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do I have the SAZ-1500 original or V2?

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I bought the SSA XCON 15D2 + SUNDOWN SAZ-1500D COMBO last year and in my receipt I got to the e-mail that's all it says, it doesn't say if it's the V2 or not. I'm supposed to go to an installer on Monday to get it wired properly as my last installers didn't do it correctly and he just called me and asked if it's the V2 or not since on the V2 you can connect 0 guage to it and he'll have to pick it up in the morning from his warehouse if I need it. I don't know which one it is, and it's installed in my suv and it's installed in the jack compartment so I can't easily get to it, the only end I can see is where the speaker wires connect to. I guess there isn't a way for me to tell from this side which version it is? Any other way I can know? I don't think I have the instruction manual around either. If I bought it in 2010 does that indicate that it should be a V2? I bought it of SSA's website, brand new it was the package/combo.

Thanks

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pics is the easiest way, its a heatsink revision

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also i belive the V1 the 1500 was only printed on the amp one way, and the V2 was double printed on both sides of the amp, so you could flip the sundown plate and mount it either way and it would read correctly,. so look for the 1500 printed once or twice

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also i belive the V1 the 1500 was only printed on the amp one way, and the V2 was double printed on both sides of the amp, so you could flip the sundown plate and mount it either way and it would read correctly,. so look for the 1500 printed once or twice

THANKS! I have the V2 then, I just went and checked it and the 1500 was printed on both corners. I also checked Google Images and confirmed that the old one only has it printed one corner.

Thanks again!

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If I was you I would tell this installer to simply use 1/0 and if he has to just reduce it down to 4awg! There is no harm in over kill hell it is 1500watts! around 125amps.

one more question how does one hook up an amp incorrectly?

Positive

Negative

REM

speaker

RCA

optional: gain knob.

if you reverse the positive and negative you could hurt the amp

if you hook up the speaker wrong it doesn't matter

If you hook the RCA upbackwards it doens't matter because this is a mono channel amp

you can't hook up the gain knob wrong

This leaves the remote which is a simple 12v signal sent from your h/u to tell the amp to turn on

Edited by CrazyKenKid

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I'm not sure what 1/0 means sorry I'm not too good at this stuff that's why I have an installer doing it but, he said he was going to use R0 i think is what he said? I think I asked him if that means 0 guage and he said he calls it R0 (if i remember correctly). Anyway he knows what he's doing, he's won competitions, done demo cars for kicker, is a sundown dealer, his own demo car has a 30k watt system, so I trust whatever he's doing he can handle whatever I have.

Well I'll just tell you briefly what the first installers did wrong, it's not necessarily in the actual connecting of the wires etc. it's they had never heard of sundown and i guess they didn't read the manual or anything, they connected the amp to an 80amp fuse and it kept blowing when I would turn the volume up. They tried to tell me it's the amp and get me to buy another amp. I had also initially asked them if they needed to install a 2nd battery, they were saying no, not needed. I was surprised but, whatever. Well, when the fuse kept blowing they told me it's the amp. So, I was ready to replace the amp. Then I started researching and posting on forums to find out what the problem is and why the fuse is blowing because I figured if I get another amp then what if the same issue happens? because sundown is a reputable brand and people speak highly of them so I was disappointed at what was going on.

I was told that it needs a bigger fuse, 150 ANL. Plus, I think they hooked it all up to 4 guage. Everybody told me it should be 1/0 like you said. Well, my new installer because of his experience understands all these things, and he is suggesting to do 0R (0 guage) he thinks it will be better and more efficient. I want to get the most out of this amp that I can.

Lastly, to top it off the previous installers when I asked them what amp i should get, they recommended to me R1200 - rockford fosgate PRIME lol

now you know why i needed to find a new installer?

If I was you I would tell this installer to simply use 1/0 and if he has to just reduce it down to 4awg! There is no harm in over kill hell it is 1500watts! around 125amps.

one more question how does one hook up an amp incorrectly?

