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ELDeFontes

Clarify Fi Q 12" Ported Options!

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Just to clarify. I'm looking to run the 12" in a ported enclosure. Also I'd like mostly SQ so if anyone would elaborate, i've heared sealed is more SQ ported is louder. I like louder but I've heard ported can get the SQ with loudness.

Dual 2 Ohm

Cooling: Yes

p chamfer: yes

high qts: no

spider: no

I heat ring: no

internal lead: ??

Thanks ya'll

Powered by PA-1500 - Nakamichi 1 Ch 1200 Watt Power Amplifier

Edited by ELDeFontes

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What have you heard in the past and liked?

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Well let me start off with...this is my first system ever. I've been reading and talking to helpful forum members on many forums and have put together my own research and have decided to use ported. Using WinISD, with the specifications it also says ported is the way to go. Unfortunately I do not know how to operate WinISD too well so I havent gone farther than that. What I've heard is laughable. Prelude with Alpine Type R 12 and some infinity components and 6x8s i think? Maybe 6x9. The nicest I've heard was my friends evo, but he didnt turn it loud, it was just clear as hell. All i know was that he was running a JL 10W3 i'm pretty sure but he did alot of work to the engine as well as speakers so I'm sure it wasnt terrible.

EDIT: Almost positive that these are all sealed enclosures.

Edited by ELDeFontes

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Well let me start off with...this is my first system ever. I've been reading and talking to helpful forum members on many forums and have put together my own research and have decided to use ported. Using WinISD, with the specifications it also says ported is the way to go. Unfortunately I do not know how to operate WinISD too well so I havent gone farther than that. What I've heard is laughable. Prelude with Alpine Type R 12 and some infinity components and 6x8s i think? Maybe 6x9. The nicest I've heard was my friends evo, but he didnt turn it loud, it was just clear as hell. All i know was that he was running a JL 10W3 i'm pretty sure but he did alot of work to the engine as well as speakers so I'm sure it wasnt terrible.

It probably sounded better because it wasn't as loud. Sq and spl don't mix, once you reach a certain level of output Sq kind of goes out the window.

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Right so the Fi Q is the SQ sub of the Fi series and I'm only putting 1200 to it, which is below recommended. Also this is going to be in a honda accord 2003 trunk

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There are free designs on the Fi section. They should please you.

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I'm not looking for designs quite yet but thanks for pointing me in that direction. I'm looking for someone to clarify my options in the first post... If I'm looking to port the Q12, would those be the options to choose? If I'm not choosing High QTS is it automatically Low QTS? From reading the options descriptions it says that the I heat ring would not be an option with low QTS picked. And I don't see where internal leads description is.

Dual 2 Ohm

Cooling: Yes

p chamfer: yes

high qts: no

spider: no

I heat ring: no

internal lead: ??

I'm also really new at putting a system together so I don't even know what would sound good in my car. I am adding CXS62 V2 - Image Dynamics 6.5" + FREE ARC FD2100 Amp Combo to a 2003 Accord with

Alpine CDA-105

I was told to remove my rear deck Infinity Ref 9623i 6x9's when I get the Fi Q 12" as it will distort them to uselessness.

Comments and suggestions are great but if I could get an answer to my first question, it'd be great.

Edited by ELDeFontes

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From the Q12 information page:

Sealed box: .8-1.5 High QTScuft

Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 28-33Hz

The high QTS option is recommended for sealed enclosures.

I will almost always recommend a properly designed and built ported enclosure if the space permits.Either enclosure can have excellent SQ.

The amp you chose will work fine for either enclosure choice.

Removing the speakers from the rear deck can do a couple things for you. It can allow more bass from the trunk to get into the car. It will eliminate the potential for over excursion and possible damage of the rear deck speakers. If you want to retain the speakers in the rear deck, you can buy/build a sealed back for them. Another option is firing the port and driver through the ski pass area and sealing the trunk from the cabin. This will allow you to keep the rear deck speakers with a decreased likelihood of damage.

