What do I need to run a 3000watt amp

[DubstepSanta 0]

I recently bought a 3000 watt audio pip class d mono amp and running it for less then 45mins destroyed my stock alternator. i currently have a 130amp alternator two normal car batteries one in front and in the trunk. every thing hooked up with cheap 0 gauge wire (its not ofc), and i don't have a big3 upgrade. clearly i need to do something before i hook my amp back up. i was thinking either a big3 and big xs battery like a 4k watt one, or a high output alt and a big3, or something. What would you guys suggest? Thanks in advance for any replies

i dont know if it makes a differnce but i plan on running either a ssa zcon or a sundown z series 15 in a home built 3cubic feet (after port displacement)box

Edited September 27, 2012 by DubstepSanta

[SMpaintball78 58]

im runnning a sundown 3k on a 250amp alt, big 3, optima red top under hood, 2 runs of xs flex 0 gauge wire to the back and 2 c&d 270fr batters in back. i never drop below 13.4V which IMO is damn good. i used to run a audioque 3500.1 at .5 ohm (4200watts or so) and the lowest i dropped to was 13.1V so IMO, id say a big alt, big 3 and a few xs batts. xs batts are GREAT if u can afford them. the c&ds are a good second option if cash is tight. good luck with system!!!

[Warrior54 0]

first off, bad choicee with the 3000 audio pipe. you are better off getting two ap1500s instead! because the ap3000 is basically two ap1500s put together and is very unstable, and they are very common to break or overheat! But 3000 is waaayyyy to much for even two regular car batteries. You are gonna need an upgraded front one and rear one.(xs power, kinetic) good choices. and yes yes yes on the big 3, you HAVE to get big 3, they may have been why your alternator broke. 130 amp alternator should be fine for 3000 watt amp with big 3 and maybe some better 0awg wiring because that is what i have. And with your 15" subwoofer, you might want to go with 4 or even 5 cubes on the box, just a suggestion though.

[Impious 1,476]

Simplest solution is to sell your amplifier and run one half the size. You don't need 3kw for daily use, especially if you plan on using a single subwoofer.

[Sencheezy 689]

I would suggest doing all of the ideas you stated before.

big 3, more batts, and h/o alt, with some 2/0 welding cable.

[On3Hundr3dProof 19]

id say a 250a alt big 3 2 run 0ga to back and 1 d3400 up front 2 d1200 in back

[DubstepSanta 0]

Thanks for the replies and i know that audiopipe amps arnt the best but i got it almost new for $200 and i know that a 15 should have a bigger box but with my trunk the box i have is the biggest i can get in it without taking out my seat cause the opening will only allow a 12inch deep (depth) box =( and i dont know if its possible but if i can avoid getting the high output alt it would be nice. I plan on buying a nicer car next spring before college, and dont want to get stuck with an alt that wont fit in the new car.

Edited September 27, 2012 by DubstepSanta

[Warrior54 0]

Thanks for the replies and i know that audiopipe amps arnt the best but i got it almost new for $200 and i know that a 15 should have a bigger box but with my trunk the box i have is the biggest i can get in it without taking out my seat cause the opening will only allow a 12inch deep (depth) box =( and i dont know if its possible but if i can avoid getting the high output alt it would be nice. I plan on buying a nicer car next spring before college, and dont want to get stuck with an alt that wont fit in the new car.

Audiopipes are actually very good amps for the pricee! but only the ap1800 and down. the 3000 is just one of there "mess up" products. i have an ap1500 and i love it

[SS Teacher 177]

A 12" sub in a good box is better than a 15" in a crappy box. If you're planning on getting a new car in a few months you probably need to rethink your goals.

[A.SMALL 17]

If you’re burning alternators up in 45 minutes and the alt wasn’t on it’s last legs then I’m pretty sure it was because of your install and user error.

Did you have a volt meter installed?

Running that much power without an H/O alternator and a good battery reserve is not something I would recommend to you.

I had an AP3000 in my 2006 Galant, Stock 120 alt, Duralast Gold up front, Big 3 done in 4 gauge, and one run of 0 gauge kicker hyperflex ran to the back. On the regular I ran the amp bridged at 4 ohms and had voltage drop into the low 12’s . Of course I could get it to drop lower if I turned up the gain and bass boost but I knew better than that. I have also ran it bridged at 2ohms for about a month on the same electrical and of course voltage drop was hideous IF I RAN IT FULL TILT, but I KNEW ENOUGH to not let it drop too low.

I installed another AP3000 in my cousins jeep Cherokee almost 3 years ago and he finally upgraded subs that can take all of the power (Kicker CVX’s) in April. Stock Alt, Durlast Battery up front, and 1 positive run of 0 gauge kicker hyperflex to a Kinetic HC2400 in the rear. We set the gains by ear while keeping an eye on voltage drop and he never drops below 12 volts.

