Block 1 x 600 @ 4 OHMS, 1 x 1200 @ 2 OHMS, 1 x 1700 @ 1 OHM

Fi Q 12"

2x Kicker DS (or KS) 6.5

Pioneer DEH80-PRS

now, what i'm not sure about is if i should get the Q dual 1 or dual 2. i'm starting to understand the concept behind what this means, but my question is, if i get it dual 2 and run my amp at 1ohm, does that mean the sub is going to get the full 1700watts? is there no way to limit that? because the sub is 1500 rated and i would also like to run power to my door speakers (if that's necessary?).

i'm thinking maybe dual 1 would be better so i can run the sub at 1200w @ 2ohms and have 500 left over... is that how that works?

Edited by textbook

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:WELCOME: to the forum!

Be sure to ask plenty of questions. We'd rather see you spend your money right the first time!

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That's a nice combo, my buddy had the Fi Q 12" Dual 1 on the Hifonics BRZ1700 wired to 2 ohms, sounded clean! If you need an enclosure built or something installed, hit up Pipo at No Fear Car Audio. He's Team Ascendant Audio so he can get Fi stuff.

http://www.facebook.....fear.car.audiohttp://www.facebook.....fear.car.audio

Or Shaggy at Electronics Depot in Altamonte Springs, 407-657-1010.I do not know of any other places that have proven their work in the Orlando area.

Oh by the way, you can later get a second Dual 1 and wire it to a 1 ohm load on that amp.

Edited by reelfish92

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sweet, appreciate the contacts 'cause i was kind of sweating the enclosure and installation. i dont trust best buy or audio zone, don't know why.

now, if the brz1700 isn't four channel, would the 80-PRS put out enough power for the speakers to run optimally? and if that is the case, would it make more sense to get the BRZ1200 and run it at 1ohm? seems like overkill to get the 1700 to run it at 1200, especially if i cant capitalize on the extra wattage for my doors.

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If you want to see some of their work I will message you some links a little, obviously Pipo can and his guys can build, he does a 162db+ on music lol. Floridaspl.com is a good place to look too.

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sure thing, i was checking out the facebook page you linked to... looks like he builds some badass boxes. id love to have something customized and sleek

im also very confused by the rest of the options available for the Q12... fi's site used to have a section that explained all of the options available on their subs but since they re-did the site i haven't been able to find that page...

P Chamfer

High QTS

Spider

I Heat Ring

Internal Lead

i am at a loss as to whether i'd need these options or not

Edited by textbook

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:WELCOME:

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If you are getting an Fi 12" on 1200 watts plus, you will most definitely want to amp your front stage so it can at least try to keep up with your sub stage. You can keep it simple and buy a component set and run a single 2 channel amp.

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Get the 1700 for your sub, and a second amp for your doors speakers. You don't need such a high end head unit, but why not, it's not too expensive !

Welcome, and spend some times reading here before you pull the trigger on anything ! Take your time.

Take a look at the SSA drivers too.

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:WELCOME:

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:WELCOME:

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Just an fyi, the Pioneer DEH-80PRS can be bought for less than internet pricing through AVE in Clearwater, FL. Full warranty, etc. Check and see if he'd ship. I just put one in last Friday, and it made all the difference.

http://www.avecarstereo.com/

http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/eld/3262999723.html

Edited by reelfish92

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WELCOME.gif good driver choice ,but also take a look at the icon.

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