"If I'm not choosing High QTS is it automatically Low QTS? From reading the options descriptions it says that the I heat ring would not be an option with low QTS picked. And I don't see where internal leads description is."

If you do not choose a sealed alignment, do not add the high QTS. The listed (Qts: .37) is the QTS measurement without the high QTS option. You are correct about the "heat ring", (inductance control). It is not an option without first choosing the high QTS option. If you want sewn in leads make sure you communicate that when you order. It is my understanding that this can be done. Understand the limitations between internal (sewn) and external (non-sewn) leads. They each have their own inherent issues.

Back to your first question though, Do you plan on building your own enclosure? ie. do you have the tools necessary to do so? there are recommended designs available here:http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/ There are several designers here that can design you an enclosure once you choose the direction you want to go. You can order just plans and in some cases they will build it for you.

Chris

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As for the front stage, that is the most difficult question to answer. "What sounds good". I recommend you try and duplicate something you heard and liked. Someone may love the ID speakers you posted and you may not like them at all. I suggest you listen to as many set ups as you can to determine what you like before buying. Subs are easy to recommend. They usually don't do much below ~20Hz and above ~100. Components are actually the hard part because everyone has different expectations and hearing limitations.

When I clicked on the HU you linked, I got this message.

"Sorry, the Alpine CDA-105 is no longer available for purchase"

Chris

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I will be building my own enclosure. I personally do not have the tools but I have many places I can go to use them and have expert carpenters with me.

As far as "Not being an option". They are all available, nothing is greyed out or anything so someone could really mess up if they arent careful.

The only place I can go to listen to "setups" is Best Buy or some shop owned by a dope fiend with Alpines all over so I'm kind of shit out of luck and going for internet opinions.

For the Alpine CDA-105, I already have it, it's not something I'm looking to purchase.

Is what I'm asking difficult? I'm looking for someone to FILL THE OPTIONS IN FOR ME. SINCE IM GOING PORTED I OBVIOUSLY DO NOT WANT HIGH QTS, NO EXTRA SPIDER (I'm looking for SQ and read that adding the extra spider reduces that), I DO NOT WANT THE I HEAT RING (Because since I'm not choosing HIGH QTS It automatically becomes Low QTS?) What is internal lead?

Dual 2 Ohm

Cooling: Yes

p chamfer: yes

high qts: no

spider: no

I heat ring: no

internal lead: ??

Once someone can clarify this then I'll be glad to move on to enclosure builds. I'm basing that the Fi Q 12" will be better in a ported enclosure by punching in the numbers provided into WinISD. If someone would like to teach me how to use WinISD maybe I'm doing it wrong? But I havent gotten to far, just punched in the numbers and it came up with vented enclosure.

Edited by ELDeFontes

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There isn't even an option for Low QTS on any of the subs.

It's high or regular QTS. The regular is referred to as low several times though.

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I will be building my own enclosure. I personally do not have the tools but I have many places I can go to use them and have expert carpenters with me.

As far as "Not being an option". They are all available, nothing is greyed out or anything so someone could really mess up if they arent careful.

The only place I can go to listen to "setups" is Best Buy or some shop owned by a dope fiend with Alpines all over so I'm kind of shit out of luck and going for internet opinions.

For the Alpine CDA-105, I already have it, it's not something I'm looking to purchase.

Is what I'm asking difficult? I'm looking for someone to FILL THE OPTIONS IN FOR ME. SINCE IM GOING PORTED I OBVIOUSLY DO NOT WANT HIGH QTS, NO EXTRA SPIDER (I'm looking for SQ and read that adding the extra spider reduces that), I DO NOT WANT THE I HEAT RING (Because since I'm not choosing HIGH QTS It automatically becomes Low QTS?) What is internal lead?

Dual 2 Ohm

Cooling: Yes

p chamfer: yes

high qts: no

spider: no

I heat ring: no

internal lead: ??

Once someone can clarify this then I'll be glad to move on to enclosure builds. I'm basing that the Fi Q 12" will be better in a ported enclosure by punching in the numbers provided into WinISD. If someone would like to teach me how to use WinISD maybe I'm doing it wrong? But I havent gotten to far, just punched in the numbers and it came up with vented enclosure.