If you don't want to pay for a h/o alt and everything else needed to properly support that amp then don't try to run it at full power. Instead use one channel and wire down to 1 ohm, that'll give you 1500 which is plenty for daily. When you get into running larger amps you need to really understand how the whole system works together and it’s limitations or you will damage your equipment and possibly your vehicle.

first off, bad choicee with the 3000 audio pipe. you are better off getting two ap1500s instead! because the ap3000 is basically two ap1500s put together and is very unstable, and they are very common to break or overheat! But 3000 is waaayyyy to much for even two regular car batteries. You are gonna need an upgraded front one and rear one.(xs power, kinetic) good choices. and yes yes yes on the big 3, you HAVE to get big 3, they may have been why your alternator broke. 130 amp alternator should be fine for 3000 watt amp with big 3 and maybe some better 0awg wiring because that is what i have. And with your 15" subwoofer, you might want to go with 4 or even 5 cubes on the box, just a suggestion though.

Audiopipes are actually very good amps for the pricee! but only the ap1800 and down. the 3000 is just one of there "mess up" products. i have an ap1500 and i love it

The AP3K is not a bad choice when compared to two 1500's. 9 times out of 10 if someone is having problems with "stability" or "overheating" it isn't the amp at fault but the user and their install. I've had two AP3K's for about 4 years and they have been nothing short of "Reliable" , "Stable not Unstable", "Cool Running not Overheating", "Together no Broken", except for when my cousin rolled his truck and broke the legs off of one of them but it still works flawlessly.

Every amplifier as well as other equipment has it's limits and just because you or others try to surpass those limits or are ignorant to what they are don't blame the amp.

Edited September 27, 2012 by BREEZE919

[Warrior54 0]

If you’re burning alternators up in 45 minutes and the alt wasn’t on it’s last legs then I’m pretty sure it was because of your install and user error.

Did you have a volt meter installed?

Running that much power without an H/O alternator and a good battery reserve is not something I would recommend to you.

I had an AP3000 in my 2006 Galant, Stock 120 alt, Duralast Gold up front, Big 3 done in 4 gauge, and one run of 0 gauge kicker hyperflex ran to the back. On the regular I ran the amp bridged at 4 ohms and had voltage drop into the low 12’s . Of course I could get it to drop lower if I turned up the gain and bass boost but I knew better than that. I have also ran it bridged at 2ohms for about a month on the same electrical and of course voltage drop was hideous IF I RAN IT FULL TILT, but I KNEW ENOUGH to not let it drop too low.

I installed another AP3000 in my cousins jeep Cherokee almost 3 years ago and he finally upgraded subs that can take all of the power (Kicker CVX’s) in April. Stock Alt, Durlast Battery up front, and 1 positive run of 0 gauge kicker hyperflex to a Kinetic HC2400 in the rear. We set the gains by ear while keeping an eye on voltage drop and he never drops below 12 volts.

If you don't want to pay for a h/o alt and everything else needed to properly support that amp then don't try to run it at full power. Instead use one channel and wire down to 1 ohm, that'll give you 1500 which is plenty for daily. When you get into running larger amps you need to really understand how the whole system works together and it’s limitations or you will damage your equipment and possibly your vehicle.

first off, bad choicee with the 3000 audio pipe. you are better off getting two ap1500s instead! because the ap3000 is basically two ap1500s put together and is very unstable, and they are very common to break or overheat! But 3000 is waaayyyy to much for even two regular car batteries. You are gonna need an upgraded front one and rear one.(xs power, kinetic) good choices. and yes yes yes on the big 3, you HAVE to get big 3, they may have been why your alternator broke. 130 amp alternator should be fine for 3000 watt amp with big 3 and maybe some better 0awg wiring because that is what i have. And with your 15" subwoofer, you might want to go with 4 or even 5 cubes on the box, just a suggestion though.

Audiopipes are actually very good amps for the pricee! but only the ap1800 and down. the 3000 is just one of there "mess up" products. i have an ap1500 and i love it

The AP3K is not a bad choice when compared to two 1500's. 9 times out of 10 if someone is having problems with "stability" or "overheating" it isn't the amp at fault but the user and their install. I've had two AP3K's for about 4 years and they have been nothing short of "Reliable" , "Stable not Unstable", "Cool Running not Overheating", "Together no Broken", except for when my cousin rolled his truck and broke the legs off of one of them but it still works flawlessly.

Every amplifier as well as other equipment has it's limits and just because you or others try to surpass those limits or are ignorant to what they are don't blame the amp.