Positive

Negative

REM

speaker

RCA

optional: gain knob.

if you reverse the positive and negative you could hurt the amp

if you hook up the speaker wrong it doesn't matter

If you hook the RCA upbackwards it doens't matter because this is a mono channel amp

you can't hook up the gain knob wrong

This leaves the remote which is a simple 12v signal sent from your h/u to tell the amp to turn on

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IMO there is four versions.

V1 = The first one with one side printed with the model number.

V1.5 = Same amp with new heat sink design and model numbers on both sides.

V2 = New board design, 1.6" shorther the V1 and V1.5, and no internal fuses.

V3 = The newest one coming out right now.

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Sounds good! I am glad you found a better installer! The first installer almost sounds like a salesman who pries on people with less knowledge! Nice job on the reseach and not listening to the first installer!

Like I said above 1500watts at 12vdc= around 125amps. so this makes sense that the 80amp fuse kept popping! :)

I know KNU 4 gauge is rated for ~150amp so depending on the wire used and it capacity the first installer could have simply installed a bigger fuse and called it even! O well he was shady!

and yes running R0 (1/0awg as I like to call it) is a much better idea and will help out in the future if you ever decide to upgrade. If the capacity of R0 = 300amps this means that wire can handle around 3500watts! So bring on the future! But also running that much power will require another battery for sure and maybe a bigger alt depending on your current alt!

The new installer you are using what is his name. and does he have a build log for our viewing pleasure>?

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Yes because of his experience he's aware of the electrical upgrades and we already discussed some of those possibilities, for sure the stock battery will be upgraded, and second battery. Then we'll see if we need the alt or not but, he's like a one-man shop for competition systems, or else in the beginning I was lost I thought I had to get an alt myself from somewhere else, would I get the right one?, then find an installer that would do it, or do I go to a mechanic? lol had so many questions but, now everything will hopefully go smoothly.

he just linked me to his website (some still under construction) but, you can see this page - http://www.cca.lejdesigns.com/index.php/team-cayenne and see what the systems can do from his youtube videos

i dont know if he's going to have a build log for this particular build. i don't know is that something that's common? i can ask him i suppose. his name is Chad and his company name is "Cayenne Car Audio" in Texas (Dallas area).

Sounds good! I am glad you found a better installer! The first installer almost sounds like a salesman who pries on people with less knowledge! Nice job on the reseach and not listening to the first installer!

Like I said above 1500watts at 12vdc= around 125amps. so this makes sense that the 80amp fuse kept popping! smile.png

I know KNU 4 gauge is rated for ~150amp so depending on the wire used and it capacity the first installer could have simply installed a bigger fuse and called it even! O well he was shady!

and yes running R0 (1/0awg as I like to call it) is a much better idea and will help out in the future if you ever decide to upgrade. If the capacity of R0 = 300amps this means that wire can handle around 3500watts! So bring on the future! But also running that much power will require another battery for sure and maybe a bigger alt depending on your current alt!

The new installer you are using what is his name. and does he have a build log for our viewing pleasure>?

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Ok, I just checked it again. There's some kind of message that says, "Caution this amp is not supplied with an internal fuse, you must use an external fuse" says something like that, so it means there's no internal fuse which means it's V2!

IMO there is four versions.

V1 = The first one with one side printed with the model number.

V1.5 = Same amp with new heat sink design and model numbers on both sides.

V2 = New board design, 1.6" shorther the V1 and V1.5, and no internal fuses.

V3 = The newest one coming out right now.

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high 150s with SMDs

looks legit

What?

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high 150s with SMDs

looks legit

What?

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Looks like he is referring to the link!

high 150s with SMDs

looks legit

What?

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Sort of related, but not entirely...I'll just ask it here.

With the SAZ-1500D v.3 coming out, I have been seeing a lot of the v.2's and some v.1's for sale. Is there any reason not to pick up one of these earlier models at the lower prices? (Looks like they are ~$300 shipped)

Edited by Dave88LX

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Looks like he is referring to the link!

high 150s with SMDs

looks legit

What?

150s what? dbs or watts?

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