I am going to try and assume you are not trying to be a douchebag. All the posts above are attempts to best answer your questions. If you want to act like that, there is always ca.com. I am referring specifically to your comment I made bold above in the event you are curious.

An internal lead is one that is sewn into the spider as opposed to being free floating between the terminal and contact point on the coil.

Chris

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I am not trying to be a douchebag but nobody answered my question until now. I've been on many forums and the lack of help is disappointing. I'm just struggling to build this system.

An internal lead is one that is sewn into the spider as opposed to being free floating between the terminal and contact point on the coil.

I had to google "Internal Lead" to find out what it really is. Now that I know that, the Internal Lead Option means what you said.

"An Internal Lead means the Tinsel Leads are sandwiched between the spiders rather than tacked to the top of them for better durability and performance."

Dual 2 Ohm

Cooling: Yes

p chamfer: yes

high qts: no

spider: no

I heat ring: no

internal lead: YES

Thanks for helping me complete my options for my Q12. Please fix the website so that when "High QTS : No" is selected that "I heat ring" is greyed out.

Where does it say "Normal QTS = Low QTS"?

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Another issue I'm reading...

"Triple progressive spiders keep the incredible linear excursion of this sub under control"

Dual 1 and Dual 2 Ohm

Cast basket

Wrap around gasket

Kraft pulp fiber reinforced cone

Single layer wide foam surround

Push terminals

Extra heavy lead wire

FEA optimized motor

3" diameter 4 layer coil

Single high grade magnet

Quad progressive spiders - ??

High or low Qts motors

Optional Heli-cool system

And many other custom options

Which is it

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So tell me again why I'm buying a product from a company who can't accurately describe their product, nor accurately describe their options for them or even put them on the "Options Explained" sticky. I don't think you can be blaming misprints when this company is so bent on quality. I'm pretty sure their buyers want to know if its a triple or quad. Not have to fish for an answer

Internal Lead isn't explained. I had to watch the video to figure out everything, why do I have to sit through a 5 minute video when I can read it in 30 seconds? On top of that, my headset broke for my computer so I had to watch it somewhere else. Even more tedious work for the already tediousness of building a system that I'm learning about as I do it.

Again, I'm not trying to sound like a douchebag but maybe if someone would like to message me via PM so I can get all of my questions across, situated and confirmed I think this would go over better.

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So tell me again why I'm buying a product from a company who can't accurately describe their product, nor accurately describe their options for them or even put them on the "Options Explained" sticky. I don't think you can be blaming misprints when this company is so bent on quality. I'm pretty sure their buyers want to know if its a triple or quad. Not have to fish for an answer

Internal Lead isn't explained. I had to watch the video to figure out everything, why do I have to sit through a 5 minute video when I can read it in 30 seconds? On top of that, my headset broke for my computer so I had to watch it somewhere else. Even more tedious work for the already tediousness of building a system that I'm learning about as I do it.

Again, I'm not trying to sound like a douchebag but maybe if someone would like to message me via PM so I can get all of my questions across, situated and confirmed I think this would go over better.

Ohhhhh myyyy gawd.

God forbid you should have to do some research before purchasing a product...if you want to be spoonfed then go to a brick and mortar shop and have them explain to you why their product is the best.

I don't mean to sound like an asshat but it sounds like you want the people at Fi (or the people on the forums) to build your system for you step by step while all you do is blindly hit the "buy" button. Nobody can tell you what a system that hasn't been installed yet sounds like. If it bothers you that Fi doesn't explain every single detail about their subs (which would be hard, because they constantly change small things about their woofers) then buy something else. Have some initiative lol.

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Don't even buy the Q..... just buy the single 12'' ssd and put it in a respectable ported box im sure you will be happy. i have 2 12'' q's in a ported enclosure theyre loud, with little sq.

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I'm probably going to get the ICON. Presents well in sealed since I'm now leaning more towards a sealed enclosure.

Edited by ELDeFontes

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