Well, congratulations with that. hahaha, every one that ive heard of has broke. Maybe its because im from the midwest nd the temperature changes? who knows, i just know that the 3000 arnt "that stable" but im glad they working for you. But other than that, i have no idea.. hahaha

[Austin863 87]

Thanks for the replies and i know that audiopipe amps arnt the best but i got it almost new for $200 and i know that a 15 should have a bigger box but with my trunk the box i have is the biggest i can get in it without taking out my seat cause the opening will only allow a 12inch deep (depth) box =( and i dont know if its possible but if i can avoid getting the high output alt it would be nice. I plan on buying a nicer car next spring before college, and dont want to get stuck with an alt that wont fit in the new car.

i am running an audiopipe ap1500.1d not only is the 2 1500w's a more stable choice but its also cheaper. i run ap1500 on my 15 in gcon and boy that baby rocks. if your only getting 1 15 id say sell the 3000 and get a 1500. 1/0 cable or 0awg. big three and 2 nice battery's remember the more AH (amp hours) the more reserve. in other words less voltage drop. double fuse in between batterys aswell. i am running 2 ngt extreme platinums they are 55 ah a peice so 110 and my voltage barely drops. just a few suggestions from what ive learned

[A.SMALL 17]

Well, congratulations with that. hahaha, every one that ive heard of has broke. Maybe its because im from the midwest nd the temperature changes? who knows, i just know that the 3000 arnt "that stable" but im glad they working for you. But other than that, i have no idea.. hahaha

i am running an audiopipe ap1500.1d not only is the 2 1500w's a more stable choice but its also cheaper. i run ap1500 on my 15 in gcon and boy that baby rocks. if your only getting 1 15 id say sell the 3000 and get a 1500. 1/0 cable or 0awg. big three and 2 nice battery's remember the more AH (amp hours) the more reserve. in other words less voltage drop. double fuse in between batterys aswell. i am running 2 ngt extreme platinums they are 55 ah a peice so 110 and my voltage barely drops. just a few suggestions from what ive learned

lol , I don't know where you guys are getting that two 1500's are more stable. Not trying to be a prick just curious because this hasn't been the case in my installs. What kind of test have you done or what experiences have you had that proves/makes you guys say this???

I've either used or installed every mono amp in the AP line and a few others i know that own the AP3000 have never had issues with stability. Maybe you guys are meaning the 1500 can handle a lower ohm load like being wired to .5 better than the 3K which might be fact.

I never did an install that required we wire the 1500's lower than 1ohm, or the 3k's lower than 2ohms bridged for a daily setup there really isn't a point and it's not worth the risk. So with that said maybe the 1500's are more stable when wired lower than they are meant to be, but out of 7 different AP's i've never had issues with stability with either. Maybe I am just lucky though lol.

Edited September 28, 2012 by BREEZE919

[frogcase2002 393]

Well, congratulations with that. hahaha, every one that ive heard of has broke. Maybe its because im from the midwest nd the temperature changes? who knows, i just know that the 3000 arnt "that stable" but im glad they working for you. But other than that, i have no idea.. hahaha

i am running an audiopipe ap1500.1d not only is the 2 1500w's a more stable choice but its also cheaper. i run ap1500 on my 15 in gcon and boy that baby rocks. if your only getting 1 15 id say sell the 3000 and get a 1500. 1/0 cable or 0awg. big three and 2 nice battery's remember the more AH (amp hours) the more reserve. in other words less voltage drop. double fuse in between batterys aswell. i am running 2 ngt extreme platinums they are 55 ah a peice so 110 and my voltage barely drops. just a few suggestions from what ive learned

lol , I don't know where you guys are getting that two 1500's are more stable. Not trying to be a prick just curious because this hasn't been the case in my installs. What kind of test have you done or what experiences have you had that proves/makes you guys say this???

I've either used or installed every mono amp in the AP line and a few others i know that own the AP3000 have never had issues with stability. Maybe you guys are meaning the 1500 can handle a lower ohm load like being wired to .5 better than the 3K which might be fact.

I never did an install that required we wire the 1500's lower than 1ohm, or the 3k's lower than 2ohms bridged for a daily setup there really isn't a point and it's not worth the risk. So with that said maybe the 1500's are more stable when wired lower than they are meant to be, but out of 7 different AP's i've never had issues with stability with either. Maybe I am just lucky though lol.

yea i have had 3 different ap3000s and there was never a problem at all, dont know why people talk so much shit,, i have mine on my zcon 15 and its crazy loud, im sure its the install when people have the 3000s mess up,, i wouldnt get the zcon if you only have 3cf

[///M5 2,833]

Simplest solution is to sell your amplifier and run one half the size. You don't need 3kw for daily use, especially if you plan on using a single subwoofer.

By far the best bit of advice in this thread.

I'd add to it to sell your sub and buy one that will actually perform in the box size that you have.

And YES it will be louder and cost less.

[///M5 2,833]

And more importantly, to answer your topic title:

What do I need to run a 3000watt amp

A need for one. You don't. Yields the same answer as above.